Some people say that the most important shot of the game is the break. What are some of the things that you should consider doing on the break. Should you try to hit the rack as hard as you can and hope that you get a ball in and position or should you try to hit it with finesse. When watching 9 ball on tv I notice that a lot of the pro's like Strickland and Deuel like to hit it hard and get a good spread on the balls. Others like Corr and Varner perfer a soft break and go from there. I know that pool is a game a prefence but what are your opinions on breaking. Is it brain or brawn. Also when choosing a break stick should you get something that it heavier than your playing stick or should you get something that is equal in weight or lighter. I break with my playing stick because really it is the only stick that I have for now and I dont really like to use the house sticks because most of them are not in any condition to play with. I seem to get a good break in both 9 and 8 ball but I am looking for ways to improve. What are your opinions on breaking?
The Art of Breaking
- Thread starter NOSAJ03
- Start date
I break hard with draw from the center of the table. I like it to break the rack, come back to the head rail and go back to center table.
The break that has really been working for me is to line up along the side (second dot) and with medium(controlled) speed strike the front ball dead center with a half tip below center cue ball hit. I have been consistently making one or two balls with this break which is certainly better than all my previous dry ones 
DDK
DDK
IMO a good break stick consists of a hard phenolic tip, stiff and slightly thicker shaft (13.5-14mm), and and overall weight of about 18oz. This combo allows me to transfer greater velocity to the cue ball.
I had a friend JW Petree make me this cue and it hits like a freight train. The crack of that cue can make every head in the whole room turn.
I used to hit real hard with it, but now prefer a medium-hard hit so I can control the shot more; I still get a good spread. I place the cue off the right hand diamond on the head rail, one diamond up on the side rail, and aim for a center hit on the lead ball.
I had a friend JW Petree make me this cue and it hits like a freight train. The crack of that cue can make every head in the whole room turn.
I used to hit real hard with it, but now prefer a medium-hard hit so I can control the shot more; I still get a good spread. I place the cue off the right hand diamond on the head rail, one diamond up on the side rail, and aim for a center hit on the lead ball.
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imo, the break depends entirely on the game... and even on your opponent and the table.
in 1 pocket and 14.1, i'm really conservative, though in 1 pocket i try to push the balls toward my pocket and bring the cue ball back to the opponent's long rail up table.
in 14.1, i start the safety battle on the break.
on 8 ball, i want to slam the balls, and due to my own stroke and the number of balls, shoot about 1:30, hard, from the left corner of the table and try to hit the second ball squarely. i usually end up with the cue ball somewhere near the center of the table and at least one ball in.
for 9 ball, i use the soft break, trying to drop the 1 in the side and play the rest of the balls like 14.1 until only a couple are left. this works well against the local 9 ballers, since they're not so good at working the pack.
hope that helps!
in 1 pocket and 14.1, i'm really conservative, though in 1 pocket i try to push the balls toward my pocket and bring the cue ball back to the opponent's long rail up table.
in 14.1, i start the safety battle on the break.
on 8 ball, i want to slam the balls, and due to my own stroke and the number of balls, shoot about 1:30, hard, from the left corner of the table and try to hit the second ball squarely. i usually end up with the cue ball somewhere near the center of the table and at least one ball in.
for 9 ball, i use the soft break, trying to drop the 1 in the side and play the rest of the balls like 14.1 until only a couple are left. this works well against the local 9 ballers, since they're not so good at working the pack.
hope that helps!
I used to play on the professional 9-ball tour and now I am a professional artistic pool player and trick shot artist. Let me give you my advise about the break.
The most important part of the break is hitting the top ball full in the face. Wherever you decide to break from, you want to hit that top ball dead on.
You also want to get the cue ball to stop somewhere in the center of the table. I don't mean that it should roll around and hopefully stop in the middle. You want the cue ball to bounce back and stop (provided it doesn't get hit by another ball which you have no control over).
The way to practice is to take about 50% of your speed off when you break. Hit it easy and practice hitting the top ball square. Everyone has a different stroke and you need to find out where on the cue ball you should hit to get it to bounce back and stop in the middle of the table. For me, I hit about 1 tip below center, but it will be different for everyone. Once you get used to doing all that, start increasing your power a little at a time. Eventually you will be back up to your normal breaking power and you will be most consistently hitting the top ball square and stopping the cue ball in the middle of the table.
Where you put the cue ball doesn't matter regarding what I have said above. However, you should practice breaking from different spots because you will need to change where you break from as you move from table to table. I usually break from one of the side rails, but on occasion, if the balls are not going in for me, I move towards the center of the table, usually at the first diamond or so.
One last point: You don't need to hit the balls extremely hard when you break. You want to find your point where you can hit the balls at a certain speed and still be fairly confident that you will hit the top ball square and get the cue ball in the middle of the table. I probably hit the cue ball at around 80% of what I can if I just wanted to smash the balls, but you need to find your own speed. As you get better at the break, you will be able to hit them harder with the same accuracy.
