Table identification

Yeah, it almost looks like a ball could fall in a side pocket while rolling past the points.
Yeah it’s almost like the top was built to pro 8 specs (46” X 92”) and installed on a standard 8 (44” X 88”).

Edit: A previous owner might of broke the original 46 X 92 slate and replaced with the more common size of 44 x 88. Something for the OP to ponder, might be easier just finding the right slate.
 
Last edited:
I should probably start a new thread for this question, let me know if that's the case...
I started pulling staples out of one of the rails today. It looks like the cloth has been glued to the point edge of the cushion and to the feather strip. Is that at all normal? There is no way these cushions could have been reused on a re-cloth job, since so much of it got pulled off with the cloth. Or is it just that the rubber is so old it's stuck to the cloth. I'm going to take it *very* slow trying to peel the cloth off the feather strip so I minimize the chance of it getting broken. If I'm not successful are the feather strips fairly easy to source? Are there different sizes I'd have to deal with, other than length?
PXL_20241013_220910669.jpg
 
It looks like the cloth has been glued to the point edge of the cushion and to the feather strip. Is that at all normal?
No
are the feather strips fairly easy to source? Are there different sizes I'd have to deal with, other than length?
Basswood featherstrips are typically 1/4" x 5/16" . Easy enough to get a set of 6 at many sources online.
 
These look like they have a taper to them, wider at top than bottom when inserted. I'm going to have to do some measuring today to see for sure...
 
These look like they have a taper to them, wider at top than bottom when inserted. I'm going to have to do some measuring today to see for sure...
Some are rectangular and some have a rounded edge side. You can use either.
 
In looking at the actual slots, they seem to be the same width at top and bottom, so though the current feather strips are tapered top to bottom, they likely don't actually need to be. I've got a set of 1/4x1/4x48" coming and I expect I won't have to adjust those to make them work, other than cutting to length and angle. The current strips aren't rounded at all, just wider at the top than at the bottom. I was able to get the cloth pulled off each of them without actually breaking any, but it looks like it would be quite the pain to remove enough glue and cloth residue to feel good reusing them. I also got the old rubber off and my next step is to clean the glue residue off the rails so I can get the new rubber set, after extending the surface appropriately for the narrower pockets I want.
I know the angle used on Diamonds for the corner pockets is 141º, what's the angle used on the side pockets? Same question for the pocket width, I'll want to add wood to each side of the rails to match what it should be. There is also an angle vertically that I'd like to match...
 
Sat down with a caliper today, the slots are 0.25"at top, and 0.23"at bottom. I haven't measured depth yet. I assume there is a need for a small clearance between the strip and the slot in order to allow for the cloth thickness. I am also going to have to extend the slot through the wood I'm going to be adding to each end of each rail to get the pocket size smaller and to change the angles. I have a set of feather strips coming from Manning Cues. I'm thinking that if I need to adjust either the strips or the slots I'd prefer to do the slots and have it the right size from now on. It looks like the slots are straight, so I shouldn't need to deal with any sort of curve and could cut them with a router and a clamped straight edge. If that is feasible, what size should I cut the slots to? 0.26, 0.27, 0.28, ???
Next issue, (boy this table sure was opening a can of worms) is the glue they used on the rubbers. In addition to the issue with them gluing the cloth and rubber together, and gluing the feather strips to the cloth, they used a glue that doesn't seem to be a contact adhesive to mount the rubber itself. At least the residue (and that's pretty thick in the center where the cushion has that groove) is hard as a rock. I thought contact cement always dried to a rubbery texture. This is more like wood glue, though how they would hold the rubber in place while it set is beyond me. Anyone have suggestions as to how to remove the residue without getting too much into the wood itself? A sanding block is going to take a long time and although I do have an angle grinder I'm worried about taking too much off.
 
I personally would not try to recut the featherstrip slots. When you get the new strips test fit them with a piece of cloth. Should be snug. As for glue for the cushions you can get a quart of 3M-10 Scotchgrip which works good and is readily available.
 
