Some wood educate themselves and other wood remain ignorant to their core. Be it maple or purpleheart.Well board does fall within my Master of categories. Growing up adjacent a saw mill to making fine custom furniture.
Cole's senses were so fine tuned that, uh well on a meeting 6 months after I bought my cue from his back up butt and my select from his 5 back up shafts. Cole sais, "I wouldn't be able to shoot with that cue now." So take it for what you want. Every cue has a personality. To be ignorant of; the variables that effect the hit ???? Bill Stroud made Stradivarious cues. His knowledge combined with craftsmanship made for some beautiful instruments.
I did have a friend that got an experimental McDermott with ivory joint and ferrule, FOR $250!!!!! Yikes I hit some balls with it and it definitely talked to me. It was to lust for. Lucky Son of a gun.Bill Stroud cues started at 1500, Walmart cues start at 20. So if you can't tell the difference......
Type of joint, material and pin type
- Thread starter fish2
- Start date
Technically you can wire a cue with all kinds of tactile feedback sensors but maybe it's the complete experience of pool that completes the so called confirmation bias loop. Can't be done blind as far as I can tell.
Wood is resonant, and I think it really comes down to the balance and taper or a combination of both. I like to play with a cue that has
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Don't forget the density and grain patern. Working with maple, a split is better than sawn stock. A tight grain should be stiffer and heavier than a piece milled to the same specs with wider grain.
A true craftsman would start with a log then cut to length. Then split then cure to the proper moisture. Turn to an oversize then cure again before final turning. Simple
A Master knows the best part of the log for the desired shaft character.