Tip centering tools are only useful if your tailstock and headstock are in great alignment. Edge Technology makes a tool for doing this. I tried to eyeball the alignment but never got the alignment correct. The best $50 I‘ve ever spent on my lathe. If you have a friend to lend you the tool, you’re way ahead. I now use my Edge tool only to check alignment before a critical repair such as a new tenon.Are you talking about a concave live center, Everyone sells them Pather, cueman, or atlas? Also, i don't really think they will center your tip, i just eyeball the tip and use that to put presssure on it until the glue sets up
I have to say it wasn't my idea a cuemakers here suggested this when I setup my lathe works great i don't use any tip alignment tool.For alignment of my headstock and tailstock I use a steel bar cost me $8
That's what coaxial indicators are for.Tip centering tools are only useful if your tailstock and headstock are in great alignment. Edge Technology makes a tool for doing this. I tried to eyeball the alignment but never got the alignment correct. The best $50 I‘ve ever spent on my lathe. If you have a friend to lend you the tool, you’re way ahead. I now use my Edge tool only to check alignment before a critical repair such as a new tenon.
There's a time to drill and a time to bore. When really accurate is the goal boring is the chosen method. If you rely on drilling a coax indicator is your best friend. I'd bet at least half of the guys on here with edge finders use then wrong,,,Looks more complicated than using the Edge tool, 2 dead centers and a dial indicator. But I guess we use what works for us. The bottom line; you must align your tailstock with the headstock to simplify installing new tips or ferrules. Repairing a broken tenon is pretty difficult if the lathe is out of alignment.
May have been you who suggested the edge to me but yeah it works great. Assuming my dial indicator is consistent I can zero the head stock and tailstock out in about 5 mins, if even that longLooks more complicated than using the Edge tool, 2 dead centers and a dial indicator. But I guess we use what works for us. The bottom line; you must align your tailstock with the headstock to simplify installing new tips or ferrules. Repairing a broken tenon is pretty difficult if the lathe is out of alignment.
Those are great for centering. But these finger type indicators aren't accurate for measuring sizes or for calcing runout. Just think about the long needle compared to the short one. Obviously the long needle is going to respond to the slightest size difference whereas the short will take a bit to move. There's just no way to have those different lengths give the same readingsThat's what coaxial indicators are for.
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Two entirely different measuring devices with distinctly different purposes. Renegade was correct in stating a coaxial indicator was the right tool for the job being discussed.Those are great for centering. But these finger type indicators aren't accurate for measuring sizes or for calculating runout. Just think about the long needle compared to the short one. Obviously the long needle is going to respond to the slightest size difference whereas the short will take a bit to move. There's just no way to have those different lengths give the same readings
To measure sizes or runout you need a plunge type indicator.
I'm sure a lot of people know this, just sharing for those who may not.
Correct. Hope what I said didn't come off as stating that he was wrong. I love my Co-axial, sure easier to swing than a Best-Test.Two entirely different measuring devices with distinctly different purposes. Renegade was correct in stating a coaxial indicator was the right tool for the job being discussed.