Want a better break/jump tip? Try this.
- Thread starter Shawn Armstrong
- Start date
Yes. Exactly because of hardness. You need the cueball to deflect off the tip and ferrule as quickly as possible so that the cue doesn't trap the cueball.ctyhntr said:
If $10 bucks is all it takes to go against what you believe in then more power to ya.Shawn Armstrong said:
Do you use one or don't you? You said just because you don't use one doesn't mean other people can't and then you said you play the 2nd ball in the rack and this allow you the necessary draw to avoid the scratch, while still breaking hard. You got me all confused.
BVal
When I made them, that was my test for how well they performed. My personal break cue is a Joss wrapless cue with a Chandivert Rocky tip. 100% leather. What I put on a cue has nothing to do with my belief system. I don't use phenolic tips, but I will install them, if that's what the customer wants. I don't use Kamui tips, but I install them.BVal said:
If you brought me a NERF tip for your break cue, and really wanted it on the cue, I'd ask "what shape do you want it". The customer has the right to ask for whatever they want. If I can do it, I'll do it. This isn't a morality issue - there's no sin involved in going against my beliefs in regards to pocket billiards. There IS a problem when something goes against my religious or personal values. Phenolic tip, fibre tip, leather tip - it's all small potatoes.
what do you think phenolic is?
It is basically a fiber/cloth layered and soaked with phenolic resin. Phenolic resin is a lot like epoxy resin - they are both very hard, strong adhesives.
You are basically making a material just like phenolic, but with epoxy resin instead. Also, it sounds like the epoxy doesn't completely soak into the fiber pads, so of course it isn't the same as phenolic.
I'm not knocking the idea - it sounds like a really good one! I'm just pointing out that what you're doing could easily put in the same catagory as a phenolic material.
It is basically a fiber/cloth layered and soaked with phenolic resin. Phenolic resin is a lot like epoxy resin - they are both very hard, strong adhesives.
You are basically making a material just like phenolic, but with epoxy resin instead. Also, it sounds like the epoxy doesn't completely soak into the fiber pads, so of course it isn't the same as phenolic.
I'm not knocking the idea - it sounds like a really good one! I'm just pointing out that what you're doing could easily put in the same catagory as a phenolic material.
Superpro tips...
I don't like phenolic for a tip either. All of the people I do break cue work for, I recommend the Superpro laminated tips. They are layered water buffalo tips. These tips hit just as hard as phenolic, while holding chalk very well and giving great control of 'ol whitey on the break. All who I've installed them for on their break cues really love them.
I don't like phenolic for a tip either. All of the people I do break cue work for, I recommend the Superpro laminated tips. They are layered water buffalo tips. These tips hit just as hard as phenolic, while holding chalk very well and giving great control of 'ol whitey on the break. All who I've installed them for on their break cues really love them.
Phenolic is usually rolled. Micarta is flat layered. I'm basically making a laminated fibre resin tip. Phenolics are made a little differently - they aren't as flexible as this material.jondrums said:
Shawn Armstrong said:
I use a Stinger jumb/break, which has a phenolic tip (I think). I use a Tip Pik to texture it occasionally to hold chalk well and don't have any problem controlling the cue ball on any kind of break shot, even a 2nd ball 8-Ball break.
However, I don't hit very far from center on any break, and can easily bring the CB straight to the side rail on a 2nd ball break with just a little low and a full hit - never a risk of scratching unless I accidentally clip the head ball.
pj
chgo
I always found with the phenolic tips, I had to ease off on the 2nd ball break because I was worried about scratching in the corner or knocking the cueball off the table. With the softer fibre tip, I was able to dig in and hit them hard without the bouncy effect on the cueball. Plus, it gets rid of that annoying ping sound that comes from the phenolic.Patrick Johnson said:
I wouldn't suggest anyone cut the tip off their Stinger or X-breaker or Sledgehammer to do this. It works really well on capped or through ferrule cues that have a one piece tip glued to the top. The Stinger and X-breaker have a stemmed tip that extends into the ferrule and tenon.
I lost the tip on my break cue and have yet to replace it so this really has my interest.
BUT,I'm having a hard time imagining what exactly we are talking about.
Is a pic,or pics of the process possible?
I meant to add,I'll try it if I can figure it out.
BUT,I'm having a hard time imagining what exactly we are talking about.
Is a pic,or pics of the process possible?
I meant to add,I'll try it if I can figure it out.
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Fibre pads - glue together into a little "hockey puck" (sorry - I'm Canadian). You will end up with a laminated fibre tip. Install the same way you would a Moori.
I think you misunderstand my ignance...I'm missing the steps between buy fiber pads,buy glue and break like a champ lol.
I have know idea how to get the puchasing phase to the end phase as it were.
I have no idea how to go about the task.
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Buy fibre pads from Atlas Billiard Supplies or Prather Cue. Fibre pads come in packs of 50. Go buy some super thin epoxy - general purpose 5 minute epoxy is too thick. Once you have the epoxy and the pads, mix up a bunch of the glue, and stick the pads in it. Once they are covered, using your fingers and some gloves, place the pads one on top of the other. Once they are stacked up, about 8 pads high, put the "tip" in a vise. Use wax paper on the vise jaws to avoid a mess. Press the tip until you see the epoxy squeeze out the sides. Let the tip dry fully. Then, remove from vise. Peel off wax paper from both sides. Sand the bottom of the tip. Glue to prepared cue ferrule. Shave sides like you would a standard leather tip. Shape top of tip to desired radius. Start playing with new tip.
If you're stuck on any of the steps, PM me.
If you're stuck on any of the steps, PM me.
They seem to be nearly identical. I'm not sure if Joe is using a thin grey fibre sheet when he makes these, but they are similar in nature.Flex said: