Thoughts on mechanical bridge head, please...

Bob 14:1

Bob 14:1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Any thoughts on this leather bridge head? With a new Schon and new 860, I thought it would be a safe bet against damaging my cloth or shaft.

With all the hoopla regarding Kamui's chalk pricing, I don't mind spending more to save my table, but just wondering if it's another over priced Kamui item?

Would also like to know what you might recommend. Please be as specific as you can, 'cause I'll have to order whichever I choose on line.

Thanks a million for you help!!!

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I've used a Tiger Corona, exact same thing, works well. Tiger is $6 cheaper.Brian.
 
I've been using the "Batman" (aka Moosehead) bridge head for many years. Even though it's plastic it doesn't damage your shaft or cloth...and it costs just $2.00! I always carry one in my case.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
 
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a1712 said:
I've used a Tiger Corona, exact same thing, works well. Tiger is $6 cheaper.Brian.
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Hi Brian/pt

I've seen that as well. I too was somewhat concerned about the leather causing drag on the shaft which pt109 referenced regarding perhaps an earlier edition head. Do you know if they've addressed any problems regarding the wood/leather friction? I'm also thinking the leather might hold up better for me 'cause I hate to reach for the mechanical bridge, and mostly just lean it against a nearby wall so I'm more inclined to use it, rather than stretching out and blowing my shot. Thanks for including a link, pt!!!
 
As long as there are no sharp edges and it's not made unusually 'thin' , virtually any pool bridge will do just fine.

Some of the cheaper metal ones have casting flange/marks thru the center , where your cue would rest , thus causing damage.
 
RRfireblade said:
As long as there are no sharp edges and it's not made unusually 'thin' , virtually any pool bridge will do just fine.

Some of the cheaper metal ones have casting flange/marks thru the center , where your cue would rest , thus causing damage.
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I don't like using metal bridges for the casting marks for sure.
And if you use an aluminum bridge a lot, it will leave black marks.
 
I carry two bridges in my case:

[1] Tiger Corona leather bridge head
[1] London Bridge

The Tiger Corona does not cause any excess friction, because the cue shaft is riding the sides of the leather (which are treated smooth, btw), rather than flat faces of leather.

Although I'd formerly used the Tiger Corona bridge almost exclusively, I've since started using the London Bridge more.

Reasons:
  • You can "see through" the London Bridge, enabling precision placement, and precision cueing/aiming over balls.

  • The London Bridge more closely follows the design of the snooker rest, which uses a "V" channel for the cue to ride on, rather than oversized "U" channel. With a "V" channel, the cue rides more accurately because the channel reduces almost to a point; there's no rounded bottom for the cue to "waffle around" on the rounded bottom inside an oversized "U" channel.

The first versions of the London Bridge were absolute crap -- they wobbled around and were made of really cheap plastic. However, they fixed this with some design modifications, and use a much stronger plastic (with absolutely no mould/casting marks, btw) and a reinforced rubber cylinder (the part that slips over the tip of any cue to use as the bridge's handle).

I've found that I like the London Bridge the best, and I use mechanical bridges a lot for 14.1.

-Sean
 
I like the Ray Martin Extend-A-Bridge
The variable length and the head design function nicely.
Probably just the length adjustment capability, but the Extend-A-Bridge is the only bridge I've ever liked.
 
I have 2 of them. They serve the purpose.... protecting the shaft and table cloth.
I also enjoy using the Moosehead for drawing when it is called for with a bridge.
 
Thank you one and all for all your great contributions, and for taking the time to help me out with another rookie question!! :smile:

Thanks again!!!! :thumbup:
 
I have made my own out of leather based on a foam bridge that was sold a decade ago. I really like it and if the leather edges are done right there is no drag. I am working on an improved version but after seeing the London Bridge it appears to be just as versatile without the bulk or expense.

Regarding the Kamui or Tiger bridges, I feel that they are simply leather versions of the old style metal bridges. And that means that they are ok for most shots but functionally inadequate for the tricky shots like rail shots, shooting over balls, getting into odd positions.....
 
Scott Lee said:
I've been using the "Batman" (aka Moosehead) bridge head for many years. Even though it's plastic it doesn't damage your shaft or cloth...and it costs just $2.00!
Click to expand...

I don't like the slip-on bridge heads anymore as my Moosehead ripped one of my tips off. Thankfully it was on my break cue and I had a spare shaft with me. I use the Justa-Bridge now instead because it won't damage the tip.





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