Tung Oil

[MCP]

I took an old cue and sanded off the urethane it was looking dingy and yellow
Used 200 grid Sand paper. I Removed all the dust and wiped down the wood and
Instead of refinishing with urethane I decided to use Tung oil on the cue the wood looks amazing. I let it dry for about a week and buffed it with a clean cloth.
Any thoughts pros/cons......
Thanks
MCP

 

[desi2960]

tung

You were able to get the wood smooth with 200? I believe tung makes a good finish, but it needs to be refinished. As the finish will wear off after a time

 

[Thomas Wayne]

I took an old cue and sanded off the urethane it was looking dingy and yellow
Used 200 grid Sand paper. I Removed all the dust and wiped down the wood and
Instead of refinishing with urethane I decided to use Tung oil on the cue the wood looks amazing. I let it dry for about a week and buffed it with a clean cloth.
Any thoughts pros/cons......
Thanks
MCP

I've never seen "200 grid" [sic] sandpaper. 220 grit, yes; 200 gri[t], no...

"Tung Oil" is kind of a generic term used by paint manufacturers for any "clear" finish that contains some amount of tung oil, but they all vary greatly in quality of finish. If you learn how to apply a true tung oil finish - using pure tung oil and mixing the solvent ratios yourself - you can get a great finish - very clear and very durable.

However, such finishing techniques are almost a lost art, unless you can find copies of old manuscripts that teach the process or an old-time furniture guy to mentor you. Moreover, a masterful tung oil finish can take several weeks to complete and dry, and the end result will NOT be "better" than the catalyzed auto finishes virtually all professional cuemakers currently use. And since the auto finishes can be ready to go in a day or so (a week at the very most), it's no wonder applying a true tung oil finish has become a lost art.

TW

 

[MCP]

I've never seen "200 grid" [sic] sandpaper. 220 grit, yes; 200 gri[t], no...

"Tung Oil" is kind of a generic term used by paint manufacturers for any "clear" finish that contains some amount of tung oil, but they all vary greatly in quality of finish. If you learn how to apply a true tung oil finish - using pure tung oil and mixing the solvent ratios yourself - you can get a great finish - very clear and very durable.

However, such finishing techniques are almost a lost art, unless you can find copies of old manuscripts that teach the process or an old-time furniture guy to mentor you. Moreover, a masterful tung oil finish can take several weeks to complete and dry, and the end result will NOT be "better" than the catalyzed auto finishes virtually all professional cuemakers currently use. And since the auto finishes can be ready to go in a day or so (a week at the very most), it's no wonder applying a true tung oil finish has become a lost art.
TW

typo-- Grit --- photo attached-- cue is an Old Orchid USA .
thanks for the feedback..
MCP