The Uni-lock was developed for the convenience of putting the cue together, faster for the most part. Some cuemakers and sales people,will use this, as a selling point. This is wrong in my opinion. It only takes a few more seconds to screw the shaft on. I personally, will not give up a properly balanced cue for convenience of speed. Some cuemakers will just add a uni-lock system to a cue that's already built. Most are just selling cues, and not taking in mind that your the person, who has to play with it, like it or not. They do not build "high" performance cues.
A quality cuemaker will weigh all parts of the cue and add or subtract weight at the right place so the cue will not be butt or front heavy or over all to heavy by adding weight to have it balanced properly.
I take pride in building a cue that one can play well, with it no matter what level he or she may be. I respect my customers needs. After all, it's there money.
I weigh each piece of wood , front, handle, butt seleve. Knowing the customers spec's I then can get all parts to the proper weight and balance the cue as need be.
I build my cues with a little forward balance. Doing this, the player can draw the ball without getting to low on the cue ball, and also you don't need to get to high for a follow shot. Both shots will be a little easier.
JOINT PINS,
A rule of thumb for pin lenght, is take the dia. of the pin and mulitply that dia. times ,3.25 to 3.50 times for the proper lenght. This is not the case with the uni-lock. It's a quick-connect, with along pilot pin. [Pretty heavy].
My joint pin is .346" in dia. and is 1.125" in lenght. Any more lenght, is not doing anything but adding weight to the cue.
The uni-lock is a turn or two, and it's on. Adding more weight than it should, so now it's front heavy.
Steel joints are used by some of the best cuemakers out there. I perfer wood to wood. I feel that the wood to wood gives you a better feel of the cue ball, rather than a joint made of steel.
The shock wave after you hit the ball is some what differant with steel as with wood to wood. You tend to "feel" the shot easier with wood joints. However, you can in time "feel" the shot with a steel joint as well. It takes a little adjustment time going from one to the other.
Don't take this wrong, there are some great cuemakers [ production and custom] who do use steel joint and wood to wood.
It's your money your spending. Stick to your spec's.
Don't just take anything off the shelf, so to speak.
Weight bolts,
Some cuemakers can change the weight bolt for you. I disagree with this. When a cue is built, it should have the weight and balance point dead on. Purchase a cue with proper weight and balance from the start. Some cuemakers or sales people, will change the bolt, by doing this, it changes the weight and balance point. Not a good idea.
You can not change the bolt in my cues. I use a 5/16" nylon machine screw in the butt of my cues. This is used to fasten the bumper screw on the buut plate only. My cues are built with the weight and balance points fixed, to fit my customers spec's.
If you order a cue from a production shop, be sure to tell them what your requirements are. They will do there best to meet your requirments. The same goes for the custom cuemaker.
If not, order from someone you feel they know what they are talking about and you can trust, who will work with you, and build a cue to your spec's. The custom cue may cost a bit more, as a result, you now have a cue built for "you" and not just anyone who comes along. If you don't find a production or custom cue in "stock" to your likings, it's better to order a cue and wait a spell for the right cue, than just buying off the shelf. Remember it's your money.
Being at ease with your cue, will make you a better shot maker and Player. Not matter, steel or wood, do what is right for you.
rock & roll
blud
A quality cuemaker will weigh all parts of the cue and add or subtract weight at the right place so the cue will not be butt or front heavy or over all to heavy by adding weight to have it balanced properly.
I take pride in building a cue that one can play well, with it no matter what level he or she may be. I respect my customers needs. After all, it's there money.
I weigh each piece of wood , front, handle, butt seleve. Knowing the customers spec's I then can get all parts to the proper weight and balance the cue as need be.
I build my cues with a little forward balance. Doing this, the player can draw the ball without getting to low on the cue ball, and also you don't need to get to high for a follow shot. Both shots will be a little easier.
JOINT PINS,
A rule of thumb for pin lenght, is take the dia. of the pin and mulitply that dia. times ,3.25 to 3.50 times for the proper lenght. This is not the case with the uni-lock. It's a quick-connect, with along pilot pin. [Pretty heavy].
My joint pin is .346" in dia. and is 1.125" in lenght. Any more lenght, is not doing anything but adding weight to the cue.
The uni-lock is a turn or two, and it's on. Adding more weight than it should, so now it's front heavy.
Steel joints are used by some of the best cuemakers out there. I perfer wood to wood. I feel that the wood to wood gives you a better feel of the cue ball, rather than a joint made of steel.
The shock wave after you hit the ball is some what differant with steel as with wood to wood. You tend to "feel" the shot easier with wood joints. However, you can in time "feel" the shot with a steel joint as well. It takes a little adjustment time going from one to the other.
Don't take this wrong, there are some great cuemakers [ production and custom] who do use steel joint and wood to wood.
It's your money your spending. Stick to your spec's.
Don't just take anything off the shelf, so to speak.
Weight bolts,
Some cuemakers can change the weight bolt for you. I disagree with this. When a cue is built, it should have the weight and balance point dead on. Purchase a cue with proper weight and balance from the start. Some cuemakers or sales people, will change the bolt, by doing this, it changes the weight and balance point. Not a good idea.
You can not change the bolt in my cues. I use a 5/16" nylon machine screw in the butt of my cues. This is used to fasten the bumper screw on the buut plate only. My cues are built with the weight and balance points fixed, to fit my customers spec's.
If you order a cue from a production shop, be sure to tell them what your requirements are. They will do there best to meet your requirments. The same goes for the custom cuemaker.
If not, order from someone you feel they know what they are talking about and you can trust, who will work with you, and build a cue to your spec's. The custom cue may cost a bit more, as a result, you now have a cue built for "you" and not just anyone who comes along. If you don't find a production or custom cue in "stock" to your likings, it's better to order a cue and wait a spell for the right cue, than just buying off the shelf. Remember it's your money.
Being at ease with your cue, will make you a better shot maker and Player. Not matter, steel or wood, do what is right for you.
rock & roll
blud
