Veneer question

macguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am curious what methods some use to assemble and press their veneers. Also what glue is recommended. I have been using just two steel plates and I apply epoxy to the veneers and lay them up but I want to do about a square foot at a time, is that practical? Right now I only do about 3 x 10 inch pieces. Any suggestions?
 
macguy said:
I am curious what methods some use to assemble and press their veneers. Also what glue is recommended. I have been using just two steel plates and I apply epoxy to the veneers and lay them up but I want to do about a square foot at a time, is that practical? Right now I only do about 3 x 10 inch pieces. Any suggestions?

I use two pieces of 1x3 aluminum flat bar about 24" long and 5 clamps. Simple and cheap. Some people use a book press.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26244&item=7512685160&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
 
Speaking of veneers.

Speaking of veneers, what company do you find provides the nicest color selection for veneers. Also I see some cues with thicker veneers and some with the real thin. Where can I get both types. Thanks
 
Murray Tucker said:
I use two pieces of 1x3 aluminum flat bar about 24" long and 5 clamps. Simple and cheap. Some people use a book press.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26244&item=7512685160&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Book Presses are nice. I've had one in my shop that I picked up at a local antique store years ago. I tried to add a second one but the guy I bought it from didn't pack it properly and it arrived in several pieces. If you buy one that has to be shipped make sure it is crated. Mine was just thrown in a cardboard box with no packing at all. Cast iron is brittle!

Mark Bear
 
Murray Tucker said:
I use two pieces of 1x3 aluminum flat bar about 24" long and 5 clamps. Simple and cheap. Some people use a book press.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26244&item=7512685160&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Hi

Thanks. I saw this on ebay and it gives me an idea how to build one myself pretty easy with a couple of plates and a modified bar clamp. It's funny how easy stuff can be once you brain storm it out a little bit. Thats what's great about this forum.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=268&item=6958195188&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
 
Last edited:
macguy said:
Hi

Thanks. I saw this on ebay and it gives me an idea how to build one myself pretty easy with a couple of plates and a modified bar clamp. It's funny how easy stuff can be once you brain storm it out a little bit. Thats what's great about this forum.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=268&item=6958195188&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Make sure your plates are thick enough, so the force is evenly distributed. I'm surprised Murray is not using a monstrous arbor press. ;)

Tracy
 
How about a heavy thick plate welded to a twist jack with a nice solid frame attatched, and indicator mounted to It for that extra touch? :D Just a thought. Greg
 
I use two boards and a bunch of c-clamps. This way I can do a bunch at a time. 8 c-clamps x $3 = $24 plus a buck for the wood makes $25 per press. I also use the spring clamps but be sure you get the really heavy duty ones like Pony, not the cheap ones with weak springs. When band sawing the strips set your fence up to cut the right width then shove a 3/4" thick board about half way through and stop it. Then slide your veneers over the top of that. It really helps cut down on the bottom of the veneers splintering by eliminating the wide gap next to the blade. It keeps the bottom of the veneers supported.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
cueman said:
I use two boards and a bunch of c-clamps. This way I can do a bunch at a time. 8 c-clamps x $3 = $24 plus a buck for the wood makes $25 per press. I also use the spring clamps but be sure you get the really heavy duty ones like Pony, not the cheap ones with weak springs. When band sawing the strips set your fence up to cut the right width then shove a 3/4" thick board about half way through and stop it. Then slide your veneers over the top of that. It really helps cut down on the bottom of the veneers splintering by eliminating the wide gap next to the blade. It keeps the bottom of the veneers supported.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com

Do you use like waxed paper or something to be sure you don't glue your veneers to the boards? Are you using epoxy?
 
macguy said:
Do you use like waxed paper or something to be sure you don't glue your veneers to the boards? Are you using epoxy?

Sandwich the veneers between wax paper. I've made several metal plates to go between veneer sets and I've been able to press enough veneer to do 2-3 or more cues at a time.
 
macguy said:
Do you use like waxed paper or something to be sure you don't glue your veneers to the boards? Are you using epoxy?

I use plastic wrap. Wax on a critical bonding surface scares me. I'm sure with proper cleaning it is not a problem but I just avoid it.

Epoxy is the glue of choice for veneers. Hint: If you buy it at Wal-mart (at least the one near me) then it is not the right epoxy. You need a thin viscosity, long pot life epoxy. I like West but it would be best for you to try several and use what works best for you. Some use white or yellow glue. I've tried it but it just puts too much moisture into the veneers. Even letting them sit in the press for a few days the veneers still wanted to curl after I took them out. When it comes to good veneer work flater if better.
 
Murray Tucker said:
I use plastic wrap. Wax on a critical bonding surface scares me. I'm sure with proper cleaning it is not a problem but I just avoid it.

Epoxy is the glue of choice for veneers. Hint: If you buy it at Wal-mart (at least the one near me) then it is not the right epoxy. You need a thin viscosity, long pot life epoxy. I like West but it would be best for you to try several and use what works best for you. Some use white or yellow glue. I've tried it but it just puts too much moisture into the veneers. Even letting them sit in the press for a few days the veneers still wanted to curl after I took them out. When it comes to good veneer work flater if better.

Murray I pondered the same thing but I also had visions of plastic wrap and glue getting all wadded up on the outside of the veneer which would also be a hassle. So I lightly sand the outside of the veneer to get whatever wax residue, if any, off.

Mark Bear
 
Murray Tucker said:
I use plastic wrap. Wax on a critical bonding surface scares me. I'm sure with proper cleaning it is not a problem but I just avoid it.

Epoxy is the glue of choice for veneers. Hint: If you buy it at Wal-mart (at least the one near me) then it is not the right epoxy. You need a thin viscosity, long pot life epoxy. I like West but it would be best for you to try several and use what works best for you. Some use white or yellow glue. I've tried it but it just puts too much moisture into the veneers. Even letting them sit in the press for a few days the veneers still wanted to curl after I took them out. When it comes to good veneer work flater if better.

I have the West epoxies and I think you are refering to the 207 hardner that can be used as a clear coat?
 
macguy said:
I have the West epoxies and I think you are refering to the 207 hardner that can be used as a clear coat?

206 for veneers and priming "thirsty" woods like maple before I glue in the points with 205.
 
Murray Tucker said:
206 for veneers and priming "thirsty" woods like maple before I glue in the points with 205.
Thanks for sharing, I have them all in the shop.
 
In the cabinet making world vacuum presses are the way to go. There is an initial upfront investment in the bags etc, but with pretty minimal equipment you can generate much more pressure per square inch and more uniform pressure than with a clamp setup.

The Taunton Press Fine Woodworking site has several references to how to do it and any of the mags has advertisements for companies that make the gear.

Tim
 
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