what is a cheap lathe setup that works?

scottycoyote said:
did i mention i dont know a think about wood working?

One other important thing about lathes/class on how to operate them,,,,, please pay close attention to safety, any moving machinery will 'bite' you, lathes are powerful, even the small ones,,,,wouldn't want a future cuemaker cut short !!
 
Jack Flanagan said:
text says it has a #1MT live center, too small; haven't seen a concave live center available for that small a MT (Morse Taper),,,have made several concave centers for myself since getting a metal lathe,,,



I have a craftsman in the garage by the pool table, that I have been using as a cleaner for years, and It's Mt1. I simply put a MT1 jacobs chuck in the tailstock, so it will except most straight shank concaves.
 
Michael Webb said:
Now that's perfect. Just add another peice of wood on shoulder bolts to the front rest so it slides back and forth and theres your tool post. A box of razor blades and your good to go.




That would work.

Here's a centering slide I made from a small airslide I bought for 5 bucks. I gutted the actuator part, and the lead nut I made from delrin. Works fine for what I use It for, but the nut could probably be made from brass just as easy, to make a cross slide from. Only thing is, I made It with the help of one of My metal lathes.

I like to work ferrules off of the headstock though, and even then some shafts still take some effort to properly center. Not easy to work one from a steady rest, unless the shaft is running really true.

I use the razors also, could'nt do without them. Sure makes tips easier when you know how to put them to good use. Could be dangerous to someone that has limited experience, but they can save alot of time. I use 2 different kind of blades Myself.

Greg
 

Attachments

  • centeringslide1.JPG
    centeringslide1.JPG
    24.1 KB · Views: 426
I'll stick with Mike

I'd love to do my own tips just for the experience, but you know I've tried and no way I can match the job Mike Webb does. Afterall you don't replace tips that often and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg at that. So I'll still screw around with my Dufferins and McDermott myself for the fun of it, but I'll stick with Mike for any shaft I care about.
Mike you should be able to tell which shafts I've experimented with when you replace the tip I put on. :D
 
catscradle said:
I'd love to do my own tips just for the experience, but you know I've tried and no way I can match the job Mike Webb does. Afterall you don't replace tips that often and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg at that. So I'll still screw around with my Dufferins and McDermott myself for the fun of it, but I'll stick with Mike for any shaft I care about.
Mike you should be able to tell which shafts I've experimented with when you replace the tip I put on. :D




By all means If your lucky enough to have a guy that knows his stuff, Like Mr Webb to do your work, then take anything you care about to him. It's well worth the modest price to have someone with the correct equipment and experience with tip and ferrule work do It. If you don't know anyone locally, just ask around where others have their work done. Word of mouth gets around quickly. As with most I'm sure, I can't count the number of people we've picked up, because someone was doing them basically by hand still, and a regular customer told them to bring their cue our way. They usually bring all their work to us afterwards. We don't advertise, so that's where most of our customers come from. We get alot moving down here from up north, that ask around looking for a good repair guy also.

started out doing tip repair by hand, It's probably been ten-15 years since I have hand tipped, but I have been there, even still have the hand crank ferrule machine, and the whole nine yards :D , though don't use anymore. I'd give it up if I had to go Back to that, but may be fine for someone doing their own tips, that's not worried about It. Greg
 
catscradle said:
I'd love to do my own tips just for the experience, but you know I've tried and no way I can match the job Mike Webb does. Afterall you don't replace tips that often and it doesn't cost an arm and a leg at that. So I'll still screw around with my Dufferins and McDermott myself for the fun of it, but I'll stick with Mike for any shaft I care about.
Mike you should be able to tell which shafts I've experimented with when you replace the tip I put on. :D

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :eek:
 
well unfortunately i dont have anyone close by to do this kind of work for me.....which is why im interested. I bought chris hightowers video on cue repair......thought i would pick me up a little lathe and just do the small stuff myself.
 
Jack Flanagan said:
actually, scotty, you probably won't find a 99 cent wood lathe, just a fluke on eBay one night,,,HF ( harbor freight.com ) has a serviceable lathe that regularly is on sale for $79.99 (free freight),,the plate that people turn bowls on had a variety of holes, one matched the factory holes in the chuck,,,got the machine shop next door to center and drill the other holes,,, cuesmith.com has lathe pins and a concave live center (w/#2MT) that fit the HF setup,,,read up on steady rests/lathes, etc. and most of my ramblings might make more sense,,,the steady rest that I modified came from HF also (it had metal wheels that would mar wood easily),,,I just redrilled it to use skateboard wheels (new ones, please) and I've made enough in repairs in 2 years to buy a 9" x 20" metal lathe and a 13" x 36" metal lathe,,,,practice, practice, practice and things work easier,,,find some old broken down shafts and experiment before you try on something good,,,,maybe I had an advantage, because I've always been around machinery; sure didn't hurt,,,,,,,,jflan

