table saw turning machine

[((VH))]

Thanks.

I haven't seen one in action yet but I assume that the shaft is spinning stationary while the saw slides along the shaft or is it the other way around?

Based on Teds pic, it's the other way around. It's the shaft that would feed into the cutter.

So how does the system work?

 

[Joseph Cues]

Thanks.

I haven't seen one in action yet but I assume that the shaft is spinning stationary while the saw slides along the shaft or is it the other way around?

Based on Teds pic, it's the other way around. It's the shaft that would feed into the cutter.

So how does the system work?

Wood moves across.

 

[((VH))]

Wood moves across.

You mean the cutter is perpendicular to the wood right? I first thought the cutter was parallel or in line with the shaft just like the way you'd use a table saw.
So the feedrate must be pretty slow, a fast feedrate would probably chip the wood

 

[cuesmith]

the shaft is held between centers in what could be described as a lathe. The "lathe" has a hinge on one side and rides a template on the other side which gives you your profile. On my machine, the "lathe" does the moving and moves in the direction the blade is turning and also back. I put a shaft between centers, turn it on, come back in 5 minutes and load in another which it cuts on the return trip. I could speed it up on the early passes and use the 5 minute cut only for the finish cuts, but it really wouldn't help much in production. I run my shaft machine while working on other things. I hear it shut off and automatically, if I'm not busy with something else, I'll load another shaft. It's become second nature to me after running this machine for 10 years. If it were cutting them much faster, I'd feel like it was necessary to "man the machine" and wouldn't have much time to do other things. In the time it takes to take a pass on my shaft machine, I can, on one lathe, cut my tenon for ringwork on a shaft and glue up the ringwork, then move to another lathe and cut the ferrule tenon and glue on the ferrule. Then if the phone doesn't ring or someone knock on the door, I'm ready to load another shaft in the shaft machine. I often have several pieces of equipment in operation at once, a load of laundry in the washing machine and dryer with a pot of chili on the stove as well! Gotta use your time efficiently! lol

Sherm

 

[((VH))]

Thanks Sherm. That was what I had in mind. Might rig up something for that. You mentioned about the 12" blade, woudn't a normal toothed 12" do the job?

Haven't cleared up about the cutter yet, is it parrallel or at a right angle to the shaftwood?

I know it could cut both ways but which is better?

 

[Canadian cue]

Here's a pic from Arnot's site also without permission.

 

[cuesmith]

Thanks Sherm. That was what I had in mind. Might rig up something for that. You mentioned about the 12" blade, woudn't a normal toothed 12" do the job?


Not nearly as well as the flat tooth grind. Most blades have the teeth tilted slightly alternating directions. This isn't good for a shaft machine. The flat tooth grind has all the teeth set exactly the same. Works good because the sides of the blade are never going THROUGH a solid piece of wood, only the tips of the teeth are touching any wood.

Haven't cleared up about the cutter yet, is it parrallel or at a right angle to the shaftwood?

Parallel, or in the same direction as the rotation.


I know it could cut both ways but which is better?

My machine cuts equally as well traveling both directions, but there is a slight difference in the diameters going one way from the other. Just a few thousands, not really an issue.

Sherm

 

[((VH))]

My machine cuts equally as well traveling both directions, but there is a slight difference in the diameters going one way from the other. Just a few thousands, not really an issue.

Sherm

Based on the pics posted here, it's the shaft that feeds into the cutter. On your set up, you got the shaft between centers and it's the cutter that feeds into the wood.

For a 12" blade set up for a lathe, it has to have a pretty long bed for the cutter to clear on the onset before it feeds into the wood.

 

[iusedtoberich]

the larger the better IMHO! The 12" blade I use works JAM-UP, but you need a special grind on the blade! I send mine to Chicago to have sharpened because everyone locally who's tried (even though they assured me it was NO PROBLEM) screwed them up. You need a 80 tooth wide kerf blade with a "FLAT TOOTH GRIND" no rake! At least this is what works best for me!

Sherm

Have you ever tried a triple chip grind? It is like a flat top rip profile, except the corners of each tooth are chamfered. They are designed for cutting non-ferrous metals. That profile might work well in this application.

I'm only a cue repair person, but I have been doing woodworking all my life. I can tell you bar none, Forrest makes the best saw blades and has the best sharpening service in the industry. They ALWAYS come out on top in all the woodworking magazines. They cost about double what other blades do, but they are worth it. They can probably make you a blade with any specifications that you want.

