What size/measurement piece of wood do I need?

[Retail1LO]

I wanted to know what size piece of wood typically needs to be started with when making both the handle and forearm section of a sneaky pete. Honestly, I don't know much about the process involved in selecting materials for the building of a cue...but I'm trying to learn so I can understand more about the procedure.
I'm in the process of purchasing some wood that I can send off to a yet unchosen cue maker to have put together to my specifictions. I'm finding it very rewarding to be involved in the process down to helping select the wood. Thanks very much for your help.

hayden.mccall@gmacmdirect.com

 

[J&D CUSTOMS]

sizes needed

See next post

 

[J&D CUSTOMS]

sizes needed

You will be at 1.260 to 1.245 usually in the butt area. The joint area will be .860 to .840 depending on maker of cue. We most generally start off with 1 1/2 inch pieces to do this. That way we can turn them to our size we use. So any thing 1 1/2 inches or bigger will work for most cuemakers.
Hope this helps you out in your decision.
Thanx,
Jim

 

[Mase]

I wanted to know what size piece of wood typically needs to be started with when making both the handle and forearm section of a sneaky pete. Honestly, I don't know much about the process involved in selecting materials for the building of a cue...but I'm trying to learn so I can understand more about the procedure.
I'm in the process of purchasing some wood that I can send off to a yet unchosen cue maker to have put together to my specifictions. I'm finding it very rewarding to be involved in the process down to helping select the wood. Thanks very much for your help.

hayden.mccall@gmacmdirect.com

If its the length of the wood that you are talking about, these are what I use. The piece for the forarm needs to be 13" and the piece for the handle needs to be 20". The handle that I use is a little longer than normal and you may get away with 18"

 

[Double-Dave]

I was told not too long ago by a cuemaker that for a sneaky pete butt section he needs two pieces of wood 26" long at least. That's 52 inches of wood for a 29-30" butt section.

gr. Dave

 

[Retail1LO]

You will be at 1.260 to 1.245 usually in the butt area. The joint area will be .860 to .840 depending on maker of cue. We most generally start off with 1 1/2 inch pieces to do this. That way we can turn them to our size we use. So any thing 1 1/2 inches or bigger will work for most cuemakers.
Hope this helps you out in your decision.
Thanx,
Jim

Thanks for the reply. So 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch....by how long?

 

[Retail1LO]

I was told not too long ago by a cuemaker that for a sneaky pete butt section he needs two pieces of wood 26" long at least. That's 52 inches of wood for a 29-30" butt section.

gr. Dave

Two pieces of wood just for the butt section? Do you happen to know why? What do I need for the forearm section? How long?

Also...in addition to the length...what are the other dimensions? 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch?

I imagine every piece of wood has the typical three dimensions for a rectangle....L, W, & H

 

[Retail1LO]

I got an email from Jenn Prather at Prather cues...and she said "Also, we don't generally use
the size of wood that is used in the spliced butts 1 1/2"
x 1 1/2" x 22"." This was in reference to her request that I supply my own pieces of ebony for the construction of the butt section of a sneaky pete. She stated they needed two pieces in case one piece didn't pan out.

 

[Double-Dave]

Two pieces of wood just for the butt section? Do you happen to know why? What do I need for the forearm section? How long?

Also...in addition to the length...what are the other dimensions? 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch?

I imagine every piece of wood has the typical three dimensions for a rectangle....L, W, & H

Sure you need two pieces of wood for the fore-arm. It's gonna be tough to make a full-splice sneaky with only one piece. If the fore-arm is supplied by Prather, then you only need one piece obviously. The dimensions for turning squares for cues are normally 1.5"x1.5" but that should only be considered a minimum. If you find a piece you really like that's bigger, that should not be a problem other than it will cost you more. Keep in mind I'm no cuemaker, just trying to help you out. Regarding the length, depending on who will make the butt section for you there will be different requirements. You write Prather only needs a 22" piece, while I was told by another maker he needs 26". Of course the shorter the piece, the shorter the points will be.

gr. Dave

 

[Retail1LO]

Sure you need two pieces of wood for the fore-arm. It's gonna be tough to make a full-splice sneaky with only one piece. If the fore-arm is supplied by Prather, then you only need one piece obviously. The dimensions for turning squares for cues are normally 1.5"x1.5" but that should only be considered a minimum. If you find a piece you really like that's bigger, that should not be a problem other than it will cost you more. Keep in mind I'm no cuemaker, just trying to help you out. Regarding the length, depending on who will make the butt section for you there will be different requirements. You write Prather only needs a 22" piece, while I was told by another maker he needs 26". Of course the shorter the piece, the shorter the points will be.

gr. Dave

Ok...so it'll effect the size of the point. I like long points. I should probably shoot for 26" then. So typically you need one piece for the butt...and one piece for the forearm. Two pieces total right?
I know Jenn at prather is asking two pieces just for the handle in the event something goes awry with one of the pieces.

 

[Arnot Wadsworth]

Long Splice/Sneaky Pete Cue Blanks

I wanted to know what size piece of wood typically needs to be started with when making both the handle and forearm section of a sneaky pete. Honestly, I don't know much about the process involved in selecting materials for the building of a cue...but I'm trying to learn so I can understand more about the procedure.
I'm in the process of purchasing some wood that I can send off to a yet unchosen cue maker to have put together to my specifictions. I'm finding it very rewarding to be involved in the process down to helping select the wood. Thanks very much for your help.

hayden.mccall@gmacmdirect.com

I start with a Bird's Eye Maple square that is 1.5 x 1.5 x 16 for the forearm and 1.5 x 1.5 x 26 for the Butt/Points section. Most sneaky petes are made from a 24 inch long butt section but a like a distance of 16 inches from the butt end of the cue to the start of the points. In my opinion it is more aesthetically pleasing to have a longer butt section. The length of this butt wood has nothing to do with the length of the points. The length of the points has to do with the taper that is cut into the forearm and the butt.

You should consider using the wood provided by the cuemaker because there is a very good chance that any wood you will acquire from a wood supplier is not ready to be used in a cue due to moisture content.

Good Cuemaking,

 

[Retail1LO]

I start with a Bird's Eye Maple square that is 1.5 x 1.5 x 16 for the forearm and 1.5 x 1.5 x 26 for the Butt/Points section. Most sneaky petes are made from a 24 inch long butt section but a like a distance of 16 inches from the butt end of the cue to the start of the points. In my opinion it is more aesthetically pleasing to have a longer butt section. The length of this butt wood has nothing to do with the length of the points. The length of the points has to do with the taper that is cut into the forearm and the butt.

You should consider using the wood provided by the cuemaker because there is a very good chance that any wood you will acquire from a wood supplier is not ready to be used in a cue due to moisture content.

Good Cuemaking,

Ok. Well...I'm working with Prather on this one...and the only thing she mentioned is that if I want an ebony butt...I would need to provide two pieces of my own wood. Here was the explanation I received:

"The deal with the Ebony is, that because of the
way Ebony is a little more brittle on sharp points,
we will make the spliced butt, however, we ask you
to supply the Ebony. We ask for 2 pieces in case
one doesn't work out for some reason, like chips, etc.
If we don't use the 2nd piece, we send it back. Because
the cost of Ebony is so high, if a customer really wants
one, then it's on their risk of 2 pieces. I hope you
understand about this. Also, we don't generally use
the size of wood that is used in the spliced butts 1 1/2"
x 1 1/2" x 22".
You can find hardwood suppliers online, maybe even
in your own area. It is important to use hardwoods
that have been dryed, either kiln vaccuum,
or air dried for some time."