Titlist conversion confusion

[bbb]

i didnt want to hijack the other thread related to my question so here goes
this is from a link in that thread
Hoppies has a 4 prong 2 piece construction, a straight grain wood for forearm(TAD, Bushka and Szamboti insist on straight grain wood, to them the birdseye was diseased wood... read up on woodmaking and u know what i mean..) and a hardwood for the butt. So when u have a Titlist Hoppe conversion u essentially has a 2 pc butt construction consisting of the forearm, and the butt.. The modern cue has 3 pieces of wood glued or tenoned together..the typical BCM forearm, the short splice, the maple handle, which the cuemaker normally use the inferior maple as its hidden from view by the wrap anyway... and the buttsleeve.


when you take a one piece titlist and decide to make a conversion
where do you cut it and how do you separate the prongs of the forearm parts and the butt part (that includes the points)
as an aside to make the veneers do you make the points smaller than their receptacle place on the forearm and wedge the veneers in that space???(in a full splice construction)


im obviously not a cuemker
sorry if the answers are obvious

lastly when conversions look so new how much from the original titlist is still in the cue??

thanks to all who try to clear this up for me.....:thumbup:

 

[HawaiianEye]

I'm not a cue maker, but I know a little about how conversions are done.

See my cue in this thread:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=279601&page=2

From what little I know, there are two ways conversions are done:

1: Leave the entire butt intact, add a joint, and make a new shaft
2: Keep the forearm with the maple and points, add a handle, and a buttsleeve at the end

In order to do #1, the cue must be somewhere near .850 in diameter 29-30 inches up from the butt of the cue. This will allow enough "meat" to remain on the cue for it to be turned down and a standard size joint to be added.

If the cue is too thin at the 29-30" point, then #2 is usually done. In this case, the cue is cut shorter than 29-30" on the forearm side which brings the points more forward. This allows the cue maker enough "meat" to add the joint, but then it makes the butt shorter. Therefore, a handle must be added from something other than the Titlist wood, and a butt sleeve is added after the handle.

My cue was done in the #1 method.

CUEMAKERS: Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I like knowing as much as possible about cue making.

 

[bbb]

I'm not a cue maker, but I know a little about how conversions are done.

See my cue in this thread:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=279601&page=2

From what little I know, there are two ways conversions are done:

1: Leave the butt intact, add a joint, and make a new shaft
2: Keep the forearm with the maple and points, add a handle, and a buttsleeve at the end

In order to do #1, the cue must be somewhere near .850 in diameter 29-30 inches up from the butt of the cue. This will allow enough "meat" to remain on the cue for it to be turned down and a standard size joint to be added.

If the cue is too thin at the 29-30" point, then #2 is usually done. In this case, the cue is cut shorter than 29-30" and the points are pushed more forward. This allows the cue maker enough "meat" to add the joint, but then it makes the butt shorter. Therefore, a handle must be added from something other than the Titlist wood, and a butt sleeve is added after the handle.

My cue was done in the #1 method.

CUEMAKERS: Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I like knowing as much as possible about cue making.

that was very clear
thank you