Valley tables problem

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
I've been wondering why some Valley tables have super fast cushions (low nose height). Used to think it was mainly because of improper cloth installation, but putting brand new rails on 2 identical tables, and having to shim the rails up on one and not the other got me thinking it's something else. The cabinets often tend to sag in the middle causing a low spot in the center of the slate which is fairly easy to shim up. But now I'm thinking the rails can also sag toward the center causing the nose of the cushions to lower. Threw a square onto a table I did last weekend, and sure enough, the face of the rail is not plumb. It's worse in some spots than others. Might look into some sort of bracing to address this in the future. Wish I could convince the owner to scrap these things for Diamonds, but that's asking a lot around here.
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Wow, thats pretty bad. It looks like about an 1/8"th gap, that 1/8" at the back will make a larger difference at the nose of the cushion. Nice catch.
 
I've been wondering why some Valley tables have super fast cushions (low nose height). Used to think it was mainly because of improper cloth installation, but putting brand new rails on 2 identical tables, and having to shim the rails up on one and not the other got me thinking it's something else. The cabinets often tend to sag in the middle causing a low spot in the center of the slate which is fairly easy to shim up. But now I'm thinking the rails can also sag toward the center causing the nose of the cushions to lower. Threw a square onto a table I did last weekend, and sure enough, the face of the rail is not plumb. It's worse in some spots than others. Might look into some sort of bracing to address this in the future. Wish I could convince the owner to scrap these things for Diamonds, but that's asking a lot around here.
1CE3JuM.jpg
They're designed that way. The slant back at the bottom of the rail cap is designed to keep the rail blocks from sliding up if they come loose. You need to check the slate depth in the cabinet to make sure both slates are set at the correct depth, so the rails play the same.
 
They're designed that way. The slant back at the bottom of the rail cap is designed to keep the rail blocks from sliding up if they come loose. You need to check the slate depth in the cabinet to make sure both slates are set at the correct depth, so the rails play the same.
I can accept that, yet the angle varies from table to table, and even on the same table.
Slate depth is always checked and considered, but it shouldn't affect the nose height, and level must be taken into consideration. Especially when the center is low which is pretty common.
 
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Those Diamond tables have a lot to live up to. Wonder how they’ll look in 30 years,
D'mond ProAm is built solid as fk. Will last forever. Why wouldn't it? Ever seen the guts up close? Stout build. My local spot has ten 7fts that get used a TON. They are about 12yrs old and are still in perfect condition. Great tables.
 
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I can accept that, yet the angle varies from table to table, and even on the same table.
Slate depth is always checked and considered, but it shouldn't affect the nose height, and level must be taken into consideration. Especially when the center is low which is pretty common.
If you install cloth the table was designed for, those are mute issues.
 
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