What kind of ferrule material is used on Predator Z2 shafts?
- Thread starter tlayne
- Start date
http://predatorcues.com/predator_cues_shaft_evolution.php#generationdif
not that their website has any valuable information anyway, as it may not be standard
gee, thanks. I also like how the 314-2's bar at the top is longer than the original Z's bar.
not that their website has any valuable information anyway, as it may not be standard
gee, thanks. I also like how the 314-2's bar at the top is longer than the original Z's bar.
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They are capped and have a fairly fat cap if you ask me.
I have some shots of a Z2 I repaired at my web : http://www.kendocues.com/Websted/z2.html
Kent
the predator ferrule is a hollow and very thin piece of material that slightly surrounds even thinner wood with an expandable foam core. the have been known to break off with regularity. i have replaced the ferrule by drilling out the foam and inserting a tenon and adding a real ferrrule. thats just my experience with the repairs im sure others are different. thank you for asking
I don't know what shaft you did the work on but it doesn't sound like any Predator that I've ever seen.
It could be that I'm just getting lost in your chosen adjectives.
First, all Predator ferrules are capped.
The cap is btwn .200 & .250" thick depending on model.
("even thinner wood")?
While the tenon is hollow, the wall thickness of the tenon is considerably thicker than the wall thickness of the ferrule.
("been known to break off with regularity").
That's a pretty strong statement, IMO. When the Gen2 shafts were first introduced, there was an issue with some ferrules becoming debonded because of a white pigment that was combined with the epoxy to hide the glue-line. This pigment compromised the bonding strength of the epoxy and consequently, a lot of the shafts with the pigmented epoxy suffered issues. This issue was identified and addressed almost immediately, but not before many of these shafts had gotten out into the world. Those shafts that showed this condition were dealt with on a case by case basis and it's my understanding that this was done free of charge to the consumer.
There very well may be some early-release Gen2 shafts with the pigmented epoxy that haven't shown any signs of debonding and my guess would be that if they don't have issues by now, they likely never will.
There is no expandable foam core. There is a 1/4 x 5" hollow at the front of the shaft that is filled with nothing. It's hollow.
The only foam to be found in the tenon is a small, thin 'foam pad' that is bonded to the entrance of the hollow to prevent anything from taking-up residence in the hollow.
Lol, "adding a real ferrrule". Predator ferrules are very real.
A lot of R&D has gone into their design and composition.
Front-end mass is the key to any L/D shaft. Adding a solid tenon and/or the use of another type ferrule mtrl. will add significantly to the front-end mass. This results in noticeably increased deflection, not to mention voiding the warranty.
It kind of defeats the purpose of having bought a low-deflection shaft.
I'm not trying to be critical here. I just have this need to correct mis-information when I see it.
It could be that I'm just getting lost in your chosen adjectives.
First, all Predator ferrules are capped.
The cap is btwn .200 & .250" thick depending on model.
("even thinner wood")?
While the tenon is hollow, the wall thickness of the tenon is considerably thicker than the wall thickness of the ferrule.
("been known to break off with regularity").
That's a pretty strong statement, IMO. When the Gen2 shafts were first introduced, there was an issue with some ferrules becoming debonded because of a white pigment that was combined with the epoxy to hide the glue-line. This pigment compromised the bonding strength of the epoxy and consequently, a lot of the shafts with the pigmented epoxy suffered issues. This issue was identified and addressed almost immediately, but not before many of these shafts had gotten out into the world. Those shafts that showed this condition were dealt with on a case by case basis and it's my understanding that this was done free of charge to the consumer.
There very well may be some early-release Gen2 shafts with the pigmented epoxy that haven't shown any signs of debonding and my guess would be that if they don't have issues by now, they likely never will.
There is no expandable foam core. There is a 1/4 x 5" hollow at the front of the shaft that is filled with nothing. It's hollow.
The only foam to be found in the tenon is a small, thin 'foam pad' that is bonded to the entrance of the hollow to prevent anything from taking-up residence in the hollow.
Lol, "adding a real ferrrule". Predator ferrules are very real.
A lot of R&D has gone into their design and composition.
Front-end mass is the key to any L/D shaft. Adding a solid tenon and/or the use of another type ferrule mtrl. will add significantly to the front-end mass. This results in noticeably increased deflection, not to mention voiding the warranty.
It kind of defeats the purpose of having bought a low-deflection shaft.
I'm not trying to be critical here. I just have this need to correct mis-information when I see it.
Z Shaft
Thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know and see. Do you & What would you charge for a repair like this? Thanks for the reply. Tony
Thank you, that's exactly what I needed to know and see. Do you & What would you charge for a repair like this? Thanks for the reply. Tony
Tony,
I did the pictured repair almost for free. The customer was let down by the
warranty statement which I though was not right, so I helped him out.
I have done several repairs of these shafts and the old ferrules seems to be
very "crispy", but I use Titan as replacement and none of the customers have
come back, so they must be happy
Have a look at that 314^2 repair I did, you would see KJ's white stuff "painted"
around the ferrule (it's not added in the epoxy, at least not on this) :
http://www.kendocues.com/Websted/314.html
I'll do the repair for free, but I'm living in Norway so you would be paying a lot for the S&H so if you are located in the US I would recommend KJ.
Kent