Tips on how to install leather wrap

KJ Cues said:
Probably what some of us are still doing. Develop the technique and keep the $500 in your pocket.
I'd say the greatest time investment is waiting for the Con/Cem to start to set (15 min x 2).
Cutting the seam with a straight-edge, 30 sec x 2. Closing the seam, 2 min tops.
Granted there's some detailing and clean-up to be done and that's generally where the difference lies.
Spend the time on detailing and you can get close to perfect.
Try to not make the task more difficult than it needs to be.
It doesn't take expensive equipment to it right. Your technique does that.
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Amen and twice on Sunday. I'm like you. I had the privilege of meeting Mr. D'Angelo and talked to him on the phone a few times after that. It's a shame his visit in this Industry was short and I certainly understand why he stopped. He had some great ideas.
 
One more thing, that I find strange that no one has mentioned.
Get yourself a lamp with a magnifying glass, makes the task of getting clean seams, so much easier.
 
Kim Bye said:
One more thing, that I find strange that no one has mentioned.
Get yourself a lamp with a magnifying glass, makes the task of getting clean seams, so much easier.
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I use a headset for magnification, I also have 3 track light heads right above the wrap lathe. I tried the lamp/magnifier and it was always in my way, bumping it, etc..
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I use a headset for magnification, I also have 3 track light heads right above the wrap lathe. I tried the lamp/magnifier and it was always in my way, bumping it, etc..
Dave
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Yup! That works great too:)
Getting a perfect seam by just eyeballing it is next to impossible!
 
john coloccia said:
Yeah, it sounds like a great idea until you actually try it...and then you realize that it doesn't hold the wrap down well, it's difficult to get a blade in there, the wrong part of the straight edge is against the wrap, etc etc.

I did try raising the straight edge in my quick change post so that it rests on top of the cue. That didn't work any better for a number of reasons, and even if it did now the straight edge is at an angle because of the taper, so I need to start offsetting things, etc etc.

Lots of details I didn't appreciate until I started trying out different schemes. :)

One problem I still have is that the seam came out very nicely, but I'm having trouble getting it to stay down. Little lips of leather along the seam keep lifting as I play with it. It looks worse and worse every day. Maybe I didn't cut the seam at just the right angle, or something stupid like that. I think it's stuck down well. Should the edges of the seam have contact cement on them too? I didn't do that.
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The two seams need to be at the same angle, so they fit together flush. You need to do the cut with a single sided razor, and in one go, so you get a clean seam with to leather fuzz.
I use leather dye in the apropriate colour after each cut, in case the leather isn't dyed all the way through.
Remember that not all contact cement is made the same way, find one that isn't too thick and rubbery in consistency.
 
aphelps1 said:
Putting on a leather wrap is one of the hardest things to do. Without a template and experience it's just not a DIY project. Any blemish on a leather wrap install is an eyesore. My advise is to take it to an experienced repairman. Ask politely if you can watch.

Alan
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Kim Bye said:
The two seams need to be at the same angle, so they fit together flush. You need to do the cut with a single sided razor, and in one go, so you get a clean seam with to leather fuzz.
I use leather dye in the apropriate colour after each cut, in case the leather isn't dyed all the way through.
Remember that not all contact cement is made the same way, find one that isn't too thick and rubbery in consistency.
Click to expand...
 
xxcysxx said:
Hi, I'm thinking of leather wrapping my cue on my own. This is going to be my first time doing it and I've been spending time researching to avoid making as few mistakes as possible. Can you give me some tips on the following topics:

How do you get the proper radius at the ends of the leather (lengthwise) without using a template? I saw a youtube video where a guy uses a straight edge on the ends of the wrap to wrap a predator cue, wouldn't this cause a gap at the taper end and an overlap at the wider end?

What do you use to practice wrapping when starting out? I plan on buying several wooden dowels and practice on them, but they don't have the taper like the the cue.

Have you use the leather blanks from a craft store like AC Moore or Michaels? I'm thinking of using them for practice, and also on my cue. Any pros and cons of using them?

In the case when I'm unhappy with the result of the wrap on my cue, when unwrapping the dried leather, do you heat the leather to peel it off or just peel it off at room temperature? Any precautions I should take to avoid the old adhesive from picking up the wood from the cue?

Thanks
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I use the tool rest on a craftsman wood lathe to cut the seam. If you have a 4 way tool post on a metal lathe, you can mount angle iron in it.
 
R2PQZ said:
I use the tool rest on a craftsman wood lathe to cut the seam. If you have a 4 way tool post on a metal lathe, you can mount angle iron in it.
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An afterthought. If your straightedge is wide you can rest razorblade on it for both sides of the seam. No way to miscut angles.
 
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