What MM shaft do you prefer?

Matt_24

Matt_24

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was speaking with a local champion about equipment this week and noticed that he, and many other A level players around here like a skinnier shaft (around 12mm) with a very long taper. I do as well (and I'm NOT an A level player by any stretch...more like a C-). I like my new SW cue, but I'm looking for a used SW shaft that is closer to a 12mm with a pro taper. This player said that he feels he has more control and can get more spin on the ball easier with a shaft like that. He is an A level player, and A+ level money player so his answer is highly qualified. I've played AZ's own, Lou Figeroa (also an A player) a few times and it seems like his Ginacue shafts are on the smaller side and have a nice long taper as well.

I've seen recent discussions on drawing the cue easier and deflection....but I think what is more important is having a shaft the size and taper that you enjoy. Everything else (deflection, etc) is easily figured out with some practice.

What do YOU prefer?
 
My current players (Ned Morris and Huebler) are around 12.7. The Ned Morris cue has a bit more taper, guessing 11-12" pro taper and the Huebler has a traditional 10" taper. I can't play with 13mm shaft, it feels like a log between my fingers.

600'sh Fargo for comparison.
 
12.4 shooting, 12.9 breaking.

But my opinion is worth what you paid. If I had to swear by one or the other, it would be the 12.9 for breaking.
 
I think it also depends on the size of your hands to be fair. I think if that shaft goes through smoothly and quickly (regardless of size) you can generate a lot of spin....but, like Chili said, if the shaft is huge and cumbersome...then you can't generate the kind of stroke you need.
 
I like 13MM to 12.75MM and a longer pro taper as well- ideally the first 14 inches from the tip somewhere around 12.75 for the first 14 inches. For me, stiffer shafts do present a bit more of a challenge- I admit to not having a pro level stroke- but seriously working on that as we speak.
 
David in FL said:
Me too. Amazing the difference that a mere .25 or so of a freaking millimeter makes!
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Agreed, I never really thought about the actual difference being so minor until a few years ago but yeah, I've got a couple of 13mm shafts and just can't use them.
 
It's personal for each player, yah gotta crawl before you walk in life. Like getting anything for the first time or second, you learn. I've always played with a 13mm maple shaft, but since going to ld shafts I decided to go smaller, stiffer was no longer needed to limit cue ball squirt. Now with my wooden ld shaft at 12.75 it's way stiffer in it's action/reaction to the cue ball, to ANY 13mm maple shaft of yesteryear.
 
One more observation. All of the A players I referenced use standard maple shafts tapered to their preferred dimensions. Justin Bergman plays around here and uses an OB shaft (his sponsor) to GREAT and AMAZING success.
 
Island Drive said:
It's personal for each player, yah gotta crawl before you walk in life. Like getting anything for the first time or second, you learn. I've always played with a 13mm maple shaft, but since going to ld shafts I decided to go smaller, stiffer was no longer needed to limit cue ball squirt. Now with my wooden ld shaft at 12.75 it's way stiffer in it's action/reaction to the cue ball, to ANY 13mm maple shaft of yesteryear.
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So you used a stiff shaft to reduce deflection? Can you elaborate on that, that's not how I understand it to work.
 
Matt_24 said:
One more observation. All of the A players I referenced use standard maple shafts tapered to their preferred dimensions. Justin Bergman plays around here and uses an OB shaft (his sponsor) to GREAT and AMAZING success.
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I wonder if that has something to do with their age and when they started playing. I started in the 80's and can't stand the new LD and/or CF shafts. I'm sure if I bought one and practiced I could get used to it and maybe even be a bit more consistent but it's a totally different game and I like my old school maple shafts.
 
I perfer 11.75 (Z2)... Never felt the need to go smaller. When I first started playing 'pool', I used a snooker cue. I would have to guess that it's tip was 10mm or smaller.

Currently playing with a 12.5 and it just doesn't feel right. I play fine with it, but it's just got the "different/uncomfortable" thing to it. It's bad enough that I ponied up the dough to buy a replacement for this 2mth old shaft, just to get down to 12mm. If that doesn't work out, I may start modifying
 
Chili Palmer said:
So you used a stiff shaft to reduce deflection? Can you elaborate on that, that's not how I understand it to work.
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The cloth was soooo different during the years of past, I'm sure that had Allot to do with it, but I'm not an expert on this discussion. Because I tapered off playing allot from the late 90's, and now I'm back at it. What I've found with my first/ever ld shaft it does have cue ball squirt low/way more than high cueing. Using follow....when I increase my swing speed, it's way less predictable than during my prime years with maple. Meaning there's not a gradual increase in cue ball squirt like a graph. I have a big swing and the point at which that/squirt moment happens on High follow shot, I'm still working on but it's different than with a low cue ball hit. With draw it's very predictable as I increase my swing speed let's say at a seven o'clock cue ball hit, but at an 11 o'clock hit it's not doing the same thing, probably because the cue ball is being forced downward into the play surface wiht the HR860 cloth. Maybe Fran will comment on this.
 
When I've built my current 62" cue I started with my 31" shaft at 12.5-12.6 mm. That is what I do like about wood you can start somewhere and than modify till you're happy about it.
So now I'm at 12.00 mm ... the deflection is lower now and I like the feel in my hands. When it comes to a tip size I don't see me going smaller.
 
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