I've got a can of Barge All Purpose for the cushions, the question I was asking was how best to remove the old glue, which isn't a contact cement. It's is quite hard, possibly harder than the wood itself, and fairly deep in that area in the center. I'm hoping to get most, or all, of it removed without harming the finish or taking away the wood it's adhered to, but it's going to be tough unless someone has an idea for me.
 
I've used a paint scraper [pull kind] to remove the bulk of it. Then when getting close to the wood switch to the sanding block of choice.

P.s.
Learn how to sharpen the scraper with a fine metal file. A sharp tool is best.
 
Last edited:
Yes, in concert with a heat gun, the paint scraper gets enough off that I can finish with the orbital sander. The heat gun softens the glue just enough for the scraper to get a hold on it... Without the heat the scraper just rides over the glue without actually taking much off. I've got two rails ready for the extensions and will likely get another couple done today before I have to leave. :)
Does anyone have a source for wood in the proper thickness to do the extensions? Moving from what I believe were 5" pockets to just under 4 1/2" means I'll need something like 1/4" on each side, right? I believe the rails are currently oak and I'll have to sand the extensions a bit to change the angles, but don't want to have to take too much off. Currently the angles are actually pretty close, 142º instead of 141º and 103º instead of 102º, so I shouldn't have to take very much off... I haven't measured the down angle yet.
 
Yes, in concert with a heat gun, the paint scraper gets enough off that I can finish with the orbital sander. The heat gun softens the glue just enough for the scraper to get a hold on it... Without the heat the scraper just rides over the glue without actually taking much off. I've got two rails ready for the extensions and will likely get another couple done today before I have to leave. :)
Does anyone have a source for wood in the proper thickness to do the extensions? Moving from what I believe were 5" pockets to just under 4 1/2" means I'll need something like 1/4" on each side, right? I believe the rails are currently oak and I'll have to sand the extensions a bit to change the angles, but don't want to have to take too much off. Currently the angles are actually pretty close, 142º instead of 141º and 103º instead of 102º, so I shouldn't have to take very much off... I haven't measured the down angle yet.
IMO 1\4" plywood works and is less likely to crack or split.
 
Yes, in concert with a heat gun, the paint scraper gets enough off that I can finish with the orbital sander. The heat gun softens the glue just enough for the scraper to get a hold on it... Without the heat the scraper just rides over the glue without actually taking much off. I've got two rails ready for the extensions and will likely get another couple done today before I have to leave. :)
Does anyone have a source for wood in the proper thickness to do the extensions? Moving from what I believe were 5" pockets to just under 4 1/2" means I'll need something like 1/4" on each side, right? I believe the rails are currently oak and I'll have to sand the extensions a bit to change the angles, but don't want to have to take too much off. Currently the angles are actually pretty close, 142º instead of 141º and 103º instead of 102º, so I shouldn't have to take very much off... I haven't measured the down angle yet.
I would think that you want the sub-rail extensions to be thicker than needed so there is excess material to correct pocket angles. Just my 2 cents.
 
I picked up some oak 3/8x2 that looks like it'll work out. I'm going to dig the chop saw out this weekend and make a bunch of small pieces to glue on. I need to make sure I've got all the adhesive off those faces first, they were the only place I can see they used contact cement.
 
I picked up some oak 3/8x2 that looks like it'll work out. I'm going to dig the chop saw out this weekend and make a bunch of small pieces to glue on. I need to make sure I've got all the adhesive off those faces first, they were the only place I can see they used contact cement.
As mentioned above, plywood is the preferred material for extensions. It holds up to the abuse of balls slamming against it better than solid wood.
 
As mentioned above, plywood is the preferred material for extensions. It holds up to the abuse of balls slamming against it better than solid wood.
Wow, I definitely would not not have assumed that. Like they say, you learn something new everyday.
 
Back
Top