what is the best way to wax the shaft?

A

ArturPR

New member
Hello,

I just got my new Viking cue with Vikore Shaft.

Here in Brazil (where I live) is very difficult to find care and maintenance products, and most of the cues here are varnished, including the shaft.

Normally I remove the varnish and apply wax carnauba wax ... this leaves the cue sticky, then I apply over a layer of automotive wax (also carnauba) which leaves the shaft shinning and very smooth.

So I was wondering if I can give this treatment to Vikore shaft or if another method would be better.

Thank you all.

Artur
 
Here's what I did with my playing cue:

I removed the original finish back to within 6" of the joint and sanded to 600 grit. Then I sealed the shaft with a few coats of padding lacquer and sanded that smooth to 1500 grit. Then I burnished the shaft with one side of a brown paper bag. It gets smooth as silk that way. On the other side of the brown paper I rubbed on a thick coating of hard carnuba stick wax and burnished again with that side of the paper. It feels like glass when I am done, and stays clean for a very long time.

When it starts to get blue from chalk, I use a Magic Eraser to clean it up, then go back to the brown paper again, plain side first, then the waxed side. I burnish with the paper almost every day I play, and my shaft looks better than new after a year of daily play.

Hard carnuba wax may not be easy to obtain where you are, but it is worlds different from paste carnuba wax. I rub the shaft very hard so it gets warm and helps the wax go onto the stick. You may be able to find it from a woodturning supply house. I discovered the stuff when I used to work for Woodcraft Supply. It's the nuts IMO.
 
Sloppy Pockets said:
Here's what I did with my playing cue:
I removed the original finish back to within 6" of the joint and sanded to 600 grit. Then I sealed the shaft with a few coats of padding lacquer and sanded that smooth to 1500 grit. Then I burnished the shaft with one side of a brown paper bag. It gets smooth as silk that way. On the other side of the brown paper I rubbed on a thick coating of hard carnuba stick wax and burnished again with that side of the paper. It feels like glass when I am done, and stays clean for a very long time.
When it starts to get blue from chalk, I use a Magic Eraser to clean it up, then go back to the brown paper again, plain side first, then the waxed side. I burnish with the paper almost every day I play, and my shaft looks better than new after a year of daily play.
Hard carnuba wax may not be easy to obtain where you are, but it is worlds different from paste carnuba wax. I rub the shaft very hard so it gets warm and helps the wax go onto the stick. You may be able to find it from a woodturning supply house. I discovered the stuff when I used to work for Woodcraft Supply. It's the nuts IMO.
Click to expand...

I'll go along with this. :smile:
 
Sloppy Pockets said:
Here's what I did with my playing cue:

I removed the original finish back to within 6" of the joint and sanded to 600 grit. Then I sealed the shaft with a few coats of padding lacquer and sanded that smooth to 1500 grit. Then I burnished the shaft with one side of a brown paper bag. It gets smooth as silk that way. On the other side of the brown paper I rubbed on a thick coating of hard carnuba stick wax and burnished again with that side of the paper. It feels like glass when I am done, and stays clean for a very long time.

When it starts to get blue from chalk, I use a Magic Eraser to clean it up, then go back to the brown paper again, plain side first, then the waxed side. I burnish with the paper almost every day I play, and my shaft looks better than new after a year of daily play.

Hard carnuba wax may not be easy to obtain where you are, but it is worlds different from paste carnuba wax. I rub the shaft very hard so it gets warm and helps the wax go onto the stick. You may be able to find it from a woodturning supply house. I discovered the stuff when I used to work for Woodcraft Supply. It's the nuts IMO.
Click to expand...

That's what I used to do, but some people in other forums told me to avoid the sealer, and use only carnauba wax.

I used to sand with 1,500 grit sandpaper, then applied 2 to 3 layers of diluted sealing, sanded again and applied another layer of sealer.

Then apply a layer of carnauba wax and rub well to penetrate, then a layer of carnauba automotive wax with silicone ... the result was great ...
 
Sloppy Pockets said:
Here's what I did with my playing cue:

I removed the original finish back to within 6" of the joint and sanded to 600 grit. Then I sealed the shaft with a few coats of padding lacquer and sanded that smooth to 1500 grit. Then I burnished the shaft with one side of a brown paper bag. It gets smooth as silk that way. On the other side of the brown paper I rubbed on a thick coating of hard carnuba stick wax and burnished again with that side of the paper. It feels like glass when I am done, and stays clean for a very long time.

When it starts to get blue from chalk, I use a Magic Eraser to clean it up, then go back to the brown paper again, plain side first, then the waxed side. I burnish with the paper almost every day I play, and my shaft looks better than new after a year of daily play.

Hard carnuba wax may not be easy to obtain where you are, but it is worlds different from paste carnuba wax. I rub the shaft very hard so it gets warm and helps the wax go onto the stick. You may be able to find it from a woodturning supply house. I discovered the stuff when I used to work for Woodcraft Supply. It's the nuts IMO.
Click to expand...

That's what I used to do, but some people in other forums told me to avoid the sealer and use only carnauba wax.

I used to sand with 1,500 grit sandpaper, then applied 2 to 3 layers of diluted sealing, sanded again and applied another layer of sealer.

Then apply a layer of carnauba wax and rub well to penetrate, then a layer of carnauba automotive wax with silicone ... the result was great ...
 
Sloppy Pockets said:
Here's what I did with my playing cue:

I removed the original finish back to within 6" of the joint and sanded to 600 grit. Then I sealed the shaft with a few coats of padding lacquer and sanded that smooth to 1500 grit. Then I burnished the shaft with one side of a brown paper bag. It gets smooth as silk that way. On the other side of the brown paper I rubbed on a thick coating of hard carnuba stick wax and burnished again with that side of the paper. It feels like glass when I am done, and stays clean for a very long time.

When it starts to get blue from chalk, I use a Magic Eraser to clean it up, then go back to the brown paper again, plain side first, then the waxed side. I burnish with the paper almost every day I play, and my shaft looks better than new after a year of daily play.

Hard carnuba wax may not be easy to obtain where you are, but it is worlds different from paste carnuba wax. I rub the shaft very hard so it gets warm and helps the wax go onto the stick. You may be able to find it from a woodturning supply house. I discovered the stuff when I used to work for Woodcraft Supply. It's the nuts IMO.
Click to expand...

I gotta try this.
 
Sloppy Pockets said:
Here's what I did with my playing cue:

I removed the original finish back to within 6" of the joint and sanded to 600 grit. Then I sealed the shaft with a few coats of padding lacquer and sanded that smooth to 1500 grit. Then I burnished the shaft with one side of a brown paper bag. It gets smooth as silk that way. On the other side of the brown paper I rubbed on a thick coating of hard carnuba stick wax and burnished again with that side of the paper. It feels like glass when I am done, and stays clean for a very long time.

When it starts to get blue from chalk, I use a Magic Eraser to clean it up, then go back to the brown paper again, plain side first, then the waxed side. I burnish with the paper almost every day I play, and my shaft looks better than new after a year of daily play.

Hard carnuba wax may not be easy to obtain where you are, but it is worlds different from paste carnuba wax. I rub the shaft very hard so it gets warm and helps the wax go onto the stick. You may be able to find it from a woodturning supply house. I discovered the stuff when I used to work for Woodcraft Supply. It's the nuts IMO.
Click to expand...

Years ago I used to do something similar to this, but instead of hard carnuba, I used Johnson's Floor Wax (liquid)...worked very well, but I haven't tried it in many years...I'm gonna go look for hard carnuba...:smile:
 
I think Ted Harris used to apply floor wax to cues in his booth at the SBE.
 
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