test pictures
- Thread starter johnqbs
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Dieselkiss
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Hey that's really nice!! Well done. Is that MDF or slate? it looks like MDF but then looks a little thick compared to mine.
How does it play and how long did it take you to build?
One issue I had with my MDF was that the only sheets I could get were 98 x 49 compared to 95 x 51 for a proper 8ft slate so of course all the cuts from the side had to be adjusted as if it was 51 (an inch short either side of course) I forgot a few times and my MDF sheet shows signs of that lol
How does it play and how long did it take you to build?
One issue I had with my MDF was that the only sheets I could get were 98 x 49 compared to 95 x 51 for a proper 8ft slate so of course all the cuts from the side had to be adjusted as if it was 51 (an inch short either side of course) I forgot a few times and my MDF sheet shows signs of that lol
what about making a 3-piece MDF then?
Dieselkiss
Registered
to be honest, for the sake of those extra inches and having to adapt ( that 1 inch either side (51" slate - 49" mdf = 2" - 1" either side) is behind the subrails if you want a 44 x 88 playing area so can essentially be ignored other than for measurements. My subrails bolt through the MDF bed, but my outer rails (which are not attached or glued to the subrails like most tables (but do but up to them), are attached to the outer frame of the table that sits under the MDF - whether this will be a mistake in the end or not has yet to be seen), I just didn't think trying to get a 2 or 3 piece MDF bed together and level was worth the hassle and effort. It was easier to use one piece and just adapt for the inch either side.
I did, incidentally, cut the 98" down to 95" same as a piece of slate would be.
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yes that is mdf 3/4 i think the size is 97x49 . i don't know the number i
cut it down to on the end right off . i do know i cut the end to have enuff
for an inch of board for each end to mount the rails . as i built the table from scratch did not want to piece board so i made to be a true 7 foot
most 7 foot tables are only 40x80 my jon bilt is 42x84 pocket opening
from point of nose is 4 1/4. i cut rails as not to double shim with facings.
side pockets are 4 3/4 after i lined up rails to be square marked for cut
for shelf to be 1 3/8. side a little less . what you've got to watch out for
building a home made table is not to let the side skirts out run the corners.
i lost some of my pictures . but i do have all the specks in my note book
program on computer . i may build one more i have a friend that wants a
table. it is to much work , not a walk in the park take care johnqbs
Dieselkiss
Registered
Ahhh ok john, it just looks bigger then cause my MDF is actually 1" thick, I looked at the 3/4 but thought it would be more prone to flexing and warping.
I built mine as an 8ft with 44 x 88 playing field nose to nose. I actually built the frame first, without having bought the MDF just going from my plans. This was a bit of a mistake as now my side rails are going to be 6 inch wide with the edges of the table finished with pretty wooden crown moulding looking thing so edge of subrails to end of table will be maybe 7 inches intotal. Bigger than I wanted but definitely a lesson learned. I could cut the frame down and narrow it, but have no wish to do that. As for the pockets, hopefully if my measurments are right my corners will be 4" throat and 4 7/8ths mouth. I have a feeling not all my cuts were perfect and that I may have to take up some slack with 1/8th and 1/16th rail end facings - not what I wanted but it is my first attempt.
Not sure I understand what you mean about the side skirts outrunning the corners...if you mean the rail behind the subrail then my outer rails are only coming to the edge of the pockets and the pockets themselves (I used cheap plastic pockets) will have their own corner section.
I agree though, building a pool table is a lot more work and a lot more fussy than I imagined - I have a few friends who've said 'wow can you build one for me' and generally I say...no.....for the money go buy yourself a pro-built second hand one. I only chose to build one cause I like making stuff and it was a challenge.
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Good quality photos though!
don't understand
let me get this straight. did you have a table and all you needed was a playing surfface ? i agree 1 inch would be better all i could find at home
depot was 3/4 . the same here you can buy a good used table cheaper.
the reason i did not build a 44x88, length will work but the side would need
a strip for side rails to attach to . from scratch even at 49 wide rail liner
and cushions will take up 4 inches. each side .
we need to compare notes we need to talk about this
take care for now johnqbs:anderson sc
let me get this straight. did you have a table and all you needed was a playing surfface ? i agree 1 inch would be better all i could find at home
depot was 3/4 . the same here you can buy a good used table cheaper.
the reason i did not build a 44x88, length will work but the side would need
a strip for side rails to attach to . from scratch even at 49 wide rail liner
and cushions will take up 4 inches. each side .
we need to compare notes we need to talk about this
take care for now johnqbs:anderson sc
Dieselkiss
Registered
Hey jonh,
no no..it's a completely from scratch table...in fact the frame is made from left over 3.4" x 1.5" x 10' Stud wall frame timber I had left over from an office I ripped out of my garage!
My rails are not part of the outer rail -
My rails
with cushions, these rails work out at around 2 1/8th". So, with the 49", to create a 44" wide playing area the back edge of the rail sits approx 1/4" in from the edge of the MDF sheet.
Now for the outer rails I built a support rail that sits around the outside of the MDF sheet and onto the frame (actually made out of the first MDF sheet I used that I completely messed up lol) And then the 'pretty wood' part of the rail that you actually see screws into that under-rail and it sits over that 1/4" and butts up to the back edge of the subrails in the same way a regular build would.
Now as it goes, I put my rails on yesterday after having spent hours trying to make sure everything was right.
Well - it wasn't. Only one corner pocket was the right dimension (4 thrt - 4 7/8th mth.) the rest? Well...suffice to say they were buckets.
I am bitterly disappointed, but I have no one to blame but myself -seems my cuts were not as accurate as I had hoped.
So now I am tossing up what to do. I don't want to ditch the brand new rails and rubbers, as I am trying to keep costs down and can't really afford to replace them.
Currently, I am considering cutting the whole thing down to a 7ft table. That way I can re-cut all of the pocket cuts in the bed and make them accurate ( I didn't get the exact dimensions for the bed cuts untill AFTER I had done them and so had to try and adjust stuff once I got the dimensions - VERY bad idea) and I will also then have rails that, even with angles already cut, will be too long, so I can cut them down short to the correct length for a 7ft and be able to re-cut the angles.
I did consider adding to the rails with subrail extensions, but that would mean buying a brand new set of rubbers -I don't want to, or trying to add a 1/4 section to the rail rubbers...now I know very little about building pool tables, but even I can work out that would be an absolutely disastrous idea lol.
Over all.....geez, what a learning curve lol
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