 

[cueman]

Have you ever tried a triple chip grind? It is like a flat top rip profile, except the corners of each tooth are chamfered. They are designed for cutting non-ferrous metals. That profile might work well in this application.

I'm only a cue repair person, but I have been doing woodworking all my life. I can tell you bar none, Forrest makes the best saw blades and has the best sharpening service in the industry. They ALWAYS come out on top in all the woodworking magazines. They cost about double what other blades do, but they are worth it. They can probably make you a blade with any specifications that you want.

Triple Chip never worked for me. Flat grind 60 tooth is what I always used. Triple chip actually has every other tooth chamfered. I know people who have slowed their machines down and made triple chip work, but in faster passes (under 6 Mintutes) they are very rough cutting.

 

[blud]

shaft machine

Here's a pic from Arnot's site also without permission.

ARNOT'S SHAFT MACJINE!

Canadian cue, this is one of my machines I sold to Arnot a few years ago.
The full lenght table, allows the fixture to slide with support the full lengh of the table and work.

Most converted table saw machines, have only support the same size as the table, and has a cam-roller bearing to hold it down to the table at full lenght. To much over hang causes the machine and fixture to be in a bind, and un-nessesary load applied to it and the shaft will not be cut to the proper size.


CLEAN OR CRAWL CUTTING!
I differ with Sherms findings, on getting the same cut in both directions. Reason is, your crawl cutting one direction and clean cutting the other. There is a big differance. Clean cutting is best with any kind of cutter. When you crawl cut you have a repeat of cuts over and again, because your going against the travel of the shaft. Clean cutting the shaft passes in the same direction that the blade is turning. Leaves it smoother.

BLADES!
Also, I have my blades ground flat on the sides, [ no curf] and flat topped with as much rake as possible.

Take the rotaion speed, [turning the shaft at the proper speed, I turn mine at 96 RPM's], feed rate speed, [ from one end to the other, about 6.5 minutess], and what RPM, the blade is turning [ 3450 RPM's] and clean or crawl cutting. All these things have a lot to do with the finish of a cut on shafts and or butts..

blud

 

[macguy]

ARNOT'S SHAFT MACJINE!

Canadian cue, this is one of my machines I sold to Arnot a few years ago.
The full lenght table, allows the fixture to slide with support the full lengh of the table and work.

Most converted table saw machines, have only support the same size as the table, and has a cam-roller bearing to hold it down to the table at full lenght. To much over hang causes the machine and fixture to be in a bind, and un-nessesary load applied to it and the shaft will not be cut to the proper size.


CLEAN OR CRAWL CUTTING!
I differ with Sherms findings, on getting the same cut in both directions. Reason is, your crawl cutting one direction and clean cutting the other. There is a big differance. Clean cutting is best with any kind of cutter. When you crawl cut you have a repeat of cuts over and again, because your going against the travel of the shaft. Clean cutting the shaft passes in the same direction that the blade is turning. Leaves it smoother.

BLADES!
Also, I have my blades ground flat on the sides, [ no curf] and flat topped with as much rake as possible.

Take the rotaion speed, [turning the shaft at the proper speed, I turn mine at 96 RPM's], feed rate speed, [ from one end to the other, about 6.5 minutess], and what RPM, the blade is turning [ 3450 RPM's] and clean or crawl cutting. All these things have a lot to do with the finish of a cut on shafts and or butts..

blud

What is the price of a machine like that?

 

[blud]

call

What is the price of a machine like that?

Mac, I sent you a PM, check it out.
blud

 

[blud]

call me

What is the price of a machine like that?

Hey Macguy,
I left you a PM, a few days ago. Give me about a week, and leave me your #, and I'll call you. Goin to FL. delivering cues.
blud
830-232-5991

 

[blud]

cuts per shaft

What is the price of a machine like that?

Hey Macguy,


MY SAW/LATHE!
I failed to mention that with my saw/lathe, with a 6.5 minute cut, X 3450 RPM's, X 80 teeth, that's 1,794,000 cuts per shaft. This is with the mechanial machine.

With the CNC model, you can slow the feed rate to a crawl and get millions of cuts per-shaft. No need to ,because at 6.5 minutes, leaves little to clean sand. just a little touch up.

Leaves it pretty smooth.

Blud