Unilock Joints

hejests

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey guys,

All things remaining equal on a cue, what would be the difference between say having a 5/16 x 18 joint vs unilock? What don't you like about unilock vs other joint configurations?

Somewhat unrelated question, anyone know what kind of finish predator uses on their SP's? It feels a little plastic-ish to me.

Serge
 
IMHO, I think that the Uni-Loc joint system is one of the worst on the market today. From an engineering perspective, the 5/16 x 18 is far superior. It's down-side however is that it takes 18 turns to move 1". Conversely, the appeal of the Uni-Loc is 1 turn and you're connected but therein lies it's weakness, just 1 thread holding your shaft to the handle. I've had people with Uni-Locs come to me saying that the shaft will sometimes loosen during play for no apparent reason and I've had others come to me saying that sometimes their cue will lockup and they can't get it apart. Both issues are a direct result of this pin/insert.
The appeal of the Uni-Loc is that it is 'trick' & one of the newest advancements(?) in cues. I humbly submit that just because something is new or 'trick' doesn't mean it's better.
Uni-Loc parts are expensive, comparitively speaking, and can be difficult to install and equally difficult to work on.
Now having said all this, I'm certain this thread will ignite with opinion. To add more fuel to the fire, I'm someone who works on Uni-Loc jointed cues every day. No offense to anyone but the question was asked.
As to the Predator finish, I haven't asked anyone at Predator but my guess would be that it's ultra-violet at least that's the impression I've gotten from doing finish repair work. It should be noted that Predator has had several different large scale builders build their handles and I would think that the builder would shoot whatever finish they normally do. This could vary from builder to builder.
 
I second the joint coming loose. I own two predators I got when I first stared playing(before I new about custom cues) and I dont like the pin at all. I will change them someday when I refinish them. I have had them come loose may times. I would hit a shot and think that sounded like shit I bet the shaft is coming loose(i was never wrong). Now uni loc makes the radial and that is a solid nice hitting pin. I really dont have a opion on the 5/16-18 pin.

Dustin
 
It is a great joint pin when used for what it is best for.
Jump break joints that need to come apart quickly.
It is not a good shaft to butt choice for the reasons KJ just gave.

To overcome the lock-up problem just take some 600 grit and take a bit off the unthreaded part of the pin.

IMHO ... nothing is better than a Radial pin and a flat face joint.
 
I aggree on the feel, I grew up on 5/16 steel jointed, and not alot of difference to me in the uniloc steel jointed. of the ones I shot with I have not had them come loose, altough one of My habits is to tighten the joint every once in while during play. just a habit of mine that could have something to do with My experiences being different.

I have though recieved new inserts and pins that did'nt have that really smooth fit, The one where you stick your finger on the back of the insert, pull the pin out of the insert, It backs out smooth, and makes that pop sound. I have had some i had to clean the ID up on. the good ones almost seem like a perfect match as if they were honed for a match with each other.
 
I combat the shaft locking up, you should clean the insert once a week with a Q-tip dip in rubbing alcohol. That is what Predator reccommends. It clears the dirt, grime, and brass dust that become maleable and eventually locks it up.

I have never been a fan of the Uniloc joint except for in the jump joint. The "feel" of a joint has to do, in part, with the amount of contact between the pin and the insert. That is why people like the Radial pin so much. It boasts something around 95% contact. That is hard to accomplish with a thread and half.
 
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