what does taper roll mean?

[jayman]

I'm Gonna Get Flamed For This..... Taper Roll, Is When The Shaft Is Straight, But Has Been Finish Tapered By Hand, Or Hand Tapered Through The Years Of Cleaning/sanding. The Shaft Will Spin True In A Lathe, But Because Of Different Pressures At Different Points On The Shaft During Hand Sanding, There Are High/low Spots That Can Be Seen When The Shaft Is Rolled On The Table. But When The Shaft Is Rolled Elevated On The Rail, The Tip Doesn't Move, And When Spun In A Lathe It Is Straight.

Just Because The Light Under A Shaft Varies A Little, Doesn't Mean The Shaft Isn't Straight.

For Example..... A Cuemaker Finishes A "perfect" Shaft, A Player Choose To "clean" The Shaft With Fine Sandpaper, But Applies More Pressure To One Side Of The Shaft, Than He Does To The Other. Causing A Low Spot. If You Were To Roll It On A Table, The Light Under It Would Vary, But If Spun In A Lathe The Tip Still Wouldn't Wobble, Hence The Shaft Is Straight, But Shows A Taper Variance. This Taper Variance Is What I Call Taper Roll. I Would Say Taper Variance But Most People Would Just Look At Me All Confused.

To Me That Is The Proper Way To Use The Term "taper Roll", Although I Have Seen It Used By Unscrupulous Characters To Describe A Warped Cue.
quote )

Very well said, Originally the term taper roll was used to describe certain makers cues with compound tapers, The term just grew from there.

I have seen this before, it is generally very very subtle at most.. I call it "Out of round"

 

[Hunter]

Well, I might be the exception to the rule when it comes to describing cues. I have always described what I see when I roll the cue, and I can't tell you how many buyers I've either ran off or had them offer you next to nothing because "the shaft is warped". I had a Woodworth cue on Ebay this week that had twenty lowballers try to get a major discount because I described the butt as having a rollout half the size of the thickness of a credit card. The cue has a leather wrap and I would bet that is where the roll comes from (sorry Jay, I'm a firm believer that this can very well have an effect).

As anyone who knows anything about cues will tell you, wood is organic and will be affected to some degree by the climate it's in. The only cue that I ever played with that the warp actually affected my play, looked like a damned horseshoe!

A lot of people miss some really good deals on cues because they think that an .005" roll sounds like the cue is a basket case. I've made critical aircraft parts that don't require a lot of the tolerances that some nit cue buyers think they should get in a cue.

I've got over 300 deals on Ebay and quite a few deals here with 100% feedback. The closest I ever came to a black mark was from a guy that bought an old Brunswick by Schmelke cue from me. I didn't hear anything from him, so I emailed him and asked if everything was OK. He went off on this tirade about "when I pay almost $100 for a precision shooting instrument, I expect perfection". He had a whole hair of light showing under one shaft. He might have died if he saw some of the light I've seen under some very expensive cues! Can you imagine what he would have thought if he'd seen a South West with the compound taper at the joint where nothing touches the table?

I do understand that sales sharks use the terms to be tricky, and have bought a few of those "straight as an arrow" cues that literally bounced off the table when rolled. Long story short, a little warpage , rollout, taper, etc. is pretty much the norm when you're dealing with wood.

Steve

 

[8-ball Rat]

Well, I might be the exception to the rule when it comes to describing cues. I have always described what I see when I roll the cue, and I can't tell you how many buyers I've either ran off or had them offer you next to nothing because "the shaft is warped". I had a Woodworth cue on Ebay this week that had twenty lowballers try to get a major discount because I described the butt as having a rollout half the size of the thickness of a credit card. The cue has a leather wrap and I would bet that is where the roll comes from (sorry Jay, I'm a firm believer that this can very well have an effect).

As anyone who knows anything about cues will tell you, wood is organic and will be affected to some degree by the climate it's in. The only cue that I ever played with that the warp actually affected my play, looked like a damned horseshoe!

A lot of people miss some really good deals on cues because they think that an .005" roll sounds like the cue is a basket case. I've made critical aircraft parts that don't require a lot of the tolerances that some nit cue buyers think they should get in a cue.

I've got over 300 deals on Ebay and quite a few deals here with 100% feedback. The closest I ever came to a black mark was from a guy that bought an old Brunswick by Schmelke cue from me. I didn't hear anything from him, so I emailed him and asked if everything was OK. He went off on this tirade about "when I pay almost $100 for a precision shooting instrument, I expect perfection". He had a whole hair of light showing under one shaft. He might have died if he saw some of the light I've seen under some very expensive cues! Can you imagine what he would have thought if he'd seen a South West with the compound taper at the joint where nothing touches the table?

I do understand that sales sharks use the terms to be tricky, and have bought a few of those "straight as an arrow" cues that literally bounced off the table when rolled. Long story short, a little warpage , rollout, taper, etc. is pretty much the norm when you're dealing with wood.

Steve

Yep....what he said!

As always, Steve...you and I are on the very same sheet of music. Imagine that!!