tapershaper-cage

Works like a charm!

BarenbruggeCues said:
Very ingenious.........are you happy with the way it works?
Now after using it what would you change or add or subtract?

I have removed the foam "seal" that I had taped inside the enclosure. The double sided tape that I used to secure it didn't stick to the foam well enough. The suction created by the dust collector kept sucking the foam right off into the collector. I now just put duct tape over the opening from both sides and then cut a "star" opening to slide the stock through the hole. A few of the larger chips will escape through the opening nearest the cutter. If I could figure out a good flexible seal that would "hug" the stock at that point, 100% of the chips would be contained.

One thing that I do need to improve is the drive center I use. I need a longer one. The enclosure comes REAL close to the chuck at the end of the cut. I have a positive stop bolted on to prevent a collision, but I'd like to have a little more clearance just for comfort.
 
Bill the Cat said:
I have removed the foam "seal" that I had taped inside the enclosure. The double sided tape that I used to secure it didn't stick to the foam well enough. The suction created by the dust collector kept sucking the foam right off into the collector. I now just put duct tape over the opening from both sides and then cut a "star" opening to slide the stock through the hole. A few of the larger chips will escape through the opening nearest the cutter. If I could figure out a good flexible seal that would "hug" the stock at that point, 100% of the chips would be contained.

One thing that I do need to improve is the drive center I use. I need a longer one. The enclosure comes REAL close to the chuck at the end of the cut. I have a positive stop bolted on to prevent a collision, but I'd like to have a little more clearance just for comfort.

I have a similar set up for a metal lathe. My answers are the same. You need long centers for a setup like this. A live center with smaller body and longer nose is a huge help.

Like Bill said, something like a rubber grommet "insert" with the star shaped cuts to hug the stock would be a huge help for the large chips that escape out of the access hole in line with the ejection of the router bit. Like Bill, In my set up, only heavy chips escape through the star shaped access hole, and only for larger cuts when the chips have enough mass to overcome the suction. All fine dust is sucked up.

Kelly
 
Tapershaper enclosure redone

I revamp my inclosure. First, after useing the machine awhile I thought it was a dumb idea to have the controller in the back of the machine where you had to reach over spinning objects to operate it. It could be dangerous! More than anything it was an inconveience when the cut is finnished on the left side. I relocated it in front and outside the box. I also made a cover to protect the motor somewhat and a place to keep allen rench for head pin

After looking at some web sites I decided to install doors to the plexiglass. I used magnet tape to seal and keep the door close it works pretty good. I havnt put in the dust collection system or put on a top yet.

Now If I had remote controll system to dial in the depth of cut, it would be perfect.
 

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For a friends saw machine (golf shafts) we built a plexi cover then attached the dust collector to a boot installed in the bench. The boot was a standard forced-air HVAC floor vent, 3" x 10" (?) with a 3" inlet(outlet in this case). You could put a couple in behind the lathe. It's easier to cut a couple holes in the benchtop and run the hose underneath to the boots. Just an idea.

Dave
 
No pictures but what I did was screw a 2X4 to the back wall near a corner with 2 2X4 studs sticking straight out to rest the shaft machine onto. I then put 1/2" plywood on the two open sides from the floor up to this frame. It now looks like the shaft machine is sitting on a plywood box. On the inside of this box I took 2 pieces of plywood and screwed them in so that they slanted downward from the ends to where they met in the center about 30" below the machine. I put a 6" or so flat bottom here with a 4" hole. I hooked up a 4" pipe here running into another room where my dust collector is. I can now run many, many shafts through the machine with the dust collecting in this bin below it. When it gets full I turn on my dust collector and quickly suck it all up. In this way, the dust collector only runs for a couple of minutes every hundred shafts or so.

Dick
 
I use a pair of shopvacs with hepa filters and drywall bags. The nozzels are above and beside the cuttingtool catching what is thrown off.I use a small diameter multi tooth cutter. Keeps the surface speed down from the same rpm. This greatly reduced the amont that was not getting caught. I get alergic to cork dust.This works well for me. When I setup next will take some pics.Filtering has up untill recentlyhad been the problem for me. But the Hepa filters seem to be the trick .
Neil
 
JBCustomCues said:
Thats basicly the same thing that I did except I only plexie glassed the front. See you got the quiet router. How you like it?

The quiet router just dont have the power for many operations on the Taper/Shaper machine.
Load it down cutting "V" groves in a forearm and the belt will slip.
The Laminate cutter that comes with this machine is MY prefered router for almost all operations.
Use a multi tooth cutter and slow it down and it is very quiet.

Harbor Freight has a variable speed router for $20 that works perfect with this machine.
 
WilleeCue said:
The quiet router just dont have the power for many operations on the Taper/Shaper machine.
Load it down cutting "V" groves in a forearm and the belt will slip.
The Laminate cutter that comes with this machine is MY prefered router for almost all operations.
Use a multi tooth cutter and slow it down and it is very quiet.

Harbor Freight has a variable speed router for $20 that works perfect with this machine.


Like I said before I take .080 passes with mine all the time with no problems. Belts dont slip and nothing breaks and the machine runs like a champ. And you dont need a multi tooth cutter you just need a good 5/8router bit.. I only use CMT bits because how sharp they are and how sharp they stay due to the quality of carbide they use.. And as for slowing down you router by doing so your killing your horse power. So take a nice big cut I'm sure your boging down your router..
 
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