I would love to see pictures of this setup if possible.
Thanks
 
scottycoyote said:
thats a good idea jack ill look into that

ok i went to the link.....im starting to see what i need.

so i need the end thingy to make sure the cue doesnt fly loose?

how about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42282&item=4366648791&rd=1
Don't by that lathe. I have a friend that bought that exact lathe off ebay. He called me and asked me if I could help him get it set up to do some simple cue work, and I said sure. He brought it over and it was awful. I spend a whole day making parts for it. I doubt you could have gotten any accessories for it anywhere. To change speeds you had to take the metal case off and move the belt, It was not easy. The tail stock, forget about. I won't go any farther it is just junk spend your money on a better lathe you will be able to mount a three jaw chuck on and other parts. You don't want something that is so odd ball you can never find a part for it.
 
macguy said:
Don't by that lathe. I have a friend that bought that exact lathe off ebay. He called me and asked me if I could help him get it set up to do some simple cue work, and I said sure. He brought it over and it was awful. I spend a whole day making parts for it. I doubt you could have gotten any accessories for it anywhere. To change speeds you had to take the metal case off and move the belt, It was not easy. The tail stock, forget about. I won't go any farther it is just junk spend your money on a better lathe you will be able to mount a three jaw chuck on and other parts. You don't want something that is so odd ball you can never find a part for it.

like I told scotty, get some training,,,,as for junk, don't know what your friend bought, so don't compare,,,lots of 'better' wood lathes use belts, even some smaller metal lathes use belts to change speeds,,,as for oddball. anything, IMHO, smaller than #2MT is really oddball (not much out there for #1MT),,,don't know what parts you're calling oddball and hard to find,,,everything I've ever needed was readily available (locally & this is a small town),,,,,,,,,,JMHO...........jflan
 
Kevin Lindstrom said:
I would love to see pictures of this setup if possible.
Thanks

if I can get photos from camera to computer, I'll post them,,still learning how it all works,,,,,,,,,jflan
 
pictures

Jack Flanagan said:
if I can get photos from camera to computer, I'll post them,,still learning how it all works,,,,,,,,,jflan

If you have trouble posting them here please feel free to email them to me.
See P.M. I have sent to you.
Thanks again
Kevin
 
Jack Flanagan said:
like I told scotty, get some training,,,,as for junk, don't know what your friend bought, so don't compare,,,lots of 'better' wood lathes use belts, even some smaller metal lathes use belts to change speeds,,,as for oddball. anything, IMHO, smaller than #2MT is really oddball (not much out there for #1MT),,,don't know what parts you're calling oddball and hard to find,,,everything I've ever needed was readily available (locally & this is a small town),,,,,,,,,,JMHO...........jflan
This one you had to remove the metal case and use an allen wrench loosen pulley slide it off most of the way reposition the belt slide it back on and then tighten the belt. It took 15 minutes to change the speed. You could never have found something like a steady rest for this thing and the thread was odd on the spindle. It was a bad lathe and the motor was such a piece of crap would not have lasted any time at all and would have been very hard to replace the way they had it in there. Even the switch had to be fixed so it would work. The spindle was ball bearing but they were set in a plastic housing that you could grab on to and move back and forth. I would say it could have even been dangerous if you were trying to turn a sizable piece of wood and cutting it down with turning tools.
 
Last edited:
as per scotty's eBay link,,,a piece of crap,,,not comparable to others available elsewhere and on eBay,,,have to do research and don't compare apples and oranges,,
my HF 'elcheapo' wood lathe takes 2 minutes 'tops' to change speeds,,,but why change speeds if you are going to do the same operation over and over ? ,,, the tailstock on mine is cast and has a #2MT removeable live center (creates lots of options),,people who don't shop and compare probably bought Pintos, Vegas, and Yugos,,,,,,,,,,,,,LOL
 
Good Deal, That video will be of great use to you, and give you a good idea of what you need, and how do do repairs. I got It after I had been doing the stuff for a while, and still learned alot more from It. The book has alot that's not in the video, so might want to pick up when you can also. Good Luck with, hope it works out for you. Greg
 
Jack Flanagan said:
like I told scotty, get some training,,,,as for junk, don't know what your friend bought, so don't compare,,,lots of 'better' wood lathes use belts, even some smaller metal lathes use belts to change speeds,,,as for oddball. anything, IMHO, smaller than #2MT is really oddball (not much out there for #1MT),,,don't know what parts you're calling oddball and hard to find,,,everything I've ever needed was readily available (locally & this is a small town),,,,,,,,,,JMHO...........jflan

Not that I'm going to go buy a lathe, but if I'm going to read this thread I need certain knowledge. What does #2MT and #1MT refer to? :confused:
 
Back
Top