The Spot & Alignment

DrCue'sProtege

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
ok, now, someone clarify this for me. the spot goes right in the middle between the diamonds, correct? which is where mine is. now, when i rack with the '1' ball on the spot, where should the '1' ball rest?

A) leading edge of the '1' ball even with the leading edge of the diamonds?
B) center of the '1' ball on the center of the spot - which puts the '1' ball up in front of the diamonds

i guess my question is: where should the leading edge of the '1' ball be if all is done correctly? its my understanding that even being slightly off could affect the break shot.

hope this question makes sense.
DCP
 
I wold think that for a "perfect" spot and rack the center of the spot/apex ball should be at the intersection of the center of the diamonds.
 
RichardCranium said:
I always thought that where the base of the 1-ball touches the cloth is the determining factor. As long as the base of the ball is on the spot...It is a legal rack IMO......I may be wrong...


Ideally, the 1-ball should be on the center of the spot but ANYWHERE on the spot would be considered legal. Honestly, nobody ever racks from the center of the spot every time due to adjustments needed to freeze the rack.


Jude M. Rosenstock
 
DCP - I thought you deliberately had the spot moved from the traditional position when you had your new cloth installed? We had a whole discussion about this.

The spot is always supposed to be CENTERED on the foot string (IE the line between the 2nd diamond on each long rail at the bottom half of the table.) Therefore if the head-ball (1 ball in 9 Ball) is on the spot, the bottom of the head-ball where it touches the cloth should be on the center of the spot which should be on the foot string. As the bottom of the head-ball is in it's center the front edge of the head-ball should be exactly 1 1/8" (1/2 the diameter) in front of the head string.

Consider that you don't have to have a big stick-on spot at all, you can simply mark the spot with a dot or a cross using chalk or a pen. This mark is always made on the foot string. (This is how it is done on good quality Snooker tables) However on Pool tables, especially those used for 9 Ball, the head-ball spot will very quickly get worn due to the downward force the head-ball gives to the cloth on every break. If you do not have a stick-on reinforcement spot under the head-ball you may find a hole wears through the cloth faster than the rest of the cloth wears out. It depends on how much use the table gets and how hard people are breaking on it.
 
Dandy reply:
Every time I get on a table I either rip off the spot and break on the other end and find and mark my spot with a pencil and with a small X. I dont want a ball skidding off of paper, I want it sitting on the cloth. Spots are dumb, I will not put up with them. Also I have never found one yet that was in the perfect spot, most are l/2 to a full inch off true center.
:D
 
I use a construction chalk string...

Get one person to line up along long center diamond at one end, and other person at center diamond of other end, then snap string. This leaves a line going long ways in the center of the table. Then do the same at the second diamonds. Now you have a + at the intersection of the two lines. I use a pencil or pen to mark the exact intersection. Then stick your spot centered over this intersection.

You can then tap a ball into the center of the glued on spot and the ball will rest in the "crater".

Next place your rack on the table with the ball on the spot in the crater and get the rack to just barely touch the ball. Then measure your rack for alignment with the foot rail. Measure from the rail to the left rear side. Then measure the other side. Both sides should be equal and your rack will not be "tilted" one way or the other.

Then while holding down the rack, outline the rack with blackboard chalk. I use tailor's chalk which has sharp edges and is triagle shaped. You get this at a cloth/sewing store.

Now you will have a perfectly centered rack - not tilted, and can rack the same each time. -one less variable when practicing break shots...
 
Billy_Bob said:
I use a construction chalk string...

Get one person to line up along long center diamond at one end, and other person at center diamond of other end, then snap string. This leaves a line going long ways in the center of the table. Then do the same at the second diamonds. Now you have a + at the intersection of the two lines. I use a pencil or pen to mark the exact intersection. Then stick your spot centered over this intersection.

You can then tap a ball into the center of the glued on spot and the ball will rest in the "crater".

Next place your rack on the table with the ball on the spot in the crater and get the rack to just barely touch the ball. Then measure your rack for alignment with the foot rail. Measure from the rail to the left rear side. Then measure the other side. Both sides should be equal and your rack will not be "tilted" one way or the other.

Then while holding down the rack, outline the rack with blackboard chalk. I use tailor's chalk which has sharp edges and is triagle shaped. You get this at a cloth/sewing store.

Now you will have a perfectly centered rack - not tilted, and can rack the same each time. -one less variable when practicing break shots...


Dandy reply: dude, you are almost there. I have a 5' and a 10' string with small weights on each end so I can do this my self and just toss them over the rails and bingo, I have perfect lines now to go by. I drop a line across then drop the line line down the middle. I deep tap the one in the perfect center, then rack the balls behind it which is my reference point. I use a very heavy Ambassador rack which does the job perfect. I force the balls forward with my hand against the one and then lightly tap in each one so all are froze. I now do not use the rack again but now rack by hand. I just roll the balls in the small indents and and when I see a gap do a very light tap to freeze them and after 4 or 5 hand racks they all freeze to each other perfectly every time. My hand method is just as fast as racking with the triangle but it makes me see each contact point so I never have a gap between any balls and I get a nice spread each time from that. When I begin racking by hand that freaks a lot of dudes out. Mark Tadd taught me this back in 93. Tadd was a little weird like me too I guess.
 
I've only seen the rack outline method used on a table setup specifically for Straight Pool playing, the idea being to make it clear whether the key ball would end up in the rack area or not. At the time it struck me as cheating slightly, as making this judgement should be part of the player's skillset.
 
AuntyDan said:
I've only seen the rack outline method used on a table setup specifically for Straight Pool playing, the idea being to make it clear whether the key ball would end up in the rack area or not. At the time it struck me as cheating slightly, as making this judgement should be part of the player's skillset.


Dandy reply: I never thought I would live to see the day I would actually agree with something you said but wonders never cease. A blind squirrel finds a nut now and then as well.

Drawing a line around the rack is not needed and I think thats something you do on the tables at the boys and girls club, never on any good table or cloth in any nice pool hall. You stand down table to watch to insure you are not high or low or tilt racked.
:D
 
Yup, placing the head-ball anywhere on the spot is acceptable. Please do NOT create a crater though !!! Do NOT bang the balls to get them tight. Craters should NOT be necessary to acquire a tight rack.

On tables where 1-Pocket is played, I like a line drawn from the spot to the end rail. This line is also useful to assure that the rack is not "tilted" in any game.

Troy
AuntyDan said:
I've only seen the rack outline method used on a table setup specifically for Straight Pool playing, the idea being to make it clear whether the key ball would end up in the rack area or not. At the time it struck me as cheating slightly, as making this judgement should be part of the player's skillset.
 
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