whats the draw secret please

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elanobeone

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I am confused by the draw. Sometimes it works, sometimes it flops. There is some thing here I am missing. Can anybody share any keys or things they do that makes the draw scream back every time. Is there one thing you think of or try to do? Is there some hidden secret here I am missing nobody wants me to know about?
 
elanobeone said:
I am confused by the draw. Sometimes it works, sometimes it flops. There is some thing here I am missing. Can anybody share any keys or things they do that makes the draw scream back every time. Is there one thing you think of or try to do? Is there some hidden secret here I am missing nobody wants me to know about?

Follow through...but you already know that ;)
 
When I teach, I see people hitting the cue ball too high. You should be aiming at least 1 tip below center. Some people are afraid to hit the ball too low. As long as your stroke is straight and you follow through, you can hit the ball pretty low without a miscue.

Another thing I see is that some people lunge at the cue ball when they hit it. It could be very slight, but if you do, your tip will not it the cue ball where your practice strokes were aiming. If that is the case, your draw will be inconsistent. I have a friend who aims at the center of the ball and when he hits the cue ball, drops the tip down at the last second. His draw is inconsistent because of that.

Concentrate on hitting the cue ball exactly where you are aiming during the practice strokes. When you actually hit the cue ball, your eye should be on the object ball, not the cue ball. However, a few times during practice, try to keep your eye on the cue ball. Watch the tip contact the cue ball and push through it. This will help you contact the cue ball at the exact spot where you are aiming. Once you get used to this, try it while looking at the object ball (where you should be looking during a game).

Another thing that will help you get consistent draw is to use the diamonds to practice. Try lining up a straight shot down the rail where the CB and OB are 1 diamond apart. Try drawing back between 1 and 1.5 diamonds. Keep doing this. Eventually you will get good at it so you can do it almost every time. Then vary how much you want to pull the cue ball back (maybe 2 diamonds for the next drill). Also vary the distance between the CB and OB.

I hope this helps.

Andy Segal
 
It's all in the stroke baby it's all in the stroke. You'd be suprise how low you can go wit ha smooth stroke. Also I experimented with my stroke and now it's change. I don't even hit the cue ball low any more..i hit it just below center, it's really close to the center and i can pull it back a full table...i was suprise.
 
In addition to follow-through...keep the cue level. Don't jack it up like you see many ball bangers do.

How do you actually achieve follow-through? Imagine shooting the cue through the cueball. That helps. And, after you stroke the ball, hold your pose for a moment to see where you ended up. This is often called staying down on the shot. It helps ensure you stroke well, and it also allows you to evaluate how your stroke finished.

cheers,
jer9ball
 
All of the above...plus CONFIDENCE in your shot. Visualise the draw. If you are scared you will miscue, you will miscue, or you will do something else that will affect the shot, such as not hitting it low, not following through (pulling out of the shot too early), lunging the body, lifting the body..etc etc

CONFIDENCE... trust yourself and the equipment
 
The Sectret is:...drumroll....HIT IT LOW!

Very basic and most here have said that. When I'm coaching peopleto draw, it's amazing how hard it is to get them to hit it low. I tell them when the start miscueing under the ball, then they are getting near the point the should be hitting. They will hita hundred stun shots before they'll miscue under a ball.

People are just scared to hit off centre!!! Hot low baby...learn how low you can go...then find a comfort zone, where you can get plenty of spin without too much force.

Other Tips:
Don't jack up...bridge low, cue flat and low.
Chalk the edges of the tip of your cue...chalk it good now!

As for stroke...smooth is good for control, but the cue-ball only knows this:
  • Point of impact
    Effective mass of impact object
    Direction of momentum from impact object
    Speed of impact object
    Grip with impact object

Poke, jab, swoop, deccellerate, loose grip, firm grip, whatever, you can still get good draw if you hit it low!
 
Think about the acceleration of the cue through the ball. Don't stab at the ball, but allow the cue to go smoothly through the ball as though it wasnt there. Try drawing the ball with a slower stroke by stroking as smoothly as possible.

Something that has helped me immensely with every stroke shot is developing a stroke (duh!). For a while I had a stroke that looked and felt very loose but was not powerful. I realized that I was mistaking imprecision for looseness, and basically had a crappy stroke. My wrist would wobble from side to side as would my arm. Once I learned to stroke only from the elbow on down and control for any lateral wrist motion, my power draws became golden.

