Uni-Lok joints
- Thread starter david(tx)
- Start date
Funny you should ask. I asked a very similar question about a day ago.
Uni-Loc hardware is expensive and due to the construction of the pin/threads, extra care must be taken when installing.
I`m thinking about charging more for installing Uni-Loc, than regular 3/8-10/11 and 5/16-14/18.
Uni-Loc hardware is expensive and due to the construction of the pin/threads, extra care must be taken when installing.
I`m thinking about charging more for installing Uni-Loc, than regular 3/8-10/11 and 5/16-14/18.
Schmelke charges about 45 dollars more for Uni-Lok than for their quick release joint , which i think is a 3/8 x 18 . I'd consider it but i don't know if they are the only ones who use it . McDermott has a quick release they use but don't know if it is the same as Schmelke. Schmelke has good prices for a domestic cue maker , just don't want a quick release that would have to be ordered special if i wanted to try other after market shafts .
I noticed the Chinese cue company that makes cues that American cue makers market as cheaper cues and makes Players , Lucasi and Dufferin has some lower priced cues with Uni-Lok is the reason i asked , thanks for the response .
My thoughts, may drift a little from the topic, but why choose any quick release joint?
I can see why you would use one on the butt of a J/B cue, but how many times do you really assemble/disassemble your cue during a night of playing?
I would go with a standard joint pin, the 10 seconds it takes to screw the cue together is fine by me.
But if you are dead set on a quick release joint. I would choose Uni-Loc as it is the QR standard.
You don`t want to be in the situation that you only can get aftermarket shafts from one supplier.
And besides I hate stocking all those BS joint pin drivers...
I would go with a standard joint pin, the 10 seconds it takes to screw the cue together is fine by me.
Yes , i thought about that , guess you just get caught up in what everybody else does .
My late mentor was working on his UniLoc jointed cue one night.
Then the shaft would not come off the cue. A piece of brass ( he found out later ) was between the screw and the insert.
It would not past one little turn.
I was scared he'd destroy the cue as he was really torquing it.
Then he just dropped some gun oil down the shaft's face.
The morning after, the shaft finally came loose.
He swore off UniLoc from then and never used it again.
Then the shaft would not come off the cue. A piece of brass ( he found out later ) was between the screw and the insert.
It would not past one little turn.
I was scared he'd destroy the cue as he was really torquing it.
Then he just dropped some gun oil down the shaft's face.
The morning after, the shaft finally came loose.
He swore off UniLoc from then and never used it again.
For the most part. Peope (cue makers / repair people) will choose what they believe is best for their cues.
For uni loc quick release?
1- Don't want to do it, and or don't agree with.
2-People use what they believe in.
3- What they don't fully understand.
4-Proper tooling. (mandrels, etc.)
Uni loc Q/R has more rules than the average joint screw because it has to be wet sanded and polished before installing it. This prevents trouble down the road. It is also the responsibility of the customer to at least once a month ot two. To use a Q tip with something as simple as rubbing alcohol on it, and swirl it around the inner of the brass insert to eliminate dirt build up. Educating customers is a must.
My prefered joint screws for my cues are.
Old school brass 3/8X10. I have the right tap. Hole size .285 not 5/16.
Brass radial ball screw. (standard)
Uni loc quick release.
5/16X14 is my last choice.
For uni loc quick release?
1- Don't want to do it, and or don't agree with.
2-People use what they believe in.
3- What they don't fully understand.
4-Proper tooling. (mandrels, etc.)
Uni loc Q/R has more rules than the average joint screw because it has to be wet sanded and polished before installing it. This prevents trouble down the road. It is also the responsibility of the customer to at least once a month ot two. To use a Q tip with something as simple as rubbing alcohol on it, and swirl it around the inner of the brass insert to eliminate dirt build up. Educating customers is a must.
My prefered joint screws for my cues are.
Old school brass 3/8X10. I have the right tap. Hole size .285 not 5/16.
Brass radial ball screw. (standard)
Uni loc quick release.
5/16X14 is my last choice.
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I agree with everything Mike states other than his choice of pins. When I first seen a radial pin I immediately fell in love with it. I had never seen a alignment barrell on a pin and believe it is ingenious. It makes installing a pin in the butt a no brainer. Just follow the directions and it will be exactly centered and straight. Sherm and myself had a machine shop make us a thousand, identical pins out of brass. Since then you can get about any pin with a barrell. But I still have many of the radial so that is still my favorite. 3/8-10 and 5/16-14 are my next choices.
When building a custom I always used what the customer decided.
Dick
What about the Viking QR , hate to put you on the spot . :wink:
I'm not Mike but unless they have changed it since the last time I made a shaft for one, it is a extremely easy one to achieve.
Dick
Not on the spot at all. The Viking quick release as well as the Pechauer are very good. Let me also add McDermott. McDermott use to offer 3 quick release joints. Now they have settled on two. Their own 3/8X16 which is part of the actual stainless joint. They also offer the standard uni loc.
Thanks for response .