Tiger X-Shaft Ferrule

[totbenru]

First of all, I would like to say that the Tiger X Shaft indeed plays very well. After going through more than a dozen shafts (including a 314), I've finally found one that has just the right amount of squirt for me. The cue ball deflection it induces is somewhere between Predator's 314 and my standard one-piece maple shaft with a tip diameter of 12.5mm. Long time standard shaft users will find it easy to adjust to this product.

I recently purchased this shaft at a local Billiards supply and for some reason, the tip diameter labels were mixed up. I got a 13mm instead of a 12.75mm tip size. This being a simple task, I proceeded to turn it down to my preferred 12.75mm. This is where I encountered a problem. The low squirt characteristics of this shaft is partly attributed to the light porous ferrule material and sanding it down will reveal (and probably void the warranty ) the small holes in it. It of course has no effect the shafts playability but aesthetically it does not look pleasing. Before I go any further with the remedy I have in mind, I thought I'd ask for expert opinion.

Based on the cross section diagrams I've seen of the X-Shaft, The solid ferrule itself acts as its own tenon. To preserve the shaft's low squirt characteristics and make the job a lot simpler, I plan to turn down the original ferrule and use it as the tenon instead of boring it out and replacing the whole front end.

Thanks in advance for any advice and have a nice day!

Ben

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

It sounds like you may have one of the early shafts that has the Ivorine ferrule. They switched over to their newer style that is not as porous,
the saber-T stuff.
You just seal the Ivorine with thin cyno while spinning it on the lathe.
Just put it on a paper towel and wipe it on with the lathe spinning at a med slow speed. Hit it lightly with some 800 after it's dry and you can even put a shine on it with some rouge stick you prefer.
Good luck.......

 

[ratcues]

I agree. Saber-T ferrules should be non-porous. You may ask "Crown City Cory" about the construction of the older shaft before you try to cut that ferrule. Could be a bigger mess than you have now....

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

I agree. Saber-T ferrules should be porous.

Ryan........do you mean non-porous......or less porous?

Will the real porous please stand up?

 

[ratcues]

Sorry....I mean non-porous. Trust me....I build cues better than I type.

 

[CrownCityCorey]

First of all, I would like to say that the Tiger X Shaft indeed plays very well. After going through more than a dozen shafts (including a 314), I've finally found one that has just the right amount of squirt for me. The cue ball deflection it induces is somewhere between Predator's 314 and my standard one-piece maple shaft with a tip diameter of 12.5mm. Long time standard shaft users will find it easy to adjust to this product.

I recently purchased this shaft at a local Billiards supply and for some reason, the tip diameter labels were mixed up. I got a 13mm instead of a 12.75mm tip size. This being a simple task, I proceeded to turn it down to my preferred 12.75mm. This is where I encountered a problem. The low squirt characteristics of this shaft is partly attributed to the light porous ferrule material and sanding it down will reveal (and probably void the warranty ) the small holes in it. It of course has no effect the shafts playability but aesthetically it does not look pleasing. Before I go any further with the remedy I have in mind, I thought I'd ask for expert opinion.

Based on the cross section diagrams I've seen of the X-Shaft, The solid ferrule itself acts as its own tenon. To preserve the shaft's low squirt characteristics and make the job a lot simpler, I plan to turn down the original ferrule and use it as the tenon instead of boring it out and replacing the whole front end.

Thanks in advance for any advice and have a nice day!

Ben

Hello Ben,

What you have there is an older shaft with an Ivorine III ferrule. We moved away from that to using Saber-T now specifically for the issue you mentioned.

The quality of available Ivorine III went way down over the years and the stuff had way too many air pockets making the ferrules dirty very fast.

The good news is the construction up front is still just like our diagrams. PM me your info and I will see what I can do about getting a Saber-T replacment ferrule to you.

Corey

 

[totbenru]

Thanks!!!

Good day to all!!!

Thanks Dave, Ryan & Corey for the valuable inputs!

I've decided to follow Dave and Ryan's advice so as to avoid the possibility of damaging such a fine product (don't fix it if it ain't broke ) . Thanks also Corey for the offer on the replacement Saber-T. I'll just purchase another X-Shaft later on and have this one as spare. Its working so great right now (I'm on a winning streak the past few weeks; enough to buy a new cue ) that I don't mind anymore the slight imperfection on this older model X-Shaft.

The lamination and front end technologies employed on this product has truly helped me stroke with more confidence. And the Sniper tip? It's the best of both worlds. The consistent play of a medium-hard tip, and the grip of a soft tip.

Thanks again to you all and 'hope the information on this thread may be of help to others in the future.

Have a nice day!

Ben