Tip shape and size

I know you're into the science big time.
I wish I could find the Semih Sayginer vid where he says....

I can hit the cue ball where nobody else can.

Maybe your illustration is not 1000% accurate.
Guess you need to ask Mr Sayginer.

You may be right with your Math but ????


Even if he used Turkish voodoo, he couldn't possibly be the only one. There's probably an off color joke with his claim too. :D
 
I know you're into the science big time.
I wish I could find the Semih Sayginer vid where he says....

I can hit the cue ball where nobody else can.

Maybe your illustration is not 1000% accurate.
Guess you need to ask Mr Sayginer.

You may be right with your Math but ????
I saw Semih perform and compete at Chris’s, and after watching him up close I’m inclined to believe whatever he says, science be damned.

pj
chgo
 
Catalin, Howdy;

Sorry if I didn't hit the meat of your original post. I just went with the 3rd. para.
and responded as such. By-the-way, I've not had a "pointy middle" as you put it.
Perhaps you are not using your devise correctly.

hank
Definitely using it correctly. Here's a picture of my break tip, shaped with the Mezz Magic shaper. It's more like a volcano than the surface of a sphere in the middle. It's more apparent with the naked eye than in the photo. I get similar results with the Willard on my playing cue.
1b9baabff5464bd08f904b827f88be23.jpg


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A properly shaped tip is spherical, nothing linear or conical about it.
Have a look at he Willard shaper. Tell me again how it's spherical. Add to that that when the abrasive material is deposited, it is not an even thickness and grain size, which can exacerbate the issue.
9bf3baa2e2a46178ec0ef5167ab5f12f.jpg
a4f2efc00be3b26dcf32ea2d969d9639.jpg


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Definitely using it correctly. Here's a picture of my break tip, shaped with the Mezz Magic shaper. It's more like a volcano than the surface of a sphere in the middle. It's more apparent with the naked eye than in the photo. I get similar results with the Willard on my playing cue.
1b9baabff5464bd08f904b827f88be23.jpg


Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk
That's not too bad. You could take the top down with sandpaper. I'd probably play with it as is especially if it's a breaker.
 
I know you're into the science big time.
I wish I could find the Semih Sayginer vid where he says....

I can hit the cue ball where nobody else can.

Maybe your illustration is not 1000% accurate.
Guess you need to ask Mr Sayginer.

You may be right with your Math but ????


That man is a wizard with the best stroke in the galaxy.
 
I always ask for my tips to be cut to a dime radius, and my cue guy never does it....:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: So the first thing I do when I get the shaft back is shape it how I like it. I have quite a few shapers, but right now the one I am using and really like is the LITSPED (sp??) that I got on Amazon.

But I think all shapers are good, it just depends on what works with your hands and ability to use it. I could never figure out the Willard, but have heard so many people like them.
 
The best tool I've ever used for shaping my tips is a sanding block sponge with different grit walls. I couldn't find the exact one right away so here is something similar but instead of having different grits on different sides, each block has a set grit all around. For simple maintenance a fine grit will be plenty and resolves the biggest issue with shaping tools--that they are too rough and take too much material off which can really mess with softer layered tips.

I use layered Kamui tips so just gentle downward strokes with a fine sanding sponge at my desired angle while rotating the cue to get all sides evenly shaped is a great technique that's worked very well for me. It is easier to get it perfectly rounded than you might suspect.
 
The best tool I've ever used for shaping my tips is a sanding block sponge with different grit walls. I couldn't find the exact one right away so here is something similar but instead of having different grits on different sides, each block has a set grit all around. For simple maintenance a fine grit will be plenty and resolves the biggest issue with shaping tools--that they are too rough and take too much material off which can really mess with softer layered tips.

I use layered Kamui tips so just gentle downward strokes with a fine sanding sponge at my desired angle while rotating the cue to get all sides evenly shaped is a great technique that's worked very well for me. It is easier to get it perfectly rounded than you might suspect.
I miscued while shooting with Gene Albrecht. He immediately whipped out one of those blocks. Less then a minute later, I had the best shaped tip I’ve ever shot with.
 
