What would be the correct or best rubber cussions for a 1920 Regina model Brunswick?

S

Shawn Vieths

New member
I'm looking at getting new cushions for my Regina model Brunswick. I was looking for input on the best rubber out there for durability and performance. Thanks in advance for your opinions.
 
Shawn Vieths said:
I'm looking at getting new cushions for my Regina model Brunswick. I was looking for input on the best rubber out there for durability and performance. Thanks in advance for your opinions.
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Some will say Artemis, some Kleber, some Superspeed.... I will suggest MBS. They are cheap, play very well, are easy to install, and should last as long as anything else.
 
rexus31 said:
Subrail bevel adjustment needed?
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I would suggest that the top of the sub-rail be straightened out, as it will likely be wavy (as is the case with most rails). From there, the angle won't be perfect, but it would be close enough for a K55 cushion. With the stock angle, the nose height will be slightly low. Probably even more so with an MBS cushion, as opposed to a Superspeed. However, with a T-Rail table, it's easy enough to shim the rails up slightly, if necessary. How far you go with a set of antique rails all depends on the condition of the wood that you're starting with. Often times, it's best to just cut the sub-rail off and start from scratch, but not always.
 
bradsh98 said:
I would suggest that the top of the sub-rail be straightened out, as it will likely be wavy (as is the case with most rails). From there, the angle won't be perfect, but it would be close enough for a K55 cushion. With the stock angle, the nose height will be slightly low. Probably even more so with an MBS cushion, as opposed to a Superspeed. However, with a T-Rail table, it's easy enough to shim the rails up slightly, if necessary. How far you go with a set of antique rails all depends on the condition of the wood that you're starting with. Often times, it's best to just cut the sub-rail off and start from scratch, but not always.
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Could they be machined/cut to reach the desire straightness? Machinists in the family so that terminology is more relatable, but willing to learn.
 
realkingcobra said:
The only way you can guarantee the consistent sub rail bevel, matched to the slate, is to bolt the rails to the slate, THEN recut the subrail bevel.
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Is this done with a hand plane and some sort of guide?

One of the tables (Dynamic II) at our small club has very dead rails and I'm thinking maybe I could do something about it when installing new cloth quite soon. The cushion nose height is 4cm (1.57"), but as of yet I have no idea what the subrail bevels are or which cushions it has for sure (stock is K55). What I have gathered so far is that the important factors are subrail thickness, bevel angle and that the body of the rubbers is correctly positioned behind the cushion nose.

I also have access to a carpenter friend and his shop which has all the big-boy woodworking machines. Maybe we could just cut the new bevels with a sliding table saw?
 
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