Stuck router bits

[olsonsview]

I am using the common Porter Cable trim routers for cutting off, and slotting work like many cue makers here. I have a couple questions to pose that may help many of us:
How do we safely and easily remove router bits that seem frozen after removing the nut? This seems worse with 100% carbide bits. The collet seems to grip the bit and the cavity of the router quite securely and if the bit shank is straight and smooth there is nothing to grip to pry it out .
Is there any oil or wax that can be applied to the bit before installing it in the router to avoid the problem of it freezing?
Is there a source for collets to use bits smaller than the standard 1/4 inch supplied?
Thanks in advance to all!

 

[cutter]

That's a common problem with them. To be honest, I take a thick piece of leather, wrap it around the bit and then grab it with a pair of pliers and carefully wiggle it until it comes out. You can try some type of lubricant, but I think it may cause more problems than it is worth. I'd clean the taper really good, and the collet before putting it back together.
If you are trying to get a collet to use smaller bits for inlay work, I'd check out the runout in the bearings. Usually pretty sloppy, and will drive you nuts trying to do nice inlay work.

 

[Poulos Cues]

I am using the common Porter Cable trim routers for cutting off, and slotting work like many cue makers here. I have a couple questions to pose that may help many of us:
How do we safely and easily remove router bits that seem frozen after removing the nut? This seems worse with 100% carbide bits. The collet seems to grip the bit and the cavity of the router quite securely and if the bit shank is straight and smooth there is nothing to grip to pry it out .
Is there any oil or wax that can be applied to the bit before installing it in the router to avoid the problem of it freezing?
Is there a source for collets to use bits smaller than the standard 1/4 inch supplied?
Thanks in advance to all!

Probably not the best thing, but I use a soft mallet and tap the nut a few times and it slips right out.
Steve is correct too, clean everything real good before placing it back in. I would not use any lube....uh....I mean oil...and you don't have to reef on the thing to get it to stay in the router anyways...but I should'nt go there....
IMO of course.
Chris

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

I am using the common Porter Cable trim routers for cutting off, and slotting work like many cue makers here. I have a couple questions to pose that may help many of us:
How do we safely and easily remove router bits that seem frozen after removing the nut? This seems worse with 100% carbide bits. The collet seems to grip the bit and the cavity of the router quite securely and if the bit shank is straight and smooth there is nothing to grip to pry it out .
Is there any oil or wax that can be applied to the bit before installing it in the router to avoid the problem of it freezing?
Is there a source for collets to use bits smaller than the standard 1/4 inch supplied?
Thanks in advance to all!

When I was using the PC trimmers I used a product called "never seeze".
Just a Q tip and a very small dab to wipe on the inside of the collet housing and the outside of the collet seemed to help. Also I know it may not be good for the bearings but I had my best luck popping it loose by untightening the nut 3-4 turns and tapping on the side of the nut with the wrench I used to loosen it with. Always seemed to pop it loose. Put a green pad on the inside of the router while it was spinning to keep it clean.
I did see once an aftermarket collet that would hold 1/8" bits but never tried one because I switched over to a diff router set up.
Good luck........

 

[CamposCues]

1/8"

I did see once an aftermarket collet that would hold 1/8" bits but never tried one because I switched over to a diff router set up.
Good luck........

You don't happen to remember where you saw the aftermarket 1/8" collet do you? I'd like to have one.

 

[olsonsview]

collets

I do not use the PC router for general inlays, but I do use it for my ring work. I seem to get a nice fit with my materials, but the router I use is not worn much. I have other routers for shaft turning.
What router would be a better choice for close tolerance work? And are there an asst of collets avail? I like to use mill bits, and they come in many sizes.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

I do not use the PC router for general inlays, but I do use it for my ring work. I seem to get a nice fit with my materials, but the router I use is not worn much. I have other routers for shaft turning.
What router would be a better choice for close tolerance work? And are there an asst of collets avail? I like to use mill bits, and they come in many sizes.

I use a Kress. It is a designed "spindle" router. European construction and tighter tolerances than the PC lam. I do know you can get some different inch and mm collets for it but all I use is the 1/4" in mine.
If you have an old PC lam router laying around that is all done being used up. Take about ten minutes and open it up and look at the bearings, how they are housed and just the general inside construction of it. You'll have a better understanding of why they only charge $100 for a $20 router!!

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

You don't happen to remember where you saw the aftermarket 1/8" collet do you? I'd like to have one.

