whats best break cue made?
- Thread starter CHAZ
- Start date
Answer:...........The Cue That's In Your Hands.....everything else about superior break results, scatter etc. is all bullshit.....and I own two break cues.......it's a façade.......the cue in your hands at the moment is the best friggin' cue in the world as long as the cue is straight and has a decent tip, then it's the best dam breaking cue in the world as far as I'm concerned.
What's really so much more important than the cue used for breaking is where my cue stroke contacts the cue ball and its resultant strike point on the specific object ball I was aiming to hit. If I take care of those two more important factors, then the cue I use becomes essentially irrelevant....and again, I own two break cues......BK2 & McDermott Stinger......it's really all a bunch of hype trying to sell cues when the cue is the least important element in the outcome of the break.
As long as the cue you break with is straight, has a decent tip and a weight you pleased with, that's all that matters IMO. I have tested my break and the break of others using my baseball radar gun and a variety of break cues and decent condition house cues. There's no difference in attained cue ball speed other than at most a 1 mph difference which is nothing versus hitting the exact contact point on the rack you intended to strike. The biggest difference was 2 mph speed and the rack scatter was just awful as the shooter stroked as hard as he could to achieve the fastest cue ball speed and he missed his intended contact point on the rack because of stroking the cue ball as hard as he could.
IMO......break cues are tremendously over-rated and aren't worth the investment.
What's really so much more important than the cue used for breaking is where my cue stroke contacts the cue ball and its resultant strike point on the specific object ball I was aiming to hit. If I take care of those two more important factors, then the cue I use becomes essentially irrelevant....and again, I own two break cues......BK2 & McDermott Stinger......it's really all a bunch of hype trying to sell cues when the cue is the least important element in the outcome of the break.
As long as the cue you break with is straight, has a decent tip and a weight you pleased with, that's all that matters IMO. I have tested my break and the break of others using my baseball radar gun and a variety of break cues and decent condition house cues. There's no difference in attained cue ball speed other than at most a 1 mph difference which is nothing versus hitting the exact contact point on the rack you intended to strike. The biggest difference was 2 mph speed and the rack scatter was just awful as the shooter stroked as hard as he could to achieve the fastest cue ball speed and he missed his intended contact point on the rack because of stroking the cue ball as hard as he could.
IMO......break cues are tremendously over-rated and aren't worth the investment.
I agree with Bavafongoul!! People think the cure to their ills is to buy their way out of it! I can break just as good with a house cue as I can with a $500 dollar break cue! The break is about speed and contact point! I see people with 25 ounce break cues and laugh. They think a heavier cue is going to make them break harder when it does the exact opposite. It actually slows down their break. Think about it what can you swing faster a 16 ounce hammer or a five pound one? Speed creates more inertia then weight. Inertia equals power!
I agree with all the above, I could break the balls with a house cue and still make anywhere between 1, 2 or more balls on the snap, on a good day.
Choice of break cue is all marketing and hype bullshit that is more cost and hassle than it is worth.
Keep it simple and focus on making sure your mechanics, stroke and aim is consistently accurate and then you will soon find out for yourself that you don't have to buy a custom break cue in order to have a good, consistent break shot.
Choice of break cue is all marketing and hype bullshit that is more cost and hassle than it is worth.
Keep it simple and focus on making sure your mechanics, stroke and aim is consistently accurate and then you will soon find out for yourself that you don't have to buy a custom break cue in order to have a good, consistent break shot.
break cue
That's some great info. I have focused more of my time in getting the most effective power out of my stroke on the rack and being consistent. I have spent a bunch of money trying the lastest and greatest equipment and haven't gotten the extra results for the money.this is just my opinion
That's some great info. I have focused more of my time in getting the most effective power out of my stroke on the rack and being consistent. I have spent a bunch of money trying the lastest and greatest equipment and haven't gotten the extra results for the money.this is just my opinion
I think the mechanics of one's break stroke and ability to control the explosive power we all lust for, but seldom consistently attain, are the key factors in determining the break results. Arguments are waged over light cue vs. heavy cue, velocity vs. mass, etc. these debates will never go away. The arguments are just a part of everyday pool life and will be around for decades to come.
