I am deployed overseas and without the guy that does all the work on my cues. I brought two spare mooris, but it occured to me that I've never done a tip install or anythng remotely like it. I would like some guidance on doing this. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
tip installation
- Thread starter joninnorfolk
- Start date
thanks for the link. I guess I'll try it if I have to, but I will probably end up playing with the tiniest nub of a tip until it is absolutely unplayable.
I've been deployed and no what it's like! If you want to wait a little for shipping, I'll install them for free and ship them back to you at no charge! I know how the little things can get you through to the next sunrise, anything I can do to help, let me know!joninnorfolk said:
Thanks
Zim
michael@zimsrack.com
www.zimsrack.com
This is a direct quote from Cowboy Bob at American Cowboy Billiards. I hope this helps.joninnorfolk said:
"A quick note on phenolic cue tips. They are difficult to stay on without the correct glue. We recommend a slow setting epoxy or contact cement. Gorilla glue works well. Let the glue set up overnight before trimming or usine to get the best bond possible.
Hello; This should help make it an easier and more professional job putting your tips on. There are also a few tips about protecting your cue when you put the tips on and some little short cuts. I will give you a quick rundown on how I put the tips on when I am out and about. It works excellent and is fast.It usually takes about 10-15 minutes when you get the hang of it. I'll probably save this so I have another copy so don't get offended it some of the stuff in it is real basic. The basic supplies I use you can get at any walmart are super glue jel or locktite jel, some fine sand paper like the packs for doing auto body work. 400-600-800-1000-1500 grit. Single edged rasor blades and scotch tape and a tip clamp. A small 3x5 sheet of paper is also good to have. I always wrap my ferrule with some scotch tape before I start working on them to keep from scratching the ferrule by accident. Take the 3x5 paper and wrap the end of the cue up to the scotch tape and tape it down. This keeps the clamp form indenting the shaft when you tighten the clamp on the tip. Next I trim the old tip off with a single edge rasor blade like the ones you get for window scrapers. Then I sand the top of the ferrule flat with a rapid cue top sander or a flat piece of sand paper. Now sand the bottom of the tip flat also so you get a nice tight bond between the tip and ferrule. Put a little of the super glue jel on the tip and some on the ferrule also. Swirl it so it covers good and let it set up for about 5-10 seconds then place the tip on the ferrule and clamp it real good. Once you have it clamped good turn the shaft end to the floor and give it a good solid push on the floor and hold it for about 10 seconds. This give the tip a real solid bond to the ferrule. Now I usually let it sit for about 5 minutes to be sure the glue is set up real well. The nice thing
about using the super glue jel is that it sets fast and solid and isn't messy. It also fills any tiny gaps in. Now your ready to trim the tip. I lay the shaft across my lap and roll it back and forth with one hand while holding the sand paper or trimmer with the other. (if your like me the sanding gets old real fast and you spend a few bucks on a porper trimmer, They work great!!). Rolling the shaft back and forth is easy to do and works like a mini lathe. Once you do a few this way its easy to get a nice round tip that is even with the ferrule. When you are done trimming the tip down its time to burnish the sides real good. You do this by using something like the porper burnisher or the smooth side of the sand paper. First take a small amount of the glue and put it on your finger tip and seal the sides of the tip. It doesn't take much so go sparing and try not to get any on the hitting surface of the tip. Now take the burnisher or paper and buff the outside of the tip to a nice smooth gloss. Next remove the tape and you can use the 800 grit paper to clean up the ferrule and smooth the tip to the ferrule one last time. Now your ready to shape the tip the way you like it. One last hint. The more surface that contacts the ball the more controll you will have. A nickle radius is good for most shooters. If it feels like you are getting too far under the ball (scooping it) or getting too much throw on your shots you may want to go to a slightly larger radius on the end of your tip or a harder tip. It usually takes about 10 games to get a real good feel for a tip. Especially if you are changing brands of tips or hardnesses. Don't go out expecting to smoke em with a brand new tip on. Thanks Bob,
As for the tipping supplies I would suggest the porper mushroom grazer $15.95 for trimming the tips. The porper burnisher $6.95 or our SharpShooter tip burnisher for $5.95. The easiest to use and best all around shaper/scuffer would be the williard universal for $13.95 , willard dime or nickle shaper $5.95 or our SharpShooter nickle/dime shaper burnisher $7.95. It has a nickle and dime radius gauge on it and is small enouge to put in your cue case. It give the tips an excellent shape without taking off too much tip and is fast and easy to use. For a ferrule flattener I use the actn cue top sander. They are quality made solid medal and reasonably priced at $12.95. As far as glue goes I recomend you go to a walmart or store and get some super glue gel or locktite gel. Its cheap, sets fast, fills any micro gaps, isn't messy and I have never had a tip pop off or not get a solid bond since I started using it. Last but not least the tweeten clamps work great and are inexpencive $2.50.
I think that just about covers everything. The tools I recomended are all high quality and will last a lifetime, easy to use and do a very professional looking job. You will be very pleased and save a ton in the long run doing your own tips with them and can even make a few bucks by doing some of your buddies. I charge $20 for putting on my top quality tips and $12-$20 standard and less expensive layered tips and have paid for all my tools many times over. These are the same tools I use when I am out at league night or a tournament and need to put a tip on real quick and you can't tell the difference from having it done in my shop on a lathe. Hope this helps. Let me know if you want that email on putting the tip on sent or if I can help with anything elso."
Thanks to all replies. Zimsrack, that is a great offer and is appreciated greatly. Good thing I brought a sneaky pete to serve as a temporary if necessary.