Tips and chalk--- help needed!!!

rbpwrd240

rbpwrd240

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Silver Member
Well I think I have finnaly gotten ahold of some pre flag master to try out.:smile: Here is what I have come to learn going into this venture.

1. Not all pre flag is the same it can be the leaded formula or it could be the new formula.

2. The Flag was added after 9/11

Here is what I was wondering.

1. Is there a way to tell if I have the leaded formula?

2. When was it that they stoped adding lead?

Also....

I am in the market for a new tip and needed a chart to see what is just harder then the tiger everest.

I was thinking
Moori MH
kamui ?
Tiger Dynamite

Give me your opinions. Iv moved from lepro-Elk master-sniper-everist-????????? I am finding that area of hardness I like, I just need something thats a little sturdier then the everist.

Lastly.... (bare with me)

Once I find this perfect tip, I would like to carry several in my bag to replace on a whim. What is the best way to do this?

I know I need..
A razor blade (to cut old tip off as close to the ferrule or pad as possible.)
sanding tool (to bring the ferrule back to flat) (cue top snader machine?)
Super glue (not sure what kind to use here?) (tiger tip glue?)
Do I need a clamp of some sort or can I just use my finger to hold down the tip and wipe off the (minimal) excess glue?

Once the thing is on its time to use that porper mushroom shaver and then shape it and play. Right?

Thanks for any help here guys. Im excited to get this trial and error prosses with tips and chalks over with. :cool:
 
Masters and Triangle green chalk used to contain lead, and quite a high concentration (I don't know if it still does). The blue from those makers has never contained lead.

If I can find the site with the report of the study that found this (U of A, I think), I will post a link.
 
rbpwrd240 said:
Well I think I have finnaly gotten ahold of some pre flag master to try out.:smile: Here is what I have come to learn going into this venture.

1. Not all pre flag is the same it can be the leaded formula or it could be the new formula.

2. The Flag was added after 9/11

Here is what I was wondering.

1. Is there a way to tell if I have the leaded formula?

2. When was it that they stoped adding lead?

Also....

I am in the market for a new tip and needed a chart to see what is just harder then the tiger everest.

I was thinking
Moori MH
kamui ?
Tiger Dynamite

Give me your opinions. Iv moved from lepro-Elk master-sniper-everist-????????? I am finding that area of hardness I like, I just need something thats a little sturdier then the everist.

Lastly.... (bare with me)

Once I find this perfect tip, I would like to carry several in my bag to replace on a whim. What is the best way to do this?

I know I need..
A razor blade (to cut old tip off as close to the ferrule or pad as possible.)
sanding tool (to bring the ferrule back to flat) (cue top snader machine?)
Super glue (not sure what kind to use here?) (tiger tip glue?)
Do I need a clamp of some sort or can I just use my finger to hold down the tip and wipe off the (minimal) excess glue?

Once the thing is on its time to use that porper mushroom shaver and then shape it and play. Right?

Thanks for any help here guys. Im excited to get this trial and error prosses with tips and chalks over with. :cool:
Click to expand...

Replacing tips by hand is not easy, and it will never look as good as what can be done by a professional on a lathe.

The porper mushroom shaver does not work magic and it is easy to nick your ferrule while using it.

That being said, I use:
-a razor blade (make sure it is close to new and extremely sharp)

-The cue top sander (don't use too coarse a sandpaper, or you'll take off too much of the ferrule)

-Loctite super glue ( can be bought at home depot, lowe's, etc.. )
This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-GLUE-SUPER-GEL-SQUEEZE/dp/B001G9XBHI/ref=pd_sim_hi_5
It is a gel, but you might try using this one, which is apparently more of a liquid: http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Loctit..._5?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1265922367&sr=8-5

Not sure if it would work better or not.

You don't need a clamp, as this super glue sets in like thirty seconds. I think clamps were for glues that had to set over a few hours. I just hold it tight with my finger and use a paper towel to wipe the excess glue off (don't use your finger unless you want glue residue on it for the next day...and you'd have to be careful not to stick 2 fingers together too!)