Having said that, and having earlier posted that break cues are bullshit even though I confessed to owning two (2).....Yipes.......but it's all just a marketing façade. If you deliver your stroke without maximum, full exertion.......what I mean is you're not busting a nut to slam the rack as hard as you can.......and so you control the effort to say 90% effort.......you'll hit the object ball in the rack you're aiming for much more accurately and 90% power accurately applied is better than 110% power misapplied, i.e., wrong contact point.
Look at softball, baseball, golf....swing with all your might and you get pop-flys & foul balls or errant drives 310 yards out of bounds. Dial it down a bit in the power department and your have a more controlled swing and the results are amazingly better........the mechanics are more important than the amount of energy behind it.....Just what I learned from other sports and 50 years of pool playing.
Stroke the cue ball with less violence but with closer attention to where you're contacting the cue ball....say 1/2 -3/4 tip below center which is my favorite point to hit..... and very closely focus on where you want to strike the intended object ball in the rack, ex. full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4.....focus like it was a 6' long, difficult cut shot......do not take the shot for granted because it can determine the outcome of the match. This is the secret to a winning break shot and the piece of timber in your hand doesn't matter as long as it's equal to any straight, decent condition pool hall cue. Don't buy into the fairy tale that a break cue will improve your game.......it's not true but others will tell you about some time when they averaged 3 balls on the break with their new break cue.
Well, everyone remembers an amazing incident......Why?.....Because it rarely happens and that's why it's called amazing. But that same fellow will not do it again soon and if he does, then he could get the same results with a house cue......Why?......Because he's mastered the temptation and hits the cue ball with controlled violence and it strikes the rack exactly where he intended. The scatter of the balls becomes predictable and that's why pros make the 9 ball on the break in the side pocket so often. Their cue ball strikes the rack with amazing precision and the scatter of the object balls is amazingly consistent and very predictable. So trust me.....save your money and practice to improve your break mechanics and you'll definitely get better results.
Having said that, and having earlier posted that break cues are bullshit even though I confessed to owning two (2).....Yipes.......but it's all just a marketing façade. If you deliver your stroke without maximum, full exertion.......what I mean is you're not busting a nut to slam the rack as hard as you can.......and so you control the effort to say 90% effort.......you'll hit the object ball in the rack you're aiming for much more accurately and 90% power accurately applied is better than 110% power misapplied, i.e., wrong contact point.
Look at softball, baseball, golf....swing with all your might and you get pop-flys & foul balls or errant drives 310 yards out of bounds. Dial it down a bit in the power department and your have a more controlled swing and the results are amazingly better........the mechanics are more important than the amount of energy behind it.....Just what I learned from other sports and 50 years of pool playing.
Stroke the cue ball with less violence but with closer attention to where you're contacting the cue ball....say 1/2 -3/4 tip below center which is my favorite point to hit..... and very closely focus on where you want to strike the intended object ball in the rack, ex. full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4.....focus like it was a 6' long, difficult cut shot......do not take the shot for granted because it can determine the outcome of the match. This is the secret to a winning break shot and the piece of timber in your hand doesn't matter as long as it's equal to any straight, decent condition pool hall cue. Don't buy into the fairy tale that a break cue will improve your game.......it's not true but others will tell you about some time when they averaged 3 balls on the break with their new break cue.
Well, everyone remembers an amazing incident......Why?.....Because it rarely happens and that's why it's called amazing. But that same fellow will not do it again soon and if he does, then he could get the same results with a house cue......Why?......Because he's mastered the temptation and hits the cue ball with controlled violence and it strikes the rack exactly where he intended. The scatter of the balls becomes predictable and that's why pros make the 9 ball on the break in the side pocket so often. Their cue ball strikes the rack with amazing precision and the scatter of the object balls is amazingly consistent and very predictable. So trust me.....save your money and practice to improve your break mechanics and you'll definitely get better results.
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