Structural Engineer anyone?

K2Kraze

K2Kraze

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anyone available in the forum that can answer a 2nd floor table installation question or two from a Structural Engineer viewpoint? We are building a custom home working directly with the architect and builder, and would greatly appreciate some insight as to what we need to be looking for on our framing plans, etc to make sure it is done properly with no surprises later. Or is everyone going to recommend getting my own local SE in the Fort Worth, TX area to review the plans with us?

BTW, both the architect and builder know we are planning a 9' table in the gameroom - we just want to verify that what they think is structurally sound, is indeed structurally sound - and since neither is a Structural Engineer (SE), we thought we'd solicit the forum and see what information can help us with the "trust, but verify" plan :)

Thanks everyone!
 
I went thru a home design in 1988 and was the GC. The firm that drew my building plans incorporated adjustments for steel beams in the first floor system to preclude the use of support poles in the basement which allowed completely open space. Point being that they had to determine the correct size of steel beams to work with the rest of the building plan.

Your architect should be doing the same (has the knowledge or knows to consult with an engineer) in determining what is structurally sound for the 2nd floor system to support a 1000 lb pool table along with the number of humans and other furnishings that may also be putting a load on that space. Typically a floor system of 2X12, 16"OC is plenty adequate but that would depend on the length of floor span. A firm in your area that does custom house plans should be able to help with any questions if you have doubts.
 
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Thanks Dartman --- I will send the architect an email and see where he is on the load calculations and span plan, etc...
 
I read your other thread on this. Seemed like a lot of expensive and overkill type comments. For one, I've worked in residential construction and never heard of or did double flooring - single 3/4" T&G plywood, glued and nailed is standard for most any load. Strength comes from the joists, not the plywood. You might do well to go 12"OC under the area where the table will sit and then 16"OC for the rest of the room space. All the joists should be blocked too. Just a suggestion you could discuss the the person drawing the plans.
 
In residential construction the building code requires all romms other than sleeping rooms to be designed for a 40 pound per square foot load. A pool table takes up approximately 50 square feet which equates with 2000 pounds. The issue is a slight movement you will get with flex and by spacing the joists closer than that normally designed for living will stiffen it up a lot. Doubling the subfloor won't really make much difference. Be sure to glue and screw the subfloor down and putting blocking in between the joist help then to react together rather than moving separately. Be aware wood is susceptible to changes due to moisture and heat and will move some as it acclimates to the living conditions. This should stop after a while but you will most likely have to have the level adjusted at first for a while.
 
Could always redesign the plan for a lower level table. You'd be on concrete in a basement or could add extra floor siupport piers for a crawl space home.
 
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