tip tickness
- Thread starter conetip
- Start date
IMHO, the measurement that you need to consider is how much shoulder the tip has at the perimeter, not the center thickness.
You are more likely to damage a ferrule from a miscue at the perimeter than at the center.
I usually replace mine with the shoulder height gets around the thickness of a penny, sometimes a dime if I'm lazy.
Regards,
Frank
You are more likely to damage a ferrule from a miscue at the perimeter than at the center.
I usually replace mine with the shoulder height gets around the thickness of a penny, sometimes a dime if I'm lazy.
Regards,
Frank
Are You referring to the time to change the tip for fear of cracking the ferrule, or just time to change in general?
Although this isn't My current thinking, I felt this at one time, and have many people tell me some tips play better when they are too low, and in need of changing. I have found this to be true with the style of play I use to use, but now days I never let the tip get very low on My personal cues. They tend to last Me alot longer now anyhow, because I don't use radius shapers anymore, just a tip-pik to hold chalk.
I really eyeball them Myself, and most customers decide for theirselves when they want them changed. I can only warn Them ahead of time, but the rest is up to Them.
1/16 to Me on the sides not the middle is a good time to change out to be safe. I really put more emphases on the sides then the middle, but I can see where others may have the oposite thinking. I guess IMO that may rely more on the players style, how hard they hit, and how far & often they hit offcenter of the cueball. Ofcoarse breaking with a low tip only increases the chance of cracking a ferrule, so that's something else I may would take into consideration.
Greg
Although this isn't My current thinking, I felt this at one time, and have many people tell me some tips play better when they are too low, and in need of changing. I have found this to be true with the style of play I use to use, but now days I never let the tip get very low on My personal cues. They tend to last Me alot longer now anyhow, because I don't use radius shapers anymore, just a tip-pik to hold chalk.
I really eyeball them Myself, and most customers decide for theirselves when they want them changed. I can only warn Them ahead of time, but the rest is up to Them.
1/16 to Me on the sides not the middle is a good time to change out to be safe. I really put more emphases on the sides then the middle, but I can see where others may have the oposite thinking. I guess IMO that may rely more on the players style, how hard they hit, and how far & often they hit offcenter of the cueball. Ofcoarse breaking with a low tip only increases the chance of cracking a ferrule, so that's something else I may would take into consideration.
Greg
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Thanks for the response.
The reason for knowing the center distance ,is to gauge the effect of tip thinkness required to still have a good feeling hit.
I find that for me the best tips are the ones that are really worn down to almost not much on the ferrule .I wondered if it just took that long to learn how the tip played or is it that they actually play better when thin, but the life is clearly just shorter.
Neil
The reason for knowing the center distance ,is to gauge the effect of tip thinkness required to still have a good feeling hit.
I find that for me the best tips are the ones that are really worn down to almost not much on the ferrule .I wondered if it just took that long to learn how the tip played or is it that they actually play better when thin, but the life is clearly just shorter.
Neil
conetip said:
Most people I talk to would aggree they play better.
The thickness may depend on the radius, but for the most part. I think I always just contributed It to the tip being well broken in. less likely to shroon, the tip is more compressed, and may hold It's shape better then earlier on, but some tips won't need as long of a break in period as others IMO.
Greg