Today is the LAST DAY to join Pro Pool Academy for $17

Thanks for reminding everyone…….I didn’t realize there was a promotion, and a terrific one at that.
I showed up late for the party. The price seems too good to pass up just as a periodic refresher or as
its intended full tutorial coverage. I see people paying more, and a lot more with some brands, for a
single cube of chalk that really doesn’t do a thing to improve their game if they were already applying
chalk correctly. And if they weren’t, then that new expensive chalk was just a waste of money. But
knowledge, and of course being mindful of using it rather than abusing it…….you don’t need to draw
the cue ball most of the time…..yup, knowledge is something you don’t ever toss, replace or buy again.
 
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I am a fan of center ball and normal roll based on stroke speed. I can spin the cue ball pretty easily.
In my late teens, I became enamored with 3 cushion play. I learned the artistry aspect of speed and
spin to move the CB 3 cushions vs. 6 cushions. But that involved cue ball movement unobstructed.

In pocket billiards, we’re concerned about remaining energy in a cue ball after hitting the object ball
and more importantly, the intended paths of both afterward, i.e., pocketing the object ball & CB shape.

Of course, vertical English comes into play for follow, stop, stun & draw shots versus horizontal English.
Let’s not forget the use of both shooting high R or L shots, low R or L draw & also using reverse English.

I get all that. I know all that. Bottomline, IMO, is center ball is your friend since it will pocket lots of shots.
When you need to control the cue ball path, center ball commonly furnishes the most predictable outcome.
 
I am a fan of center ball and normal roll based on stroke speed. I can spin the cue ball pretty easily.
In my late teens, I became enamored with 3 cushion play. I learned the artistry aspect of speed and
spin to move the CB 3 cushions vs. 6 cushions. But that involved cue ball movement unobstructed.

In pocket billiards, we’re concerned about remaining energy in a cue ball after hitting the object ball
and more importantly, the intended paths of both afterward, i.e., pocketing the object ball & CB shape.

Of course, vertical English comes into play for follow, stop, stun & draw shots versus horizontal English.
Let’s not forget the use of both shooting high R or L shots, low R or L draw & also using reverse English.

I get all that. I know all that. Bottomline, IMO, is center ball is your friend since it will pocket lots of shots.
When you need to control the cue ball path, center ball commonly furnishes the most predictable outcome.
I might have joined that academy also. I’m going to look into is either way maxeberle.

Thank you for the insight on that one Bav. Maybe you read my post on draw shots in reply to you before I deleted it. Ill follow you up
by saying I definitely use center a lot more than anything when playing for something. Not when giving a spot.(I don’t want them to get better-lol) When the person is “better than me” per se center is good. But now when given the choice draw or follow? Follow 1-1/2 rail or draw 3. I’ll draw 3.
 
I might have joined that academy also. I’m going to look into is either way maxeberle.

Thank you for the insight on that one Bav. Maybe you read my post on draw shots in reply to you before I deleted it. Ill follow you up
by saying I definitely use center a lot more than anything when playing for something. Not when giving a spot.(I don’t want them to get better-lol) When the person is “better than me” per se center is good. But now when given the choice draw or follow? Follow 1-1/2 rail or draw 3. I’ll draw 3.
Follow or draw depends on how the pockets have been playing and the amount of speed I’ll use playing the shot
with draw or follow for position. A hard draw stroke on a distant object ball on a table with tight pockets can often
result in the corner pocket death rattle. That same shot played with a slower object ball roll goes in but you don’t
wind up with the shape you had in mind. So then you start looking at can I get there using follow and is the table
playing fast, etc. All of this comes into our subliminal pool psyche and it can influence our shot selection and the
way we play it. Pocketing the object ball is the easy part. Relocating the CB into the shape we want is the hard part.
 
Follow or draw depends on how the pockets have been playing and the amount of speed I’ll use playing the shot
with draw or follow for position. A hard draw stroke on a distant object ball on a table with tight pockets can often
result in the corner pocket death rattle. That same shot played with a slower object ball roll goes in but you don’t
wind up with the shape you had in mind. So then you start looking at can I get there using follow and is the table
playing fast, etc. All of this comes into our subliminal pool psyche and it can influence our shot selection and the
way we play it. Pocketing the object ball is the easy part. Relocating the CB into the shape we want is the hard part.
I’m getting old I guess. Cause if I have to think that much I’ll just play the safety. Haha.
 
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