One way to know how you are stroking the ball is the feedback from the cue, this is something that is standard fare for good players but many beginners have no idea of the concept. Practice shooting in a half-table length straight-in stun shot at moderate speed. If you are putting a good stroke on the ball, the cue will feel slightly stiff and you will feel the impact of the tip on the cueball reverbrate through your arm. If you hit it with a crappy stroke, some other part of your body will absorb the force of the hit, such as your shoulder or wrist, and you will get a soft hit with no communication. A good hit will also cause the cueball speed to be faster with a seemingly slower stroke. I can even hear the difference in hits between a good stroke and a crappy one with my cue (a joss), but I am not sure if that is universal. When I put a good stroke on the ball I feel as though I can hear and feel the joint compress under the force of the hit, even on softer hits. Once you are able to get a nice crisp hit with a center ball stroke consistently, try drawing the ball, you should be able to get more draw with less stroke. If you hit extremely low you can also hear the difference in stroke, it will sound almost as though you are miscuing but you will get a clean hit.
 
i agree with keep it level and follow through......i disagree with its the stroke.....ive see horrible stokes that could draw the ball with great consistency and accuracy and then guys that have the sweetest stoke couldnt draw the cue ball with a pencil and paper......juston coleman
 
elanobeone said:
I am confused by the draw. Sometimes it works, sometimes it flops. There is some thing here I am missing. Can anybody share any keys or things they do that makes the draw scream back every time. Is there one thing you think of or try to do? Is there some hidden secret here I am missing nobody wants me to know about?

Some good pointers already posted here. For me a light grip is the key and staying down (still) on the shot.I lot of people aim low on the cue ball during their patactice stroke and then lift up on the delivery on draw shots more so than any other shot I've seen.When they lift they don't contact the cue ball low.Also a light grip work wonders for me on follow through draws.Dont grip down on the cue on cue ball impact , just let it go following through with a straight stroke and no wrist twist.

Other than follow through draw, I also use a snap draw where you snap into the cue ball and pull back at impact.I'm sorry if I didn't explain this one correctly because I'm better at shooting it than explaining it.

Anyways , try lighting up your grip and stay still with no head movement when shooting draw shots. Good luck.
 
oh no no, no hit low dude.

Colin Colenso said:
The Sectret is:...drumroll....HIT IT LOW!

Very basic and most here have said that. When I'm coaching peopleto draw, it's amazing how hard it is to get them to hit it low. I tell them when the start miscueing under the ball, then they are getting near the point the should be hitting. They will hita hundred stun shots before they'll miscue under a ball.

People are just scared to hit off centre!!! Hot low baby...learn how low you can go...then find a comfort zone, where you can get plenty of spin without too much force.

Other Tips:
Don't jack up...bridge low, cue flat and low.
Chalk the edges of the tip of your cue...chalk it good now!

As for stroke...smooth is good for control, but the cue-ball only knows this:
  • Point of impact
    Effective mass of impact object
    Direction of momentum from impact object
    Speed of impact object
    Grip with impact object

Poke, jab, swoop, deccellerate, loose grip, firm grip, whatever, you can still get good draw if you hit it low!


Colin, one of the first things you will see on my new DVD on the secrets of the draw or screw revealed is I will hit a cue ball in the exact center on the equator and draw it table length, so much for the theory of you must hit it very low. I then go even higher up on the ball above center on a pique and draw the ball two table lengths. You boys are in for a bit of a flush when this hits, expect to be dashed. Ta Ta, toot ta loo. :D
 
One thing that is quite important which could be hard to imagine for a novice is to let the cue do all the work. It's not your arm that draws the ball, it's the cue that does it for you.
 
Colin Colenso said:
Poke, jab, swoop, deccellerate, loose grip, firm grip, whatever, you can still get good draw if you hit it low!

I would disagree with that. I've never seen anyone who can draw any significant distance with a poke stroke.

If you don't follow through or even worse pull your arm back, your tip will not have much speed at the point of impact with the cue ball. This basically means that the cue ball's backspin will severely decrease over large distance, say 6 or 7 diamonds. All of this results in a pathetic draw, if any.

