TABLE SET UPS!
This is how we did this setting up several tables at once. Not all will agree with my methods, but it worked well for us.
Set your table framing in place. Then level it the best you can. Then place your slates on top and fasten them down when your done making them level, flush and seams filled with putty, your now ready to settle the table to the floor.
WET CARPET!
Now this is what most wive's will say "not way"...Well girls this will not hurt your carpet. Making sure that the table is now level, draw some HOT tap water and pour around each leg of the table. Hot water will let the carpet mash, GET SOFT and the table will settle very fast for a great leveling job.
If your table has wooded legs, be sure to put a "PLASTIC" bag around them and tape it high around the leg, so the water will not soak up in the wood leg. After a couple of days trim the bag from around the legs. [don't cut the carpet, just trim close to the leg and no one will ever see it].
Leaving the plastic under the leg, it will prevent any "staining" of your carpet. This water will not hurt your carpet. When you have your carpet "steam cleaned" it's hotter than tap water. Just use enough water to let it settle down.
Doing this on the road made the tables stable and playable right away. Once in a while we would have to go back and tweek a table or two. Table installation in homes, most installers have to come back in a few days or weeks and re-level the table. This will keep them from coming back to relevel.
Laying cloth!
Again, not all will agree with my methods, but it worked for me.
Lay the cloth on the slates, smooth it out and make sure nothing is under the cloth except, clean slates.
Next take and make sure the cloths seams are running straight with the slates edge. Then take a chaulk box and snap two lines, 2", apart down the middle of the cloth. [ don't worry the white chaulk line will vaccum up and or brush out], then snap one straight across from side pocket to side pocket, and snap one about 6" from each end cross ways. Now you have a small grid to work from.
A total of 5 lines.
The reason for two lines down the middle is if your doing several tables and using two or more table mechanics, and after stretching one table, get the width of the two lines and the other guys can stretch there cloth the same. Doing this, all of the tables surface will play fairly close to the same. One line is reqiured if your installing only one table. Remember, just keep the lines straight as you can.
Some mechanics will naturally stretch the cloth more than the other guy. So this keeps all cloth stretching, close to the same. By doing this with several tables going in at the same time, you will not have "HOT SPOT" or slick spots from over stretching on differant spots on the table. The tables will play close to the same. Remember, were trying to stretch the cloth with the way it was woven, for better ball tracking. [ going straight on a slow roll].
Stapple about 8" on one end of the table and then go to the other and staple about 14" and then go back to the other end and do about 4 or 5"repeat this untill it's stapled all the way across going from one end to the other. While stretching the cloth on both ends, do your best to keep the side ways chaulk lines on the ends as straight as possible. Most table mechanice will staple all the way across one end and then do the other end. When they do this this first end "never is stretched, [AS WELL AS THE LAST END THEY DID]. I tested the mechanics strecth with my loop and counted the threads per inch. The second stretched end had about 20% more stretch. This is a slower process than what mechanics normally do. And this is there main complaint, other than there ego's kicking in. It take a few more minutes and a little more work. No big deal.
Now stretching the cloth side ways, you work it about the same way trying to maintain straight chaulk lines. Just do one section at a time out of the remaining 4 sides, then go back and finish the pockets.
These methods have worked real well for me. We had to have everything rockin and rollin real fast and this was a winner for us.
LADIES, don't worry the water will not hurt your carpet. [in most hotels that we went to had very, very thick carpet]. The chaulk "WILL" remove very easily.
I hope this has helped, and I've answered your questions. Let me know if i can help in any way.
blud
This is how we did this setting up several tables at once. Not all will agree with my methods, but it worked well for us.
Set your table framing in place. Then level it the best you can. Then place your slates on top and fasten them down when your done making them level, flush and seams filled with putty, your now ready to settle the table to the floor.
WET CARPET!
Now this is what most wive's will say "not way"...Well girls this will not hurt your carpet. Making sure that the table is now level, draw some HOT tap water and pour around each leg of the table. Hot water will let the carpet mash, GET SOFT and the table will settle very fast for a great leveling job.
If your table has wooded legs, be sure to put a "PLASTIC" bag around them and tape it high around the leg, so the water will not soak up in the wood leg. After a couple of days trim the bag from around the legs. [don't cut the carpet, just trim close to the leg and no one will ever see it].
Leaving the plastic under the leg, it will prevent any "staining" of your carpet. This water will not hurt your carpet. When you have your carpet "steam cleaned" it's hotter than tap water. Just use enough water to let it settle down.
Doing this on the road made the tables stable and playable right away. Once in a while we would have to go back and tweek a table or two. Table installation in homes, most installers have to come back in a few days or weeks and re-level the table. This will keep them from coming back to relevel.
Laying cloth!
Again, not all will agree with my methods, but it worked for me.
Lay the cloth on the slates, smooth it out and make sure nothing is under the cloth except, clean slates.
Next take and make sure the cloths seams are running straight with the slates edge. Then take a chaulk box and snap two lines, 2", apart down the middle of the cloth. [ don't worry the white chaulk line will vaccum up and or brush out], then snap one straight across from side pocket to side pocket, and snap one about 6" from each end cross ways. Now you have a small grid to work from.
A total of 5 lines.
The reason for two lines down the middle is if your doing several tables and using two or more table mechanics, and after stretching one table, get the width of the two lines and the other guys can stretch there cloth the same. Doing this, all of the tables surface will play fairly close to the same. One line is reqiured if your installing only one table. Remember, just keep the lines straight as you can.
Some mechanics will naturally stretch the cloth more than the other guy. So this keeps all cloth stretching, close to the same. By doing this with several tables going in at the same time, you will not have "HOT SPOT" or slick spots from over stretching on differant spots on the table. The tables will play close to the same. Remember, were trying to stretch the cloth with the way it was woven, for better ball tracking. [ going straight on a slow roll].
Stapple about 8" on one end of the table and then go to the other and staple about 14" and then go back to the other end and do about 4 or 5"repeat this untill it's stapled all the way across going from one end to the other. While stretching the cloth on both ends, do your best to keep the side ways chaulk lines on the ends as straight as possible. Most table mechanice will staple all the way across one end and then do the other end. When they do this this first end "never is stretched, [AS WELL AS THE LAST END THEY DID]. I tested the mechanics strecth with my loop and counted the threads per inch. The second stretched end had about 20% more stretch. This is a slower process than what mechanics normally do. And this is there main complaint, other than there ego's kicking in. It take a few more minutes and a little more work. No big deal.
Now stretching the cloth side ways, you work it about the same way trying to maintain straight chaulk lines. Just do one section at a time out of the remaining 4 sides, then go back and finish the pockets.
These methods have worked real well for me. We had to have everything rockin and rollin real fast and this was a winner for us.
LADIES, don't worry the water will not hurt your carpet. [in most hotels that we went to had very, very thick carpet]. The chaulk "WILL" remove very easily.
I hope this has helped, and I've answered your questions. Let me know if i can help in any way.
blud
