Through spindle bore too small for a butt

L

lvlss42190

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have an old clausing atlas metal lathe that's been passed around in my family over the years.

As an aspiring cue maker I jumped at the chance since it cost me nothing other than the favors to help me move it.

Anywho, I've completed my first shaft and would like to move onward to doing the butt end of a cue, however the trouble I have when trying to install a joint pin is that the butt is too large to fit through the spindle and I don't to allow me to drill/bore for the pin. My only other thought is to use a steady rest which I don't have at the moment and do it with a large portion of the handle sticking out the front of the chuck supported by the steady rest.

Since a purpose made lathe isn't in the budget at this time I'm fishing for ideas if anyone has any that would get me going in the right direction.
 
How big is the bore through the spindle, and what is the distance between centers of your lathe? Working with a steady is probably your best option. The other way of doing it is to put your pin into the forearm before attaching it to the handle. You would be faced with the same dilema with the A joint but there are other methods of securing the handle to forearm. Your solution IMO is to rethink how your cue is built and engineer your assembley process around the limitations of your equipment.
 
If memory serves.
7/8" spindle bore, 36" lathe.
Very popular back in the day and sold by Sears.
Your going to need that steady rest. It will become very important.
The good part is, last time I checked, it's available thru Clausing but the last time I checked was about 10 years ago. They had the manual too.
Or....
Use this lathe for tips and ferrules and save for another lathe.
Some of the others here may have options. Sometimes we learn how to do everything using basically nothing.
 
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Steady rest is the answer, for your point in time. I had the same issue, and bought a steady rest from ebay. Then I made my own, using various solid items to get the center height right, and a pillow block bearing that had a 1-3/8" opening and then bought collets from Chris Hightower. Worked ok for awhile until I could afford a better setup. I still have the Pillow block and don't use it, so if it will help you, let me know and I'll let you have it. PM me the model of your lathe, as it may fit without any mods.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Steady rest is the answer, for your point in time. I had the same issue, and bought a steady rest from ebay. Then I made my own, using various solid items to get the center height right, and a pillow block bearing that had a 1-3/8" opening and then bought collets from Chris Hightower. Worked ok for awhile until I could afford a better setup. I still have the Pillow block and don't use it, so if it will help you, let me know and I'll let you have it. PM me the model of your lathe, as it may fit without any mods.
Dave
Click to expand...

Yea I have an old manual from clausing but I know the prices aren't accurate. I haven't seen a steady rest on ebay yet that fits my lathe or isn't more expensive than a new one. Still searching however.

As a last resort if I don't find one in the relatively near future I'm gonna give clausing a call
 
What does a steady rest for one cost? Is this the flat bed top lathe? I used to have one, and not sure I can find it.
 
cueman said:
What does a steady rest for one cost? Is this the flat bed top lathe? I used to have one, and not sure I can find it.
Click to expand...

Yes it's the flat bed style. And I have the 12"
A new one is a little over 200 dollars (I have a tlol vender I use at work I can get them for a good price) the only one I see listed online for mine is currently asking 250.00
 
lvlss42190 said:
Yes it's the flat bed style. And I have the 12"
A new one is a little over 200 dollars (I have a tlol vender I use at work I can get them for a good price) the only one I see listed online for mine is currently asking 250.00
Click to expand...


That's short money.
 
Get a new steady rest with three brass posts and I sell the bearing and 10 collets to go in it for $95.
I did my joint work for years on my old Atlas 10 inch lathe that way.
 
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