Uni Loc and clones

[William]

I have read the descriptions, but still wondering. What is the difference between the Ghost Pin and Bullet Pin, vs. the original Uni-Loc?
Also, I thought I seen a cheaper looking Uni-loc look alike. Did someone custom make that or are there similar systems out there?
Thanks as always for any replies.

 

[KJ Cues]

I hope you appreciate this, I'm on dial-up.

http://www.cuestik.com/store/?DEPARTMENT_ID=96

 

[William]

I do. I read that. What is the real difference?

 

[KJ Cues]

I'm really not sure that I know how to answer this.
I'm pretty certain that they are of different wghts. and the price is probably different as well, I didn't check.
Aside from the fact that the pins are made of stainless steel and the inserts are made of brass and they all connect with 1 to 1-1/4 turns, I really don't know what you mean by their differences.
They are obviously physically different in their dimensions.
You may have also read that they are not interchangeable.

To me anyway, your question is a little vague. Could you be more specific?
I'd like to help you if you can tell me what you're looking for.

 

[William]

Thanks KJ. I have used the standard one. Why would I use the other two over the standard one? When would I want the ghost pin or bullet pin over the standard?

 

[McChen]

the ghost is a lot heavier (huge brass insert), so you might use that for a more foward balanced cue.

the original uniloc had very close tolerances, and sometimes that caused trouble. a tiny bit of debris in the joint could cause the thing to lock up pretty terribly. i've seen it happen many times. the ghost and bullet aren't as precise (which makes it cheaper topo) and won't lock up like that.

 

[KJ Cues]

Thanks KJ. I have used the standard one. Why would I use the other two over the standard one? When would I want the ghost pin or bullet pin over the standard?

I should have said this in my previous post.
They all do the same job so it boils down to style and preference.
Is one better than the other? Matter of opinion.
One thing should be obvious. The orig. QR pin, being a longer pin, has most of it's length installed in the forearm, about 2-1/4". The other 2 aren't installed as deep.
The Ghost pin has nothing above the joint collar. It's totally recessed.
You can't see the pin when looking at the cue sideways, hence the name: Ghost. But on the other hand, the insert is now huge and protrudes just that much more.

I think that about covers it.

 

[William]

Thank you both for the help. If you were going to make a JB cue, which one would you use at the JB joint ?

 

[KJ Cues]

Ah.......the plot thickens. No offense but this thread is starting to read like a cheap mystery novel. What I mean by that is, why didn't you state in your very first post that you were contemplating a pin for a J/B cue?

Now I get to ask a question. Are you building the cue or are you having the cue built for you? I figure we'd cut right to the 'chase' and save further speculation. Your answer will allow me to wrap this up in short order.

 

[William]

You are right. I should have said that. The full story... I will build it, but only have experience with the standard pins and this would be my first JB cue. I went to order the pins I am familiar with, and woah, I see two other kind. The bullet and the Ghost... and that is where the questions came in.

 

[KJ Cues]

OK, here's why I asked who's going to build this cue, you or someone else.
You, the builder, should have a working knowledge of cue construction. As a player, you should be able to easily understand that the break cue will see more force put against it in just 1 shot than your game cue will in the entire set. The break cue can see an enormous amount of force.
Now, you've seen the pics and I've stated previously that the orig. Uni-QR pin is set deeper in the cue (approx. 2-1/4") whereas the other 2 pins are set into the cue at only 3/4" IIRC.
The very fact of setting the pin deeper into the cue, by itself, will make the connection/joint stronger. Particularly in my break cue, I want all the solid construction I can get. I have this mindset with all the cues that I build but here is an instance where it is really put to the test.

Now that I understand what you're wanting to do, I'm going to suggest, of the 3 you've selected, the orig. Uni-QR. I'm not going to recommend something that I don't use myself.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=95215

You'll notice that I add additional strength to the joint with the use of phenolic collars.

Hope this helps.