What do you use to get a shaft real slick?

sammy1712

sammy1712

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The best I ever used was the Slipstic conditioner, but price in Germany is far of of everything. There are only 2 dealer with some stock and they are asking $24.- for 0.35oz :mad:

I used also cuesilk and a lot products more, but nothing come close to Slipstic!

As Slipstic is almost not longer available at areasonable price, does anybody have an idea what other product can compete?


Many thanks in advance,

Gerhard
 
Go over it lightly with 2000 grit sandpaper then use a piece of leather to burnish it smooth as a babys butt. Hope this helps. Thats what I use when I feel my shaft is getting a little gritty.
Jeff
 
pooldawg8 said:
Go over it lightly with 2000 grit sandpaper then use a piece of leather to burnish it smooth as a babys butt. Hope this helps. Thats what I use when I feel my shaft is getting a little gritty.
Jeff
Click to expand...

Bingo!

Clean first with denatured alcohol.. wipe dry. Maybe you'll have to go over it with 800 and then 1500 ... if it's really rough, then the 2000, then leather.

I go over mine at least 100 strokes with the leather.

When I'm done my arm is sore as hell, the shaft is hot as hell, but that devil is slick! :groucho:
 
800 grit would take wood off. If it's dirty use a damp Magic Eraser first, let dry, burnish with leather. At this point I use cuesilk while spinning in the lathe. I can get it so smooth and slippery you can't beat it any other way.
 
Q Smooth Paper until the Shaft is SLICK, and I put a generous amount of Cue Wax, after 20 minute I buff with a CLEAN SOFT CLOTH! Slick as slick can be.

BTW the Q Smooth Paper are washable in warm water, and can be used for years, and are sold under many brad names.
 
Thanks for all advises :thumbup:

You have t o know, I´m a kind of crazy about my material. For example I clean my shafts after every day of playing and I play a lot :D

So far, I use cue doctor or when it´s real got blueing a special magic eraser, after it I use 4000 and 6000 micro mesh. Till now I used as final coating Slipstic.

The problem is as I already mentioned far of in price. I tried a lot from cuesilk, cue doctor wax, nanotec polish, canuba wax and a few more, but nothing came close to Slipstic :mad:

Br,
Gerhard
 
I too use micro mesh fabric. Below is a link to a chart showing the approximat equivilancy chart for micro mesh to sandpaper but be aware that sandpaper leaves more scratches than micro mesh as sand paper is not as consistent in it's abrasive pattern. The Micro Mesh is computer controlled.

http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/abrasives/micromesh.htm#chart

Sandpaper is in the column ANSI or CAMI USA.

So, using 4000 micro mesh is about the same (but better) than using 1500 grit sandpaper.
... according to my layman calculations :)

I also use 4k at the end of my sessions.. to clean it up and then leather for burnishing. 6k MM is probably just as good as leather but I like the feel and naturalness of leather.

I've tried every single product on the market for making the shaft slicker, including Slip Stic and I mean every one out there.

There's nothing better than using nothing. Just clean it and burnish it. Don't put any kind of coating on it. After a while they all get sticky or gummy or attract dirt and have to be cleaned off and re-applied.

Just cleaning and a really good burnishing will make the shaft as slick or slicker than any product.
 
Last edited:
Craig Fales said:
800 grit would take wood off. If it's dirty use a damp Magic Eraser first, let dry, burnish with leather. At this point I use cuesilk while spinning in the lathe. I can get it so smooth and slippery you can't beat it any other way.
Click to expand...

The sad truth is that sometimes a guy might HAVE to remove a little wood in order to get things straight. :eek::frown:

.... whaddayagunnado? :shrug:

I think we're on the same page though.
 
JimS said:
I too use micro mesh fabric. Below is a link to a chart showing the approximat equivilancy chart for micro mesh to sandpaper but be aware that sandpaper leaves more scratches than micro mesh as sand paper is not as consistent in it's abrasive pattern. The Micro Mesh is computer controlled.

http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/abrasives/micromesh.htm#chart

Sandpaper is in the column ANSI or CAMI USA.

So, using 4000 micro mesh is about the same (but better) than using 1500 grit sandpaper.
... according to my layman calculations :)

I also use 4k at the end of my sessions.. to clean it up and then leather for burnishing. 6k MM is probably just as good as leather but I like the feel and naturalness of leather.

I've tried every single product on the market for making the shaft slicker, including Slip Stic and I mean every one out there.

There's nothing better than using nothing. Just clean it and burnish it. Don't put any kind of coating on it. After a while they all get sticky or gummy or attract dirt and have to be cleaned off and re-applied.

Just cleaning and a really good burnishing will make the shaft as slick or slicker than any product.
Click to expand...

Hi Jim,

meanwhile I found the perfect way and the perfect result for me :D
I clean with alcohol, after it I use canuba wax (once a week), to finish I use 6000-8000 micro mesh. At least I go over with leather.
I never got any better result, even not with Slipstic :thumbup:
Since I do it, I even have much less chalk sit on my shaft after a session :smile:

The best thing beside it, it´s real cheap :p

Br,
Gerhard
 
sammy1712 said:
Hi Jim,

meanwhile I found the perfect way and the perfect result for me :D
I clean with alcohol, after it I use canuba wax (once a week), to finish I use 6000-8000 micro mesh. At least I go over with leather.
I never got any better result, even not with Slipstic :thumbup:
Since I do it, I even have much less chalk sit on my shaft after a session :smile:

The best thing beside it, it´s real cheap :p

Br,
Gerhard
Click to expand...

I don't mean to be critical... do what trips your trigger... but the wax does not help. The wax will make the shaft sticky and will hold dirt. Just the alcohol and burnishing is the best method. I found that I just had it in my head that some sort of coating was necessary so I used everything from lighter fluid to Bowling Alley wax and everything in-between. They all got sticky and had to be removed and then I'd re-apply them. It was all just my idea that the shaft needed something... and I just liked playing around with it.

A couple swipes with 4000 and then a minimum of 50 swipes with the leather does the job. If I'm careful with how I use the chalk... holding the cue parallell to the floor, or horizontally, while chalking, then cleaning with alcohol isn't even necessary... if I'm playing with clean hands.
 
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