Hello, Can anyone suggest a good source for V-Groove router bits. Also does the 1/4 vrs 1/2 shank make any difference. I would assume a little less vibration but how much? Most of the router bits I have found cut about a 1/2 inch cut. I think thats a bit narrow for points. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks and happiness. Mark
V-Groove Cutters
- Thread starter kiinstructor
- Start date
Cutting V-grooves
I tried a 3/4" v-groove bit, but didn't like the way it cut. The CFM at the point is basically zero so the bottom of the vee needs some work before gluing in the points.
I made a bracket to mount my router at 45 degrees and now use a 1/2" straight router bit. It's a little more trouble to set up (getting the vee on center), but makes a much nicer cut. The straight router bits are also cheaper
I tried a 3/4" v-groove bit, but didn't like the way it cut. The CFM at the point is basically zero so the bottom of the vee needs some work before gluing in the points.
I made a bracket to mount my router at 45 degrees and now use a 1/2" straight router bit. It's a little more trouble to set up (getting the vee on center), but makes a much nicer cut. The straight router bits are also cheaper
I have seen acceptable results from a straight cut router bit used in a router mounted at a 45 degree angle, but for the best accuracy I would reccomend a double angle cutter. For even more accuracy a mill will give much better results than a router as well. I would definately not use a v groove bit for any cue making work, because of the previously mentioned fact that it does not actualy cut a 90 degree groove, and it has no cutting power at the very point. The groove can be cleaned by hand, but is not very accurate, and will show at the tips of your points. Here is a link that shows some various double angle cutters- http://www.discount-tools.com/anglemillingindexmain1.htm
If you are using a 1/2" router to cut your points this cutter is what I have used and it will give you an accurate 90. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=45160&cat=1,46168
the one used for 8 sided box.
the one used for 8 sided box.
Thanks guys for all your advise. I have found a few sights where cuemakers show some of their equipment and they have a V-Groove cutter that works horizintally and they make multiple passes taking off the material. I guess there is a female matching cutter available that can cut the inlaid parts. Im not sure how the vibration is but Ill have to experiment. My main concern was with the width of the cutter being able to make a wide enough point. Again thanks for all help and info.
Happpiness Mark
Happpiness Mark
Edge banding bits at the bottom of the page. I have issues with vibration on them (1/4" shank), but know others who do not have such problems.hadjcues said:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...rthtml/pages/bt_ogee.html#edge_banding_anchor
I would like to upgrade my machine to be able to use the 1/2" shank bits, but haven't done it yet.
<<== Dreams of finding a good mill at a decent price.
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ScottR - Vibration is probably from the runout on your router spindle. I am using this cutter, and having great success, as is a couple fellow cuemakers. Just trying to help.
I thought so - So am I (Obviously) and works great. I make sure that the Router is touching the bracket when I place it in the bracket, and make sure that the shank of the cutter is almost buried inside the holder. Also I was told by a customer, the first one they tried, ran out, and the 2nd one was perfect. Might try another cutter.ScottR said:
I have tried 4 cutters. One was unusable due to vibration. The next two were tolerable, but required constantly checking the machine to make sure the vibration had not loosened/mis-aligned anything. I finally got one that works pretty well.billiardbum said:
I guess I am just spoiled with my 3-1/4 hp router running 1/2" bits on my router table. No vibration and smoo-oooth cuts.
I will check that the router is seated tight and put the entire cutter shank inside the collet. Thanks for the tips.