I just use the razor blade to cut the tip to be flush with the ferrule. I have not perfected my technique, but it does the job ok. I hold the shaft vertically with the tip down, carefully align the razor with the ferrule and slice down the excess tip. I do a little at a time so I don't over cut it (you can always remove more but not add it back ;) ) I've tried the mushroom grazer but was not crazy about it.

I'd recommend practicing on a shaft you don't care too much about at first with some cheap tips until you feel comfortable doing it on your player.

Also, the sander tool clamps onto your shaft, I recommend taking a sheet of paper and wrapping it tightly around your shaft and taping it in place to protect your shaft from the clamp. You could also maybe try putting some adhesive-backed foam onto the clamp to prevent it from putting marks in your shaft.

That's a lot of information that I just kind of dumped out of my brain. PM me if you want and we can talk on the phone about some of this stuff. There are also some threads on here that I found to be useful:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=51018

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=150683

Good luck!
 
You mentioned keeping these suplies in your bag, so I assume that you think you'll be re-tipping while at the pool hall or a tournament? I just recently perfected my re-tipping technique and I would say that you should not be thinking about re-tipping your cue 'in the field' so to speak. If you are in a hurry you will not be able to do a good job. You need to allow sufficient time for the glue (even superglue) to dry and the lighting conditions in most places is not going to be what you need. I think most people will recommend keeping a few slip on tips in your bag if you aren't able to carry a second shaft. I believe that you are better to carry a second shaft and do your re-tipping at home.
 
Also note: After a tip is glued to the shaft, trimmed, and shaped, it will still take an hour or two of hits before it finally stabilizes becomes the tip it will be for the next 6 months to 2-ish years.

Thus, do not replace a tip just before "that big match". This is what extra shafts are for.
 
All good info here guys but I think you either over analize how difficult it is or put too much thought into your equipment. Thats difficult to say but to be honest your talking about leather squashing and changing the effect of your playing skils.

A. I would never use a slip on tip!!!!

B. I feel that once you find a tip that is around what you like all of them will play different but atleast similar.

C. I want to be able to replace tips in the field for multiple reasons, I was masseying the other day and my tip started to loose a layer toward the bottom section. Darn no more massey. I use on OB-2 for playing and I feel bad masseying whole 9 foot tables and multiple rails with it.

D. I go through an everest about every 2 months atleast on my playing cue. Thats playing 8 hours a day almost 7 days a week.

Guys seriusly Im a freak about my cues being exact but I think here you might have put too much empahsis on the tip and not enough on YOU.

Thanks for the help on replacing my tip thats exactly what I wanted. Im ordering the stuff soon. Im going to practice on my old players and my old action cue. Im also going to step up to the tiger dynamite tip on my playing cue.:wink:
 
rbpwrd240 said:
Well I think I have finnaly gotten ahold of some pre flag master to try out.:smile: Here is what I have come to learn going into this venture.

1. Not all pre flag is the same it can be the leaded formula or it could be the new formula.

2. The Flag was added after 9/11

Here is what I was wondering.

1. Is there a way to tell if I have the leaded formula?

2. When was it that they stoped adding lead?
Click to expand...

According to Skip Nemecek, President of Tweeten Fibre,

The Flag was put on for one reason (or two) only: patriotism after the 9/11 attacks. The possible second reason was to identify Tweeten Chalk vs knock-offs. Of course, the flag is easily copied as well.

There is no association according to Skip between the Flag and any forumula changes.

And according to Skip, the only colors that had lead were the colors that had pigments that had lead. Seems obvious, right? Only a couple of pigments had lead. Blue wasn't one of them, IIRC. So, if you're asking about blue chalk, there's no lead. They changed at the same time that lead removal became the national cry back in the 70's or 80's.

For some reason, it never seems important enough for me to write down the list of chalk colors that had lead in them. To the best of my recollection, there were only two chalk colors that Tweeten switched from a lead pigment to a non-lead pigment. To the best of my guesses, they were Red and Yellow.

Fred <~~~ will write down the list next time
 
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