Why glue the cloth to the table?

JoeW

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Why and how do installers glue the table cloth?

Several web sites offer Elmer's glue for use when installing table cloth. I have replaced my Simonis 860 about four times on a 9' GC III and the rail cloth about twice. It seems to be reasonably tight though it is best to wait a day and re-tighten.

Why do installers use glue on the six inch edge of the table? Does it make it easier to install? Does it make the cloth hold better? When I place new cloth on my table the old cloth seems to be tight: There are no rips in the cloth where the staples have been inserted. I tend to staple about every 1.25 inches and the cloth has always been tight when replaced so I do not understand the reason for the glue. However, if it makes the table that much better I will use it next time I place new cloth on the table (in a week or so).

How is this glue installed? I use Elmer's Adhesive (bought from Wal-Mart) that appears to be the same as what is advertised on the billiards sites. When I make the mechanical ball cleaner I spray the wood and the terrycloth fabric per the directions on the can. This allows about one minute of work time before the glue sets up. I suppose that when gluing a new cloth it would have to be glued in sections. Is this correct?

Incidentally, my mechanical ball cleaners have been well received by the 10+ people who have purchased them. Apparently everyone who bought one is happy or more than happy. The polisher is currently being used in a couple of commercial places and here too it has been well received.

I do not have a patent or anything like that on the cleaners and will send the plans to AZB members for no charge. Send me your email address and be able to receive about a 1.5 MB file is all that is required. There are many photos in the plans.

It costs about $30.00 in supplies to make a machine the way I make it. Costs could be reduced with less expensive materials. It takes about one day to make one. It takes about three days to make eight or ten. I sell them for $159.00 plus $25.00 shipping. You can sell for whatever you choose and do not need to acknowledge my design. In fact, you might want to add your own style. The basic idea is sound and the machines will last a lifetime.

This could be a good source of income for some of the table mechanics who are inclined. The usual wood shop skills and tools are needed. Here is a link to my web site for those who might be interested in augmenting their income.

http://www.sunburstselect.com/PBReview/PaStore.htm
 
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Asthetically it looks better, structurally, it will make your wood backing last longer by not having years of holes poked through it.
No rips or tears, tighter play, and increased durability of wood parts.
 
some tables dont have wood backed slate...
i used to have a brunswick classic that had unbacked slate so i had to glue the cloth down.
all the vally and dynamo tables i have seen are unbacked and glued on.
that is why i glued other than staple.
now it seems gluing is the way to go instead of stapling
i hope this helped
scott
 
I always use glue AND staples. Kind of like wearing a belt and suspenders. If you look at a table that has staples only you will notice that after a while the edges of the cloth look like waves on the ocean. If the cloth is glued the entire length the weave of the cloth will stay straight. The staples hold things in place 'til the glue grabs. This allows a tighter, straighter stretch.
 
P.S. I have never heard of using Elmers. Seems like it might be a problem down the road as it needs a porous surface to grab and once it's there the surface is no longer porous. How about spray adhesive or roll on contact cement instead.
 
Thanks guys. The waves in the table bottom makes sense. Looks like glue and staples are the way to go. And yes I better get the other stuff that sticks to slate.:eek:
 
glue

Scotch grip neutral 10. I wish other companies would use this on rubber for rail replacements. I have never had one come loose.
Ron
 
glue

Scotch grip neutral 10.Use this for cloth and rubber replacement. I wish others would.
Ron
 
JoeW said:
Thanks guys. The waves in the table bottom makes sense. Looks like glue and staples are the way to go. And yes I better get the other stuff that sticks to slate.:eek:
Glue correctly and you won't need any staples.
3M-10 ScotchGrip has the best hold. 3M-77 or 90 is a close second.
Both are contact adhesives.
 
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Hello Joe:
3m77 is what we have been using for years and it holds really well.
Make sure you put it on both cloth and table. Just a light spray on the cloth. Make sure you cover cloth with paper to catch overspray.
PS I love the design of the ball cleaner you sent us. Email me the plans at mr8ball@comcast.net Thanks again
Ron
 
Dartman said:
Glue correctly and you won't need any staples.
3M-10 ScotchGrip has the best hold. 3M-77 or 90 is a close second.
Both are contact adhesives.


Would you be willing to elaborate on the correct process? (simonis)

I have read a basic process but have a suspision that there is a better process for glueing.
 
Mr Penguin said:
P.S. I have never heard of using Elmers. Seems like it might be a problem down the road as it needs a porous surface to grab and once it's there the surface is no longer porous. How about spray adhesive or roll on contact cement instead.

I believe the "Elmers" that is refered to is Elmers brand of spray adhesive (which is very much like Super 77). :smile:
 
BRKNRUN said:
Would you be willing to elaborate on the correct process? (simonis)

I have read a basic process but have a suspision that there is a better process for glueing.

I've seen people simply glue the slate edge with 77 or 90 and slap the cloth on.
You get better adhesion using it as a contact cement - IOW gluing the cloth and slate, give it 2-3 minutes to dry then apply cloth to slate.
 
Dartman said:
I've seen people simply glue the slate edge with 77 or 90 and slap the cloth on.
You get better adhesion using it as a contact cement - IOW gluing the cloth and slate, give it 2-3 minutes to dry then apply cloth to slate.


Ha...that is what I get for asking vage questions...I should have been more clear in my question...Thanks for answering what I did ask...

What I meant to ask is what are the correct glue points? In what order?

I would be using the 3M-10 for sure.

It would seem there would be an ideal way of stretching processes that eliminates wrinkles and results in a more even stretch of the cloth.

I have read a couple desciptions of the process but they did not have much detail so here is what I have determined so far

  • lay cloth on table square
  • tack one rail of one side pocket.
  • cloth laying flat but loose on table snap a chalk line 3" from the opposite side
  • snap a chalk line 1.75" from each end
  • on the same side as tacked side pocket tack the corner pocket (on the end rail) using the end chalk line as a guide for stretch
  • glue from tacked side pocket toward the corner pocket (no side strech) only stretching toward end to make cloth smooth
  • repeat for other corner pocket on the same side
  • tack other side pocket (one rail) (using chalk line as stretch guide)
  • pull cloth diagonal to center of untacked corner stretching using side and end rail chalk lines as guide for amount of strech.
  • tack corner and repeat for other untacked corner
  • with a roller apply glue inbetween (by pulling cloth away) and/or on top of untacked side rail and end rails.

Trim excess below slate bed once dried.

Seems like this would Produce an even strech and if there was any bunching it would be in the pocket area that could be stretched glued and trimmed.

Is this close or is there a much easier way?
 
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