System 3 clear coat

hi,

I wanted buy System Three Mirror Coat but Europe havent dealer and American dealers dont ship overseas this product :(
Any know a similar product ??

thanks
 
I have just conducted my first airbubble removal with flame. :smile: I used a gas grill lighter, therefore I didn't burn my fingers. It worked very well. I had to do it a couple times as more came out 20 min. later. It was a coat of finish cure, 2nd coat, I was actually surprised to see the bubbles.
Dave
 
fiolledapool said:
hi,

I wanted buy System Three Mirror Coat but Europe havent dealer and American dealers dont ship overseas this product :(
Any know a similar product ??

thanks
I'm not sure if the mirror coat is the one that works the best. Those tend to be really thick compared to say the System Three clear coat epoxy. I used it once for a project a long time ago and it dried with an amber color to it instead of crystal clear. Just my opinion.
Dave
 
I'm one of the ones that has used It for a while. It's alright, bubbles easily as mentioned, so want to mix carefully, but can thin them out of the mix before applying to the cue by setting It under the heat from a hot lamp.

Curing- want to make sure You still mix well while trying to keep those bubbles to a minimum, and try to get the mix ratio as close as possible for best results.

filling- It's alright, but don't expect one thick cote to get it with every cue, thinner cotes, squeezed in with a playing card will save a lot of unnecessary sanding.

Clarity- I haven't had any severe yellowing issues, so in that sense It's clear, otherwise Ivory in the cue is still white, but It can tint or darken some maple a bit if left too long before applying clear over It, although I wouldn't say It's a bad look like yellowing. This happens with age, but the top cote of finish helps lock It in. If you were to let It hang for say a year or so before finishing though, It may change some, and if You were matching a shaft after that period of time that wasn't sealed at the same time, then It could cause a matching issue, and say you accidentally knocked some epoxy off the butt below the joint during any punch out work or matching a shaft, going through the epoxy in the process, then it may look whiter in that spot then the rest of the forearm, so might as well sand it all down before finish, so You don't end up with a blotchy forearm that sealed in By the finish.

Another thing too, I suspect this may occur with other epoxies also, but just like with sanding, be sure to spot seal anything that Your concerned about getting bled on before applying It to the cue, especially with some rosewoods or the sort that are known for bleeding.

The end result is It works, and looks good once You get the hang of using It, learning all the little tics associated with the stuff, but how It compares to west, I don't know.


The finish Cure is quite a bit cheaper, but I have never used It. I do have a kit here that I am gonna try out though to see if I like It any better.
 
got me some mirror coat at woodcraft this week, put it on, and it is nice, but the bubbles would be my only complaint. I will have to figure out how to keep them at a minimum.

Other than that, it is thick, glossy, and has a deep luster to it, just as I expected it would. It feels nice too.
 
OK so it took me forever

It took forever to finally get a good feeling of how the stuff works.
The system 3 clear coat works pretty well. It is very clear not quite water clear but the closest epoxy I have found. The build is the key on this stuff. If you like a thicker finish this is your baby. A couple coats then shoot auto over top f you like or wait a week and then sand and buff. It takes about a week for the stuff to get hard enough to sand and buff. All in all it seems to be a pretty good product.

John
 
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