Trash or Treasure?

[Biloxi Boy]

We evolve. At some points, I did not use a cue case -- just grab and go. I also used to grind my shaft with the old Scotch Brite green pads. Never saw a jp until in the 90's when I was told their purpose was to keep the insides of joints clean. Now I have them on all my cues because I think they protect the joints, etc.

 

[Mensabum]

We evolve. At some points, I did not use a cue case -- just grab and go. I also used to grind my shaft with the old Scotch Brite green pads. Never saw a jp until in the 90's when I was told their purpose was to keep the insides of joints clean. Now I have them on all my cues because I think they protect the joints, etc.

Let's here it for all the poor bastards who used scotch Brite on their shafts bcuz we didn't know any better at the time, and They Worked!! Lol.

 

[Mensabum]

We evolve. At some points, I did not use a cue case -- just grab and go. I also used to grind my shaft with the old Scotch Brite green pads. Never saw a jp until in the 90's when I was told their purpose was to keep the insides of joints clean. Now I have them on all my cues because I think they protect the joints, etc.

I've seen players use beeswax and other thread lubricants on their cues for tight joints. TP's do keep junk from accumulating in there. Wax is sticky and over time will attract dust and lint, all manner of small goodies. It would probably take 20 years to negatively affect the threads, but why take a chance when TP's solve that issue??

 

[boogieman]

I've seen players use beeswax and other thread lubricants on their cues for tight joints. TP's do keep junk from accumulating in there. Wax is sticky and over time will attract dust and lint, all manner of small goodies. It would probably take 20 years to negatively affect the threads, but why take a chance when TP's solve that issue??

I bought my first real cue, a McDermott with money I saved from my first job. The threads were wood like they are and I was paranoid about cross threading or binding. I rubbed beeswax on the metal threads and worked it in by screwing and unscrewing. I played with that cue for 20 years and it was never an issue. In fact the wood threads on it look almost new, where if you look at a random one from that era they are usually in worse shape.

I don't know what to do with this info but beeswax doesn't hurt the threads any or cause them to be dirty. If anything it protects them. Now if we're talking soap (especially non lard based like detergent soaps) then it can draw moisture. A soft wax would probably be bad also.

 

[Mensabum]

I bought my first real cue, a McDermott with money I saved from my first job. The threads were wood like they are and I was paranoid about cross threading or binding. I rubbed beeswax on the metal threads and worked it in by screwing and unscrewing. I played with that cue for 20 years and it was never an issue. In fact the wood threads on it look almost new, where if you look at a random one from that era they are usually in worse shape.

I don't know what to do with this info but beeswax doesn't hurt the threads any or cause them to be dirty. If anything it protects them. Now if we're talking soap (especially non lard based like detergent soaps) then it can draw moisture. A soft wax would probably be bad also.

I agree w most of that, but some players I know are dirty grubby sob's with all manner of toe jam, pocket jam and other goodies accumulating in there. Lol. Like I said it would probably take 20 years to affect it, if you got some type of grit or sand like substance in there. Just enuf to cause it to loose up a tad.
This would be the extreme of course.
A nylon insert in one of my older Heublers' looks like it's been sanded down and requires constant tightening. Whoever had it B4 me didn't use TPs on that one, that's for sure.
Beeswax helps until it doesn't. I hear uni locks can get jammed up from crap getting in there.