How do the pros do it? I can draw table length, but the pros do it and the cue ball banks on the other end and keeps on going. What I notice is that the CB flies a few mm off the table at the start of the shot preventing lost of spin, how is done and how do I prevent the CB from flying off the table?
Super draw shot
- Thread starter fish2
- Start date
In order to compare yourself with a pro, you first must eliminate the most important variable, which is cloth condition. If they're playing on a new cloth, and you're not, you'll never be able to draw the cb like them, or like anyone for that matter. So if you're watching them in a pro tournament, then they are playing on new cloth. Easy peasy. Try it yourself on a new cloth. You'll be amazed.
Yes, of course, there's technique involved, but first you have to eliminate that important variable before you can even begin to compare yourself.
Yes, of course, there's technique involved, but first you have to eliminate that important variable before you can even begin to compare yourself.
I am familiar with the cloth condition, but the flying CB part helps maintain spin regardless if the cloth is new or not
skiergd011013
Well-known member
Brand new fast cloth and brand new, clean balls make draw easy.
I once waxed my CB with collinite 845 wax, and it would draw back 3 feet if you even looked at the cb
I once waxed my CB with collinite 845 wax, and it would draw back 3 feet if you even looked at the cb
WobblyStroke
Well-known member
Ye def the cloth/conditions for the most part. Earl even sprays the cloth for exhibitions for that extra zip.
As far as the technique for these super draws goes, you pretty much nailed it with the cb being airborne for part of the way down table to reduce friction. This is just due to being slightly or more than slightly jacked up as you see in exhibition shots. The shooter usually shoots these out of the corner pocket or off the rail. Makes the shot look more impressive but it also makes it easier due to getting the cb off the cloth. With the cb a foot or lil more on the table and a flatter stroke, the shot is both less impressive and more difficult.
As far as the technique for these super draws goes, you pretty much nailed it with the cb being airborne for part of the way down table to reduce friction. This is just due to being slightly or more than slightly jacked up as you see in exhibition shots. The shooter usually shoots these out of the corner pocket or off the rail. Makes the shot look more impressive but it also makes it easier due to getting the cb off the cloth. With the cb a foot or lil more on the table and a flatter stroke, the shot is both less impressive and more difficult.
The CB jumps a little on almost every shot, because almost every shot is hit with a slightly elevated cue.
I wonder if jumping the CB causes less total ball/table friction, considering the momentary increase in friction as the CB is driven downward into the cloth (and bounces on the cloth a few times).
Dr. Dave…?
pj
chgo
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Magictrat007
New member
I would just say practice the mighty X from about six diamonds away. Eventually, you’ll get it down. Also, one thing I’ve learned about massive draw. Shots is that they are more about control than they are about power. If you can swing hard and hit it exactly where you want to. It’ll fly back at you.
To prove this, try looking at the cue ball last, focusing on hitting the target contact point - you might be surprised how much easier some shots (not just power draw shots) can be with precise tip/ball placement.
oj
chgo
WobblyStroke
Well-known member
Just try the shot. It's easier jacked up where the cb gets more air and less cloth contact.
Makes sense physics-wise given there is less time for the friction to do its work.
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WobblyStroke
Well-known member
True, but my results with each option and the fact that pretty much all exhibition shooters choose to play the shot jacked up, suggest that overall friction is lower with an airborne/hopping cb than one sliding the entire time.