Table Leveling Specification

Das Cue-Boot

Active member
I’m not sure where to ask this question, so I’ll try here. Is there anywhere in the equipment or other rules that actually specifies how level a table should be? I’ve seen the flatness and coplanar requirement for slates and slate joints, but nowhere can I find anything defining level and how level it should be. I think we would all agree that a table with a 5 degree slant that collects all the balls on one rail would be unacceptable, but how good is good enough? 1 degree? 0.1 degree? 0.01 degree? Does anyone look at this for tournaments, and what criteria do they use?
 

GoldCrown

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
How level is level? I had BestBuy deliver a washer .., the two guys fiddle for a little bit and tell me they’re done … it’s almost level.
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
Paul mentions tolerances in this video:
Every table is a little different, has been my experience. It's rare that frames are perfectly flat, and it's rare that slates are perfectly flat, so there are almost always some compromise. The better you are, the less you have to compromise. This takes experience and intelligence and the ability to problem solve. It also takes time, which is why you'll run across a lot of unlevel tables. Hacks cut corners and this is one is pretty easy to cut.
 

Renegade_56

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've personally watched Glen Hancock level 8 ft Diamond Pro Am tables, right after he took off like 27 Machinist Levels.
 

GoodPM

Member
Glen walked me through leveling my GC4 with a single Starrett 98-8. Moving around between 18(?) different locations on the table, the goal was to be within 5/1000's of level at each location.

He mentioned that most people won't be able to perceive an unlevel table until it's around 20/1000's off.
 

Floyd_M

"Have Cue, Will Travel"
Silver Member
In Kenosha, Wi.
there's a pool league
that deems this table is level.


crooked table .jpg

YES that cue ball did pick up speed to drop in the pocket
otherwise the speed was enough to lay at or on the rail.
.
 
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rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Paul mentions tolerances in this video:
Every table is a little different, has been my experience. It's rare that frames are perfectly flat, and it's rare that slates are perfectly flat, so there are almost always some compromise. The better you are, the less you have to compromise. This takes experience and intelligence and the ability to problem solve. It also takes time, which is why you'll run across a lot of unlevel tables. Hacks cut corners and this is one is pretty easy to cut.
It 100% takes time. It took my mechanic about 5 hours to dial my table in.

49583769918_ad25525426_k.jpg
 

Floyd_M

"Have Cue, Will Travel"
Silver Member
I've recovered tables for over 1/2 century now and I prefer a slow rolling ball on the bare slate for leveling.
Most of my jobs are not the higher end customers. Many times the cloth chosen/purchased by customer has imperfections which will cause ball roll-offs. I do inform the customer of those possible issue(s) before they purchase it.
Also before installing said cloth and IF the customer is present, I'll show said ball rolling for levelness.

The pix I posted above is an 8' Brunswick table. The cloth replaced was in fairly good condition. The other two tables they have cloths were in horrible condition but they INSISTED on using that P.O.S. in the back. Its previous cloth was an unknown higher quality & had near zero issues. What they used for that tables recovering was akin to a tight weave Corduroy fabric. Rub your hand on it, you feel the weaves lines.

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