Have a look at he Willard shaper. Tell me again how it's spherical. Add to that that when the abrasive material is deposited, it is not an even thickness and grain size, which can exacerbate the issue.
9bf3baa2e2a46178ec0ef5167ab5f12f.jpg
a4f2efc00be3b26dcf32ea2d969d9639.jpg


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Show me where I said it was spherical, or even mentioned it for that matter.
 
science be damned.

pj
chgo
There's a lot of this stuff we discuss and I'm thinking this the very point.

That point is, The physics, math, or whatever doesn't always match up with the human mind.

We can have a highly trained, extremely intelligent player with zero impediments what so ever and over time never reaches top 10 or even top 50.

Dropping the elbow comes to mind.
Of course if the drop is b4 the hit is problematic.
After the hit??? Couldn't that free up the stroke/the mind?
Couldn't a lack of concern about an elbow promote a freely swinging forearm?

I look at videos of players wanting advise, and they're exactly like Robots.
 
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Tip Diameters vary by personal taste from 11.5-13.5mm for most folks.

A Dime is 17.91mm
A Penny is 19.05mm
A Nickel is 21.21mm
A Quarter is 24.26mm

So the appearance of a "Dime" shape on a 11.5mm shaft will be different than it would be on a 13mm shaft.

Until you get to 17.91mm, a Dime will always have a transition point from the radius to the parallel point on the shaft. You can't change that.
A useful fact: 60 degrees of arc is one radius wide, so to fit 60 degrees of arc on your tip (so you can safely reach the miscue limit on the CB) the radius of the tip's curvature must be no more than the tip's width. Given that, here are the coin sizes you mention and the smallest tips on which they'll fit.

A Dime is 17.91mm - smallest tip width = 9.0 mm
A Penny is 19.05mm - smallest tip width = 9.5 mm
A Nickel is 21.21mm - smallest tip width = 10.6 mm
A Quarter is 24.26mm - smallest tip width = 12.1 mm

An alternative is to use a compound curve, rounder near the edges and flatter in the center.

pj
chgo
 
Dropping the elbow comes to mind.
Of course if the drop is b4 the hit is problematic.
After the hit??? Couldn't that free up the stroke/the mind?
Couldn't a lack of concern about an elbow promote a freely swinging forearm?
Yes, knowing that after-contact elbow drop is OK can help "free the stroke". That knowledge is "science".

pj <- I was being ironic about Semih
chgo
 
Yes, knowing that after-contact elbow drop is OK can help "free the stroke". That knowledge is "science".

pj <- I was being ironic about Semih
chgo
So why is the drop so rejected?
Why not promoted? When done properly?

Seems by the purists, there's no such thing as a proper elbow drop and elbow dropping never/can have any benefit what so ever.

My point is freeing up the swing before contact to allow for the smooth stroke.

I've never been able to say any of this in words for folks to understand me.

I'm just looking for a free wheeling follow through stroke.

Isn't that what we want?
Tell me if I'm wrong
 
So why is the drop so rejected?
Why not promoted? When done properly?

Seems by the purists, there's no such thing as a proper elbow drop and elbow dropping never/can have any benefit what so ever.

My point is freeing up the swing before contact to allow for the smooth stroke.

I've never been able to say any of this in words for folks to understand me.

I'm just looking for a free wheeling follow through stroke.

Isn't that what we want?
Tell me if I'm wrong
The mechanics are easy to teach. Compare to bowing a cello, or better yet, hand sawing lumber...
 
So why is the drop so rejected?
Why not promoted? When done properly?

Seems by the purists, there's no such thing as a proper elbow drop and elbow dropping never/can have any benefit what so ever.

My point is freeing up the swing before contact to allow for the smooth stroke.

I've never been able to say any of this in words for folks to understand me.

I'm just looking for a free wheeling follow through stroke.

Isn't that what we want?

Tell me if I'm wrong
i know that I want a straight back and straight forward stroke.
i cant speak for "we" or "them"
 
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