Tapering butt section

[LittleDoc]

This may be a dumb question, but I figured I’d ask before making a dumb mistake. Like I mentioned before, I’m new to cue building so I’m in the learning stages. When processing the wood from 1.5” turning square down, what sizes should the butt sections be when you assemble a forearm to handle? Do I build the complete butt section including rings while just round, then taper? Or do I put a taper on each individual section(forearm and handle), assemble, then turn to finish size? Thanks for your guys time

 

[DeeDeeCues]

This may be a dumb question, but I figured I’d ask before making a dumb mistake. Like I mentioned before, I’m new to cue building so I’m in the learning stages. When processing the wood from 1.5” turning square down, what sizes should the butt sections be when you assemble a forearm to handle? Do I build the complete butt section including rings while just round, then taper? Or do I put a taper on each individual section(forearm and handle), assemble, then turn to finish size? Thanks for your guys time

Dealer's choice. Paddle your own canoe. What works for Steve may not work for Bob.

 

[Canadian cue]

You want to bring down your material in stages giving time for your material to stress relieve and acclimate between cuts. Myself I like to only leave enough for a clean up pass before assembly. If you leave too much material for your final turns then you run the risk of the wood moving and the cue warping soon after your final pass. As a word of advice be very mindful of the facings between all parts of the cue.

 

[JoeyInCali]

It's easier to machine the bottom of the forearm and top of the handle when you have about 3," of straight section there.
Taper oversize and cut a straight section there.

 

[Kim Bye]

Different strokes for different folks..
But it's logical that the closer to final diameter you choose to do assembly, the more precision you need from your equipment.

 

[Canadian cue]

Different strokes for different folks..
But it's logical that the closer to final diameter you choose to do assembly, the more precision you need from your equipment.

Cutting away the runout after assembly just makes the cue run concentric on the outside. I guess one has to decide how important having your tenons run true with the outside diameter is, and how much deviation is considered acceptable.

 

[JoeyInCali]

You want to bring down your material in stages giving time for your material to stress relieve and acclimate between cuts. Myself I like to only leave enough for a clean up pass before assembly. If you leave too much material for your final turns then you run the risk of the wood moving and the cue warping soon after your final pass. As a word of advice be very mindful of the facings between all parts of the cue.

If you core, you minimize that from happening.
Torture the core dowels before final size.
Throw away the movers.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

This may be a dumb question, but I figured I’d ask before making a dumb mistake. Like I mentioned before, I’m new to cue building so I’m in the learning stages. When processing the wood from 1.5” turning square down, what sizes should the butt sections be when you assemble a forearm to handle? Do I build the complete butt section including rings while just round, then taper? Or do I put a taper on each individual section(forearm and handle), assemble, then turn to finish size? Thanks for your guys time

turn wood round
core wood
taper wood to .100 over
assemble tapered wood
if your wood is moving at .100 over you have bigger problems than crappy wood