want to build a sneaky pete

poolshooter74

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i would like to try making a sneaky pete. would be my first cue so it would need to be fairly inexpensive. was thinking of just converting a house cue, either a valley or dufferin. would like to use a 3/8-10 or a radial pin. dont have much equipment, just a midsize lathe that i have been using for shaft repairs (tips,ferrules, and cleaning.) if anybody has any of these or any alternatives please let me know? any help is appreciated.

louis
 
i would like to try making a sneaky pete. would be my first cue so it would need to be fairly inexpensive. was thinking of just converting a house cue, either a valley or dufferin. would like to use a 3/8-10 or a radial pin. dont have much equipment, just a midsize lathe that i have been using for shaft repairs (tips,ferrules, and cleaning.) if anybody has any of these or any alternatives please let me know? any help is appreciated.

louis

I've bought a bunch of Valleys for little of nothing from poolrooms, student centers at local colleges, bars.etc. Most of the time, they were taken somewhere in the back because the tips or ferrule's had come off and they didn't know anyone that repaired them and they just bought new replacements. Most were in good shape and others will make terrific Tomatoe stakes. :D
 
Ask around at the bars if they have any broken bar cues that you can have or give them a few bucks for. Meanwhile, go to Schmelke's website, for $28 you can buy some cheap blanks. They probably won't be real pretty, but you may get a decent one if you order a few of them. They also sell joint pins, rings, finish size shafts, bumpers, wraps, ect. Buy yourself enough of these items to do a few cues.

Now, let the blanks you bought hang for awhile while you mess around with the old bar cues, learning how to install rings, pins, ect. Then start taking passes on the blanks. These are way oversized and will take awhile to turn down to size. Some are going to have big gaps, points way off, not straight or nice looking grain, or they can possibly move and be junk. That's why I said to buy a few of them. Once close to your final size, add your rings or whatever else you want to do. For finish, you can go with Tung oil, which is the easiest you can do to start with.

This will let you mess around with building something real cheap. It will also give you an idea if you like it enough to persue it farther.

If you have any questions let me know.
 
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Welcome to the addiction. This is going to cost you thousands of dollars before it's over.

Larry
 
hey guys thanks alot! got some options now. like the tung oil idea, was thinking if i bought the sneaky kit how i would finish it...low-tech. i will have to take a look at the schmelkes now.
 
A good low tech cheap finish would be superglue.

you pretty much have tpo have a lathe for that and its not the easiest finish out there either IMO

easiest finish ever is a brush on water based finish dries fast and sands easy its just hard to get as shinny as one would like. IMO

i use a epoxy clearcote finish i like the epoxy becasue it darkens the appearence of the cue ie, maple, ebon etc.
the clear really comes out shiny and nbuffs very well.

but neither are easy.

unfortunatly the finish is the hardest part of cue building id stick with the oil since you really cant mess it up. as long as you have patience and take your time.
 
Super glue finishes are not easy until you get you the process down. You can't really mess up a oil finish. You wipe it on, let it dry, wipe with some super fine steel wool, then repeat. Once you have a nice coating on it, then you buff with a soft white cloth. For a cheap little sneaky, it's a great finish. Yes it's got to be renewed, but for starting out it'll get this guy a finish that is usable. Another option is the Tru oil gun stock finish. Tru oil also has a grain filler that works well. Again, it's another easy option that will get a finish on the cue for him. They are both cheap and will let him test the waters of buildind a cue.
 
i think either oil finish would be best for me. how many coatsof oil do you apply? i think i would need to see someone do the superglue finish before i would attempt it.
i checked out the schmelke website lastnight, they have alot of neat stuff there. very reasonable prices too. i think they would be the way to go.

thanks again,
louis
 
Tung oil, go 3 or 4 coats, sanding with super fine steel wool with the grain between coats. Tru oil, use their filler before you start with the oil, then put on enough coats to level out the finish, sanding with steel wool between coats also. The tru oil has directions on the bottle. Tung oil you can find lots of info on the web.

Good luck.
 
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