I hope this helps. Good Luck.
Andy
The most important part of the break is hitting the top ball full in the face. Wherever you decide to break from, you want to hit that top ball dead on.
You also want to get the cue ball to stop somewhere in the center of the table. I don't mean that it should roll around and hopefully stop in the middle. You want the cue ball to bounce back and stop (provided it doesn't get hit by another ball which you have no control over).
The way to practice is to take about 50% of your speed off when you break. Hit it easy and practice hitting the top ball square. Everyone has a different stroke and you need to find out where on the cue ball you should hit to get it to bounce back and stop in the middle of the table. For me, I hit about 1 tip below center, but it will be different for everyone. Once you get used to doing all that, start increasing your power a little at a time. Eventually you will be back up to your normal breaking power and you will be most consistently hitting the top ball square and stopping the cue ball in the middle of the table.
Where you put the cue ball doesn't matter regarding what I have said above. However, you should practice breaking from different spots because you will need to change where you break from as you move from table to table. I usually break from one of the side rails, but on occasion, if the balls are not going in for me, I move towards the center of the table, usually at the first diamond or so.
One last point: You don't need to hit the balls extremely hard when you break. You want to find your point where you can hit the balls at a certain speed and still be fairly confident that you will hit the top ball square and get the cue ball in the middle of the table. I probably hit the cue ball at around 80% of what I can if I just wanted to smash the balls, but you need to find your own speed. As you get better at the break, you will be able to hit them harder with the same accuracy.
I hope this helps. Good Luck.
Andy
I've read somewhere that when breaking, if we don't hold the cue as level as possible, this causes the cue ball to get air off the cloth, which results in a break of not full potential. This can be observed when we break and the cue ball jumps in the air (or even off the table) when it hits the pack. This seems logical to me, however i'm not a pro, so maybe someone who is can expand on this
BeeMan,
I disagree that Corey breaks hard, unless he's changed his break since the last time I saw him. When he had his big year, he was consistently breaking them soft with control.
I agree with everything Andy said but I would only add that you also try to concentrate on your stroke too. In other words, try emphasizing a good stroke rather than power. Jean Balukas, a female player that beat all the men in a break contest about 20 years ago said the break is all about stroke.
I disagree that Corey breaks hard, unless he's changed his break since the last time I saw him. When he had his big year, he was consistently breaking them soft with control.
I agree with everything Andy said but I would only add that you also try to concentrate on your stroke too. In other words, try emphasizing a good stroke rather than power. Jean Balukas, a female player that beat all the men in a break contest about 20 years ago said the break is all about stroke.
Here's a link to an article I wrote for Easypooltutor.com. It has 3 pages, so be sure to click on the Next Page link at the bottom of the first two pages.
Controlling the 9-Ball Break
-djb
Controlling the 9-Ball Break
-djb
S
Sputnik
Guest
I am a Filipino, so excuse my being bias. Django Bustamante's break is by far the best forceful break in the business, IMBO (hahaha).
He breaks from near the side rail, having his cue tip slide back beyond his bridge hand, at an elevated angle. In his final stroke, he uncoils his torso to an erect stance, ensuring an elevated stroke with the power coming from his chest and shoulder (like Bruce Lee's chest punch). He punches the cue ball at an angle where the cue ball is pushed against the table slate, making it "fly" on its way to the rack. His long follow through bends his shaft against the table, leaving skid marks on the cloth. This elevated shot ensures that the white bounces upon impact due to the cue ball "flying" and not rolling onto the rack. His kicking himself at the back is merely a reflex action which gives him balance.
This is so different from the way Earl and Johnny, whose follow throughs fly up in the air.
He breaks from near the side rail, having his cue tip slide back beyond his bridge hand, at an elevated angle. In his final stroke, he uncoils his torso to an erect stance, ensuring an elevated stroke with the power coming from his chest and shoulder (like Bruce Lee's chest punch). He punches the cue ball at an angle where the cue ball is pushed against the table slate, making it "fly" on its way to the rack. His long follow through bends his shaft against the table, leaving skid marks on the cloth. This elevated shot ensures that the white bounces upon impact due to the cue ball "flying" and not rolling onto the rack. His kicking himself at the back is merely a reflex action which gives him balance.
This is so different from the way Earl and Johnny, whose follow throughs fly up in the air.
Assuming it is 9-ball...
Another tip, successful for me, is something that I read here on AZ- don't aim at the face of the 1, but rather aim for the point where the 1 meets the table, its base.
And don't be afraid to move the ball around. Different tables> different racks> different results.
-pigo
Another tip, successful for me, is something that I read here on AZ- don't aim at the face of the 1, but rather aim for the point where the 1 meets the table, its base.
And don't be afraid to move the ball around. Different tables> different racks> different results.
-pigo
Break cue should be:
1. light, 18 oz or less
2. wood to wood joint
3. 13mm or better
4. phenolic tip
Some players say the phenolic tip runs the cue ball all over the table too much, others swear by them....Every time I try to break hard, I scratch or lose cue ball control. I prefer about 80% full throttle. I'm no pro, just a lover of the game.
1. light, 18 oz or less
2. wood to wood joint
3. 13mm or better
4. phenolic tip
Some players say the phenolic tip runs the cue ball all over the table too much, others swear by them....Every time I try to break hard, I scratch or lose cue ball control. I prefer about 80% full throttle. I'm no pro, just a lover of the game.
Sputnik said:
You are absolutely right about Bustamantes break but for most pool players it is nearly impossible to duplicate. His stroke and body control allow him to break like this whereas most of would end up with broken knuckles and a lump on the back of our heads. I think for most players a controlled break striking the head ball will do the trick. Sure is fun to watch him though.
DDK
Spending a couple of hours experimenting every few weeks can help.
Breaking as hard as you can hit the cue ball with control consistantly seems to be the chosen method. And as it has been said in previous posts, the closer to the center of the table the cue ball ends up the better. One thing I have found that helps to do that is changing the english for whatever way you move the cue ball. If you move to the left of center, put a half tip of bottom right. If you move to the right use a half tip of bottom left. Try this a few times and see where the cue ball ends up. Also breaking this way tends to throw the 1 ball towards the side pocket. If you play with or watch some of the more experienced players(I won't say old). Buddy H., Nick V., etc.. make that 1 ball in the side pretty regular.
I break hard and all of the cue makers I have been with know this from the number of ferrules I break. Also, that divit that gets created where the 1 ball sits is not caused by people tapping balls, it is caused by the cue ball hitting the 1 ball above center on the break(I laugh when people say that someone has been tapping balls). When the divit where the spot is gets bad and you have to move the balls forward to get a tight rack, move the cue ball a couple of inches closer to the center of the table. That will help make up for the rack position.
Taking time to practice breaking is very well spent time. Playing the Ghost also helps you get a little break practice in
Breaking as hard as you can hit the cue ball with control consistantly seems to be the chosen method. And as it has been said in previous posts, the closer to the center of the table the cue ball ends up the better. One thing I have found that helps to do that is changing the english for whatever way you move the cue ball. If you move to the left of center, put a half tip of bottom right. If you move to the right use a half tip of bottom left. Try this a few times and see where the cue ball ends up. Also breaking this way tends to throw the 1 ball towards the side pocket. If you play with or watch some of the more experienced players(I won't say old). Buddy H., Nick V., etc.. make that 1 ball in the side pretty regular.
I break hard and all of the cue makers I have been with know this from the number of ferrules I break. Also, that divit that gets created where the 1 ball sits is not caused by people tapping balls, it is caused by the cue ball hitting the 1 ball above center on the break(I laugh when people say that someone has been tapping balls). When the divit where the spot is gets bad and you have to move the balls forward to get a tight rack, move the cue ball a couple of inches closer to the center of the table. That will help make up for the rack position.
Taking time to practice breaking is very well spent time. Playing the Ghost also helps you get a little break practice in
... some folks will say that making the "game winning ball" is the most important shot in the game. While I kinda lean that way myself, I still understand that making the shot prior to that event was real important too.
Once a player has reached the level of a 5 or 6 Speed & above.. the Break Shot becomes very important, because of what can be done by controlling the Cue Ball on the Snap.
If a ball is made on the break & a shot on the next lowest numbered object ball presents itself, the player at the table is in control of the match at that time. Running a few balls or running the rack has to do with the opportunity that's presented.
In some games, a push out is the only option for the Breaker. In other games, the lowest numbered object ball has presented itself for the making. In other games, the Breaker has to play a safety.... but this situation is important to understand. If you play a good safe (hooking your opponent), you leave the table without threat to your chances of losing. If your opponent does hit the required object ball & ends up returning the favor... that's just bad luck, generally ball-in-hand is the result.
If you continue to give your opponent this kind of treatment, it will wear them down. If they loose their cool, generally they are conquered completely.
All this can happen because of a great Break Shot... Don't believe me, try it.... you'll like it.
Once a player has reached the level of a 5 or 6 Speed & above.. the Break Shot becomes very important, because of what can be done by controlling the Cue Ball on the Snap.
If a ball is made on the break & a shot on the next lowest numbered object ball presents itself, the player at the table is in control of the match at that time. Running a few balls or running the rack has to do with the opportunity that's presented.
In some games, a push out is the only option for the Breaker. In other games, the lowest numbered object ball has presented itself for the making. In other games, the Breaker has to play a safety.... but this situation is important to understand. If you play a good safe (hooking your opponent), you leave the table without threat to your chances of losing. If your opponent does hit the required object ball & ends up returning the favor... that's just bad luck, generally ball-in-hand is the result.
If you continue to give your opponent this kind of treatment, it will wear them down. If they loose their cool, generally they are conquered completely.
All this can happen because of a great Break Shot... Don't believe me, try it.... you'll like it.
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