I have been using a stinger to jump- got a new bunjee jump today and cant get the cb up at all. Should I work this tip more, or my technique? I'm puzzled -any help/ ideas?
Trouble getting airborne w/new Bunjee
- Thread starter Buckeyejim
- Start date
The only techn. I can use is the dart method - cant rais shoulder straight up since shoulder surgery '97. I'm really frustrated because the stinger worked so well- thanks for your help Fred, I know bunjees are good thats what really irks me
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Possibly the tip isn't hard enough. You shouldn't even touch a jump cue tip to shape it or anything.
or
You might be hitting too high up on the cue ball and trapping it between the stick and the slate.
or
You might be hitting too high up on the cue ball and trapping it between the stick and the slate.
Buckeyejim said:
This should be some kind of testament as to why one jumper is technically superior to another. But, that'll be for someone else to argue
I've had a bad shoulder and elbow for 10 years or more. So, I thought I could only do the dart method as well. The biggest tips I can tell you are to
grip at the joint - I think you get better leverage and control of the jump stick if you grip it right around the joint area.
loosen your wrist, - The dart method at its best is more like a throwing motion. The only way, for example, for those super tight 1mm jump shots to work is for the shooter to physically let go of the jump cue at impact!
have a good bridge length, - I see people bridging entirely too close to the cueball when trying to use an elevated bridge. I suggest to put your bridge hand 6-8" away from the ball, and then make a bridge. That way, your forced to pile up a bridge high enough to cover that distance, and the result is a long enough bridge. The more length, the less emphasis there is to try to stroke the cue so fast.
don't elevate too high - higher elevation can get a higher jump, but it also requires better techniqe. Most jump shots with the dart don't require more than 45° elevation. 30° is probably closer to it.
aim at the core - I like telling people to wear a hat with a brim so that they can only see the cueball. Then, I tell them to aim at the core of the cueball, rather than below it as if trying to nip draw. When you get comfortable jumping at the core, then you can practice jumping with a little draw.
Tom Simpson has a great instruction article on dart jumping, but be advised that he uses a Stinger.
Tom Simpson on Dart Jumping
Fred
I had the opposite problem, I had a bunjee that I could jump great with, with the stinger I could jump, but not as easily. My problem was the tip on the stinger, it was completely flat. I don't mean quarter radius, I mean flat like a pancake. I looked at the tip on some other stringers, they were not flat like mine. I shaped the tip and the problem was solved.
With the tip on the stinger fixed I find them pretty equaly in ease of jumping.
With the tip on the stinger fixed I find them pretty equaly in ease of jumping.
Seems to be a contradiction in the shape/prep of the tip. I thank everyone for their input- it did help calm me down somewhat at least! I am going to practice more on my tech.(thanks,Fred) Meantime I've got to get another Stinger to see what is really goin' on...More input on the tip may make things clearer too. Thanks Jim
Buckeyejim said:
Keep in mind that my tip problem was not a normal thing. It did not lose shape or anything, it was not shaped when I got it. Apparently, it was sent out and the maker forgot to shape the tip first. I have never heard of anybody else having this type of problem.
mthornto said:
There can be a huge difference in the tips of the J&J jump/break cues. They work fine (espescially for the money) but their tolerances are way out there. I had a two piece phenolic ferrule/tip where one side of the phenolic tip was a good millimeter higher than the other side. Took me half an hour with 150 grit sandpaper to get it into shape. I shape mine flatter than quarter radius, about ball radius. I've seen five or six J&J's and they are all different in tip radius when they leave the factory.
gr. Dave
Hi Jim -
I have the same jump cue as you (bunjee) and I can tell you there is nothing wrong with the tip. Thought I have never used a stinger jumper. I can tell you that the Bunjee jump cue is great! I would even say it is right up there with the jacoby jump cue which is one of the best.
I use the dart method (like you) about 97% of the time and get great results there is really nothing I cant do with it. Its as good as any high end jump cue and much much better than alot of other jump cues on the market. dont worry you picked a good one, just practice. good luck!
I have the same jump cue as you (bunjee) and I can tell you there is nothing wrong with the tip. Thought I have never used a stinger jumper. I can tell you that the Bunjee jump cue is great! I would even say it is right up there with the jacoby jump cue which is one of the best.
I use the dart method (like you) about 97% of the time and get great results there is really nothing I cant do with it. Its as good as any high end jump cue and much much better than alot of other jump cues on the market. dont worry you picked a good one, just practice. good luck!
Cornerman said:
Fred, I guess these two points go hand in hand. However I don't see how I could get even a 30° angle at 6-8 inches from the cueball unless I was on the rail. Am I missing something in your description?
Steve.