Trust me...I've been there!
 
amateur said:
I would disagree with that. I've never seen anyone who can draw any significant distance with a poke stroke.

If you don't follow through or even worse pull your arm back, your tip will not have much speed at the point of impact with the cue ball. This basically means that the cue ball's backspin will severely decrease over large distance, say 6 or 7 diamonds. All of this results in a pathetic draw, if any.

Trust me...I've been there!

I perhaps should have qualified my remarks.

A poke shot will not develop the cue speed as a full stroke, yet a poke can draw a ball a full table length if cue ball it near to the object ball.

Also, if a cue decellerates from 20mph to 15mph before hitting the cue ball, all the cue ball knows is that is was hit with x momentum. And momentum only accounts for velocity, not accelleration.

I recommend neither for big draw or even consisitant draw. I was just pointing out that according to physics and my experience, that hitting low is the most important factor in getting backspin on the cue ball.

To get maximum cue ball rotation rate v speed (important for holding angle on angled draw shots) a loose grip and lighter cue can help. SOme will argue with the loose grip as they say the skin is so elastic, it cannot add to the effective weight of the cue. My experience finds this hard to agree with.

For Larry's method, I cannot grasp any way he can do it. It appears to defy the theories on billiard physics put forth by Gustav Coriolis centuries ago.

If the cue tip ducked down into the ball, it could strike it above centre and still impart backspin theoretically. That's my best guess to explain what he means, but getting huge draw from this action seems impossible.

Of course, a raised but, masse style shot can achieve this. I need to see or get a deeper explanation to understand Larry's concept.

btw: Gustav Coriolis is the guy that explained the trade winds around the earth and the way water spins in different rotations when going down a plug hole in the northern and southern hemispheres. He also wrote a book on billiards...in French only I believe. Le Phisiques de je billiard...or something like that. Robert Byrne has a diagram of it in his book Advanced Pool.

Still Coriolis' theory makes some assumption of perfect grip between cue and cue ball and also no loss of energy through cloth friction. However, his theory is a good guide to learning to shoot accurate masse shots.
 
mjantti said:
One thing that is quite important which could be hard to imagine for a novice is to let the cue do all the work. It's not your arm that draws the ball, it's the cue that does it for you.
MJ, you hit it on the head.
In fact, if you just throw the cue, the cb will draw enough.
 
fast larry said:
Colin, one of the first things you will see on my new DVD on the secrets of the draw or screw revealed is I will hit a cue ball in the exact center on the equator and draw it table length, so much for the theory of you must hit it very low. I then go even higher up on the ball above center on a pique and draw the ball two table lengths. You boys are in for a bit of a flush when this hits, expect to be dashed. Ta Ta, toot ta loo. :D
My friend hits it center ball too and i was suprise at how much back spin he has...that cue ball goes wild with spin....i tried his technique and it works, i used to hit the cue ball low (tip touching the cloth) but now i hit it close to center and i get more spin now. Al i had to do was level the cue and have a pendulum stroke.
 
Cardinal_Syn said:
My friend hits it center ball too and i was suprise at how much back spin he has...that cue ball goes wild with spin....i tried his technique and it works, i used to hit the cue ball low (tip touching the cloth) but now i hit it close to center and i get more spin now. Al i had to do was level the cue and have a pendulum stroke.

The secret is out
Now there's no reason for anyone to buy Larry's video :D
 
Cardinal_Syn said:
All i had to do was level the cue and have a pendulum stroke.

I am just courious is the pendulum stroke different from a normal stroke and if so how is it? My stroke is very fluid and smooth and my draw is just below center maybe a half tip at the most and i control the ball pretty well.
 
twiztid_cue said:
I am just courious is the pendulum stroke different from a normal stroke and if so how is it? My stroke is very fluid and smooth and my draw is just below center maybe a half tip at the most and i control the ball pretty well.


Oh this DVD is going to be a barn burner because so far a lot of these posts are dead ass wrong. Some of you got part of it but are off on other parts. This is why I am doing this project, to help you all, not argue with you all on this. When you follow my technique, all of your draws will improve, so what is to fight with about that? Where did you guys get all of this bad information. Relax, the truth is finally coming to you at last. Fast will lead you all out of the wilderness of mis information.
 
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