Whyte Carbon Shafts

I don't like the insert idea. I just see it coming loose/making sounds at some point.
Had a friend's OB Carbon shaft do just that. The insert came loose, it was making noise & was completely unplayable. Luckily a quick tightening by a Torx key did the trick to fix. Otherwise it would have had to be sent back to OB.
 
Had a friend's OB Carbon shaft do just that. The insert came loose, it was making noise & was completely unplayable. Luckily a quick tightening by a Torx key did the trick to fix. Otherwise it would have had to be sent back to OB.
Add another item to the pool case.
 
Late to the conversation. I've been playing with an OB cf for the last year (I like it), and yes the insert did come loose. It manifested itself as a sound similar to a cracked shaft. I resolved the issue with a drop of Loctite 242. It has not come loose since (about 9 months now).

The insert does screw into a threaded insert, so if you go the Loctite route you will back the threaded inset out upon removal, it's a recoverable situation - but does defeat the purpose of the insert. Recommend only doing Loctite if you're handy with tools and confident in not boogering threads.
 
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A couple weeks ago in a team tournament I played against a guy that had one. His was the one that looked like it had woodgrain, and I think it was a break cue. Actually, the two other guys used it for breaking too. We laughed that there was more grain than a real shaft would have, but reading here it might be an "ash" grain, so who knows. Didn't sound different, and didn't do anything magical for their breaking either.
Not much of a help, I know, but they are out there.
 
Had a friend's OB Carbon shaft do just that. The insert came loose, it was making noise & was completely unplayable. Luckily a quick tightening by a Torx key did the trick to fix. Otherwise it would have had to be sent back to OB.

I can second the insert coming loose, I just got an OB shaft and it came a bit loose, tightened it, was loose again in 3-4 games. It will need some thread lock (I am planning on using the blue medium strength stuff) and possibly something around the outside of the insert sides as well (going to try some sticky something that does not harden if I can find something that does not leave a mess) since the design is the thing just dropping in place and being held in at the end by the screw. It probably would have worked better being threaded around the perimeter like a threaded bumper works.
 
Late to the conversation. I've been playing with an OB cf for the last year (I like it), and yes the insert did come loose. It manifested itself as a sound similar to a cracked shaft. I resolved the issue with a drop of Loctite 242. It has not come loose since (about 9 months now).

The insert does screw into a threaded insert, so if you go the Loctite route you will back the threaded inset out upon removal, it's a recoverable situation - but does defeat the purpose of the insert. Recommend only doing Loctite if you're handy with tools and confident in not boogering threads.
Not the normal but it has happened.
 

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Friend in our league just got Whyte CF shaft, with radial and 3/8-10M inserts. He has custom cue butts (4 from same maker) which all have '3/8-10 Modified' pins but they are all about 2 thou over on both major and minor thread diameter, when compared to the stainless steel pins I had in my drawer. Three of the custom butt joint pins are G10 and one is black anodized? powder-coated? aluminum. None of them would go all the way into the Whyte 3/8-10M adapter. I had stainless versions of both original thread 3/8-10 pins and modified thread versions, and they all fit the Whyte adapter perfectly. Whyte says they will void warranty on the whole SHAFT (not just the insert??) if your cue butt has an aluminum pin. I'm scratching my head on that warning...
 
Friend in our league just got Whyte CF shaft, with radial and 3/8-10M inserts. He has custom cue butts (4 from same maker) which all have '3/8-10 Modified' pins but they are all about 2 thou over on both major and minor thread diameter, when compared to the stainless steel pins I had in my drawer. Three of the custom butt joint pins are G10 and one is black anodized? powder-coated? aluminum. None of them would go all the way into the Whyte 3/8-10M adapter. I had stainless versions of both original thread 3/8-10 pins and modified thread versions, and they all fit the Whyte adapter perfectly. Whyte says they will void warranty on the whole SHAFT (not just the insert??) if your cue butt has an aluminum pin. I'm scratching my head on that warning...
Sounds pretty stupid.
Joint screws vary in size.
 
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