Unplayed cues coming out of storage

jrhendy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have about 15 cues that were put in storage in cases over 20 years ago. Some are straight, some are not and the biggest problem on the butts is you can feel a ridge on the buttcap where the wood has moved/shrunk?. Some of the cues have a wobble that you can’t see rolling them, but is visible spinning them on a lathe, anywhere from 10/1,000th to 30/1,000th when we checked with a dial indicator. Most of the wobble was at the bottom of the forearm on the butts and about 10” up from the joint on the shafts.

What is a minimum tolerance level you would consider a cue and a shaft to have to be playable, and and what point would you say give up on it. I do intend to sell these and while the problem may not show up rolling them, now that I am aware of it, I will cut the price accordingly and mention it up front.

John Henderson
 

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I have about 15 cues that were put in storage in cases over 20 years ago. Some are straight, some are not and the biggest problem on the butts is you can feel a ridge on the buttcap where the wood has moved/shrunk?. Some of the cues have a wobble that you can’t see rolling them, but is visible spinning them on a lathe, anywhere from 10/1,000th to 30/1,000th when we checked with a dial indicator. Most of the wobble was at the bottom of the forearm on the butts and about 10” up from the joint on the shafts.

What is a minimum tolerance level you would consider a cue and a shaft to have to be playable, and and what point would you say give up on it. I do intend to sell these and while the problem may not show up rolling them, now that I am aware of it, I will cut the price accordingly and mention it up front.

John Henderson

john
i am lll on onepocket.org
i respect you greatly for your honesty in asking your questions
hope i get to buy you dinner and a drink one day
larry
 

triley41395

You'll shoot your eye out
Silver Member
I have about 15 cues that were put in storage in cases over 20 years ago. Some are straight, some are not and the biggest problem on the butts is you can feel a ridge on the buttcap where the wood has moved/shrunk?

What is a minimum tolerance level you would consider a cue and a shaft to have to be playable, and and what point would you say give up on it. I do intend to sell these and while the problem may not show up rolling them, now that I am aware of it, I will cut the price accordingly and mention it up front.

John Henderson

John,first I am not a cuemaker so this is just my opinion. I have seen many cues for sale that say they have about a credit card of roll.most credit cards are. 040-.055 thick. You can give the amount of roll for each cue but I certainly wouldn't say any of these you should give up trying to sell if that's what you want. Most players, probably 99.999%, couldn't tell a cue has. 010 roll and in my opinion that's a straight cue. A lot of factors would go into how much. 030 would effect price but the main one would probably be the maker and design. For example there are many collectors that would love to have a beautiful Haley even if it were out .030 . The shrinking around the butt cap should not really effect how it plays but could effect the resale a little, I haven't seen one so bad that it couldn't be corrected with a refinish but I'm sure there are some out there. In my opinion if you list them with what you honestly think the faults are you'll find a buyer. Wether it's to shoot with on a regular basis, just for using in their home room or for display just depends on how much it's out and who the maker is. You should post some pics in the gallery , you'll probably get some better options than mine.
 

Deruki

Well-known member
I have about 15 cues that were put in storage in cases over 20 years ago. Some are straight, some are not and the biggest problem on the butts is you can feel a ridge on the buttcap where the wood has moved/shrunk?. Some of the cues have a wobble that you can’t see rolling them, but is visible spinning them on a lathe, anywhere from 10/1,000th to 30/1,000th when we checked with a dial indicator. Most of the wobble was at the bottom of the forearm on the butts and about 10” up from the joint on the shafts.

What is a minimum tolerance level you would consider a cue and a shaft to have to be playable, and and what point would you say give up on it. I do intend to sell these and while the problem may not show up rolling them, now that I am aware of it, I will cut the price accordingly and mention it up front.

John Henderson

Finish itself has come a long ways in 20 years. If these aren't so collectible that a refinish would kill the value I agree a refinish would take care of most of the flaws.
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
If the wobble is not visible rolling them, they're probably straighter than most cues. It's not uncommon to see production cues with more than .010-.030 wobble even brand new.
 

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The only part of a cue that actually needs to be straight is from the minimum bridge point to the maximum bridge point plus the little amount until the ball has been struck. Even in that area, a difference of straightness of 0.5mm or 20 thou will not be a factor in making the shot.
A curved shaft is probably an advantage to some players, as it can correct for the bad arm action.
A wavy profile of error is the worse in my view.
They will be worth what someone is willing to pay, saying that, it may take some time to find the right buyer who will appreciate what you have for sale.
 
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