It was in my many travels through tool and wood stores. I'm sorry but I don't remember where I did see it.
It really wouldn't be that difficult to make one. If you have a tool shop close by take the 1/4" one over and have them do one with an 1/8" hole. A little ingenuity on your part and you could do one yourself out of some SS.
Good luck......

 

[Craig Fales]

What has happened is that the collet has jammed into the nut....a gently tap on the end of the bit from piece of wood will free it up....

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

What has happened is that the collet has jammed into the nut....a gently tap on the end of the bit from piece of wood will free it up....

Not necessarily...........my experience with them has always been the collet getting seized in the armature cavity.

 

[cueman]

You don't happen to remember where you saw the aftermarket 1/8" collet do you? I'd like to have one.

I sell the 1/8" collet to go in to the 1/4 collet for $10. Talk about ahrd to get out. The 1/4 is a breeze ompared to once you put a 1/8 collet inside it with a end mill in it. We have a pair of snips, kinda like dikes that the cutting part is on the end. We grab the large collet with that and squeeze it and get it out.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com

 

[rhncue]

Not necessarily...........my experience with them has always been the collet getting seized in the armature cavity.

That is normally where a collet sticks. The collet and female end of the router needs cleaned after each use with either lacquer thinner or oven cleaner. Carbide and even tool steel is so hard that to keep the bit from creeping or slipping the collet nut must be tightened extra hard. The bits still usually slip a little bit causing heat and often some resin from wood creeps into there locking everything tight. When I put in a bit, I bottom it in the holder and then raise it slightly so that when it comes time to remove I can smack the bit squarely on the end usually loosening the collet. Good routers or spindles often will have a device incorporated to loosen a collet but they can get expensive.

Dick

 

[olsonsview]

not always able to smack the end

I often use small single flute cutters for my ring slots. Like a 1/4 inch shank, 1/16 inch width of cut, single flute. A smack would snap off the carbide for sure. I did try the tapping on the nut While supporting the bottom of that nut with a large block of raw steel. It did work, though I question whether I am causing spindle harm in the long run here. I will try cleaning the armature cavity, because yes, that is always where the collet freezes, never in the nut. I never install a bit all the way to the bottom of the hole, I leave it out maybe 1/8 inch or so, so that is not the cause of the problem. I have tried using a scrap of leather, and pliers from day one when removing stuck bits, but a smooth carbide shank just slides so easily in the leather that I never was able to grip it at all. I do not have this problem so much with HSS shank bits with brazed carbide cutting surfaces. And any larger cutter head provides a ledge to easily pry the bit loose by using pliers, with the nut loose but available to push against. I do like the idea of using a modified pair of side cutters. I think a round groove in the jaws with a taper to match the collet may make it easy to grip the collet by the 3/32 or so that protrudes from the amarmature and pop it free by prying the diagonal cutter jaw edge against the armature edge, it just may be the answer. I have an old pair of Dikes I will machine to see if the idea works! Thanks for the free idea exchange here guys, it certainly helps to hear the varied responses! Any other ideas are still welcome.

 

[cuejoey]

I am using the common Porter Cable trim routers for cutting off, and slotting work like many cue makers here. I have a couple questions to pose that may help many of us:
How do we safely and easily remove router bits that seem frozen after removing the nut? This seems worse with 100% carbide bits. The collet seems to grip the bit and the cavity of the router quite securely and if the bit shank is straight and smooth there is nothing to grip to pry it out .
Is there any oil or wax that can be applied to the bit before installing it in the router to avoid the problem of it freezing?
Is there a source for collets to use bits smaller than the standard 1/4 inch supplied?
Thanks in advance to all!

i very gently pry the bit up with a wide tip screw driver...also remember never to bottom out the shaft on a bit allow about 1/16 inch space and you will have fewer bits binding,and of course do not over tighten..

 

[Cue Crazy]

You don't happen to remember where you saw the aftermarket 1/8" collet do you? I'd like to have one.

I saw someone on ebay the other day that had some that looked nice. they were on a mandrel to fit the router collet though I think. never used them Myself though, and don't know the runnout. Think he was marketing them as cnc parts. If I run accross them again I'll post the link. Your probably wanting a straight up collet to fit the router though.

edit, BTW I usually use the leather and plyers also after trying to open the collet up alittle bit, they are a real pain to work loose from the router sometimes, so good question posted here.
Greg